I have been working on an 87 for the last few months. (pics coming soon) My lockers came in this week and i started to tackle the job.  The rear end had so much mud sand and water in it i decided to not only add the lockers but rebuild the 3rd member.  There is a local shop that will do the work if i bring them both 3rd members but i have to bring the parts too.  I was wondering what gears i should go with if i plan on running the stock 1.3 with 35 inch tires?  The biggest ive seen is like 5.38s.  Also where can i get the rebuild kit for the 3rd?  And would that rebuild kit come with the pinion gear nut as i messed the threads up taking it apart. Also while i am in there should i add anything to make it stronger? Ive got just the stock axles. Any help would be much appreciated as this is my first go at this.....

35's on stock axles is asking for trouble save your money for Toyota axles  but if you want to gear then 5.12 gears are cheep and easy to find but you will need to re-gear the t-case too

I agree with fordguy79 that's a lot of tire for Zuk but if you do it and it works cool. As for the nut when you get rebuild kits you get a new nut too it has to be replaced because you have to put the indent in the nut to lock it in to place in the shaft.
some sites to look at for the kit

http://www.roadlessgear.com/page/RGL/PROD/DD/YGA101

http://www.rocky-road.com/samurai-differential.html

http://www.petroworks.com/drivetrain-differentials.php

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/differentials/suzuki-samurai-sidekick-differential-master-rebuild-install-kits.html

http://www.trail-gear.com/samurai-ring-and-pinion-gears

Thanks guy!  Why would i need to change the tcase gears if i am changing both dif gears?  I dont quite understand......

To turn that large of a tire you need more help from the T-case gearing, diff gears are just not enough for a stock 1.3 running that big of a tire. Even if you do swap the axles you should help that T-case with lower gearing. You have to remember that an engine has a certain area of RPM that it functions best at and you want to gear it so that you stay in that target area. The diff gears on the market don't go low enough to do it alone and you could burn your clutch out, if it does hook up you will just bog down the engine to much to get the needed power to spin the tires.
 
Also I don't know where you live or what you will be doing with your Zuk but if you ever drive it on road you need the gears for road speeds and if in snow or mud you need to have the power to spin the tires clean once in a while.

William

You need a 26 spline front 3rd from a 96 Kick for the rear and have to add cans.

For the front 3rd you will need a 22 spline front 3rd from a late model Kick as depicted below ....

Here is a list to help you find the models with the correct splines and gears.

89     2dr 1.3L carb 5speed man. 5.625
89-95 2dr 1,6L TBI 5speed man. 5.125
89-95 2dr 1,6L TBI 3speed auto. 4.625
91      4dr 1.6L TBI 3speed auto. 4.625
91      4dr 1.6L TBI 5speed man. 5.375
92-98 4dr 1.6L MPFI 5speed man. 5.125
92-98 4dr 1.6L MPFI 3speed auto. 4.30
92-98 4dr 1.6L MPFI 4speed auto. 5.125
94-98 2dr 1.6L MPFI 5speed man. 5.125
94-98 2dr 1.6L MPFI 3speed auto. 4.30
94-98 2dr 1.6L MPFI 4speed auto. 5.125
96-98 X90 1.6L MPFI auto or man. 4.625

4.625 gears have an 8/37 tooth count
4.30 gears have an 10/43 tooth count
5.125 gears have an 8/41 tooth count
5.375 gears have an 8/43 tooth count
5.625 gears have an 8/45 tooth count

You don't have to buy the transfer case gears but they are the best bang for the buck. I just bought a 6:5:1 with an updated rear output shaft for mine yesterday.

This should give me the low end grunt I wanted and return the highway speed to 65 -70 if I chose to run the 34's down the highway that fast.  

I'm gonna run it with the stock gears 1st and see how it goes. If I want a lil more grunt I will change to the 5:12's. I found a set in a U Pull It for $60.00 a piece they are 96 & 94 front 3rds.

Here is a good read article about 3rds and transfer case gearing. Keep in mind it is kinda written as a CYA but the meat of the article pretty much holds true...

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:gears&catid=36:techinfo&Itemid=60

Here is an article that will help you better understand what you need for your 3rds...

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:gears&catid=36:techinfo&Itemid=60

                                                                Miss Me Yet.....     Tux...


                                                                                  

 

Help me out here ...I'm trying to understand why any one would want 35s on a Samurai in the first place.
 But if you must...All of the above advise will work but you will still be at the MAX LOAD of these axles.
You will need 12" of proper lift just to keep from stuffing the tires Unless you dove tail the hell out of the Sammy.
So plan on 4 link, re gear everything Transfer case and axles. New transfercase mount, tranny straps , Drive lines , etc. etc.
 If your gonna spend that kind of cash I recommend 44s front and rear. Curry axles, or the equivalent, and a v6, tranny (a 176 would do fine, a transfercase (D-18/ D 20/ or D-300)  That way you will have enough grunt to turn the massive amount of rotating mass that the 35s require.
I'm running 33x12.50x15s with 7" of lift and am able to stuff them at will now.......

Lol.... I remember when my dad asked me that question about 32's under a Dodge Power Wagon.... my answer was because I wanted too.

Why would you want to run 33"s under your instead of 30's? 30's are big enuff....

I run 34's under mine and love em. I wouldn't trade em for anything less. It's a matter of preference. It's a matter of what a person wants their rig to be. It's a matter of what you want to do withit and what you expect from it.

It's not really a matter for other folks to question why. We should be here to help and add insight on how to get someone to where they want to be.

Think outside the box...... Dare To Be different.....  

By the way.... I really like your ride! pretty Sweet!!!

                                                      Just My Opinion... Tux...

You need a 26 spline front 3rd from a 96 Kick for the rear and have to add cans.

For the front 3rd you will need a 22 spline front 3rd from a late model Kick

If he is having just the gears put in samurai thirds, it makes no difference if the trackick thirds are 22 or 26 spline (the samurai carrier and samurai sidegears will be used).

Ranger your right.... Doughboy gave William some good link info earlier.... I had talked to William before in previous emails about the 3rds and just went and posted the info I had in case others were looking.

Boxcar did you make your cage or have it made? And are you able to get your top of easily? 

Help me out here ...I'm trying to understand why any one would want 35s on a Samurai in the first place.
 But if you must...All of the above advise will work but you will still be at the MAX LOAD of these axles.
You will need 12" of proper lift just to keep from stuffing the tires Unless you dove tail the hell out of the Sammy.
I'm running 33x12.50x15s with 7" of lift and am able to stuff them at will now.......

I can clear 37" tires with only 5" of lift.  I do have the fenders trimmed up a bit though.    As for why run 35's, it's because I have run into a few tire size obstacles that simple need larger tires to climb up.  So go bigger to get over them. 

That being said, I am in the process of building a Tracker on 33's.  Just not doing rocks as much as I used to.

Not trying to hijack this thread ....Yes I built it , and yes the top slides out the back....
 Clearing and being able to wheel the tires without stuffing them ( making contact with the fenders springs and frame) are two different stories....
I think at this point pictures are required....
 I get the "cause I want them" statement.... We used to say " Go big or go home " I'm allot older and wiser now...
Just trying to save him some HUGE $$$$$$$$.
After 35 years in the business I've built everything from monster trucks to rock buggies... And have come to the conclusion that
If you want BIG start BIG....Boxcar... Owner ----Resurrection Iron Works.
PS: I love the Sammy format . That's why I own one..And spent the time and money to build one. But it's not the only rig I wheel..
 

Clearing and being able to wheel the tires without stuffing them ( making contact with the fenders springs and frame) are two different stories....
I think at this point pictures are required....

When borrowing Moonzuki's tires with clearance to the fenders with RUF and SPOA in front and 4-link rear.    I can even take another 2" out of the front fenders if I need the space, just bringing the outside of the fenders even with the inner fenderwell.  Moonzuki fits them without the fender trimming on his fully linked SJ.

That being said, for a lot of people 31" tires are the breaking point and 33" tires are hard to keep axles together with.  With the chromoly front axles you should be able to run 35" tires without worry, but for the rear the only real option is custom rear axles.  At that point, as others have pointed out, it might be better to just buy some different axles and build them up from the start so your not committed to the SJ drive-train.  But if you can get an ARB cheap from someone else who upgraded, it's hard to walk away from them. 

You will need another 2" ++ out of the  fenders for Clarence. Especially SPOAd  and linked (big articulation)
Great Sammy and a nice shop to build in ..Me likey...
 We run chrome molly axles,  trusses and 512s when setting a Sammy up for 33s.
Like I sed earlyer ...Just whip out that wallet....Boxcar...