Well, I'm torn at the moment. Are the OME struts/shocks really worth the money for a daily driver on 30s? I don't want to buy monroes and have to replace them in six months, but they are 1/3 the price. 

Is the ride and quality really THAT much better?

Can monroes handle GV heavy duty springs in the front with heavy-duty sidekick springs in the rear with a half inch spacer?

Anything other then Bilsteins and I would make sure to get a lifetime warranty.  Then you can just keep replacing them.    I used a set of Napa default replacement struts, they lasted one Fall Adventure trip and they were shot. 

The OME struts are supposed to hold up great, IF you put a limiting strap on.  They don't like being over-extended and will blow out prematurely.  Other then that I haven't heard any complaints.

I'm curious, are billsteins or OME the better option?

Pricewise they seem very close.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/BSN-35-003991
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/BSN-24-015882

Are these the type you're running? Or do I need to get a different model to deal with the lift?

OME is designed for 2" of lift.  Same travel, but further down.  If your running a lift with the Bilstein you will need to get a strut spacer, as it is a stock replacement.

The Bilstein is heavy duty and you can beat them up all day without issues.  I have run several races on them and started to get shock fade once, and that track was nasty.  In my DD they are a touch stiff with the grand vit springs, but have held up to 30+ miles of washboard without a complaint or loss in compression.  I have toasted lesser struts within 5 miles.

But people have been happy with OME, I haven't run them so I can't compare.  Just make sure you use limiting straps. 

So the bilsteins are stock length, and I'd have to use strut spacers on the front, what about the rear. 

With the OME GV hd springs up front and sidekick HDs with 1inch spacers out back, will I see issues?

Seems to be becoming more trouble than it's worth.

While I'm a very aggressive street driver, I doubt I'll be overheating the shocks and struts when creeping down the pipelines around here, but if they are worth the additional 209$ I'm interested.

I wanna run 30s with bumpers, and rock sliders with zero rubbage. I have no rocks or hills. But I wanna change the struts and shocks out anyways since the others are a minimum 14 years old.

So the bilsteins are stock length, and I'd have to use strut spacers on the front, what about the rear. 

With the OME GV hd springs up front and sidekick HDs with 1inch spacers out back, will I see issues?

Seems to be becoming more trouble than it's worth.

While I'm a very aggressive street driver, I doubt I'll be overheating the shocks and struts when creeping down the pipelines around here, but if they are worth the additional 209$ I'm interested.

I wanna run 30s with bumpers, and rock sliders with zero rubbage. I have no rocks or hills. But I wanna change the struts and shocks out anyways since the others are a minimum 14 years old.

Yes, it seems more trouble than it's ..., well it is a lot of trouble.

As you raise the kickers above 2" you start running into CV blowing issues, and have to do a diff drop to fix it.
Drone637 is running Ford Ranger springs up front on his Trouble Race car on 30's with stock rims. 
I am running modified TJ springs on back (may be a little light for a 4 door).
For rock sliders, here is how I did them http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-2x4-rockers-frnt-bmper-4-dr-sprngs-lwered-frnt-diff-$30-steel-frnt-diff/

I had to put a 1" strut spacer on the front after the GV springs.  Otherwise I found that I would max my struts out when hitting large bumps on the freeway, made for a rough ride.  A 1" spacer made all the difference.

For the rear I am just running a 1" spacer with stock length shocks, but I want to switch to full springs some day.  I also have an anti sway bar in the back so the ride is a bit rough but it is nice and stable.

Additionally I run 1" spacers on the corners, so that introduces some rubbing with the 235/75R15 Toyo All Terrain tires.

Finally picked a nice five door up. 1995 auto with 160k. Engine sounds rattly in the top end when free revved. My guess is it needs a valve adjustment. Drove it 180 miles home on the interstate and it hummed along at 3k and 65 with not even a hiccup.

Whoever did the timing belt didn't seal the cover properly and their is a small oil leak, idk about transmission. Going to clean the engine bay tomorrow of gunk, swap the oil and filter for some 5w20 for a tank, and then change and again after another tank. Then throw in a decent filter and 5w30/40.  Probably flush the tranny once and then bring it somewhere for them to flush it, swap filter, and swap the fluid in torque converter. Reliability issues first and then I'll start installing mods.

None of my doorlocks will unlock with my key... No idea what's wrong.

Lots of fun stuff to tackle tomorrow.

Being that this is replacing a fairly new Toyota as a daily driver, getting it running like new is a priority.

Lowrangeoffroad 2.5 kit ordered with slightly different springs.
Wheels ordered.
Radio ordered.


Now about to head by my tire shop and make sure they have what I want in stock.


I know everyone says 30s are the limit of the stock gears... And some that 235s is pushing it.

The mastercraft mts I want run 29.5 in their 30x9 and 30.5 in their 30x10.5, the difference in weight is inconsequential. While usually that inch difference in height wouldnt matter... That additional 1.5 inches in width sounds good.

31s on a daily driver that are actually 30.5s.... Possible or no? They weigh in at 41lbs... I run heavier tires on my 800 Polaris in a 26inch.

You will have to push the engine a bit more on hills, but 30" tires will work fine.  We ran them on Project Trouble and BRD HNTR ran them for a while with his stock 1.6l.

I could tell the difference when I tried some 31X10/5X15's tires over my 30X9.5X15's.  You will notice the power loss, and constant use of 4th gear.
And it may lead you to look for more power, and other modifications.

I could tell the difference when I tried some 31X10/5X15's tires over my 30X9.5X15's.  You will notice the power loss, and constant use of 4th gear.
And it may lead you to look for more power, and other modifications.

Like a 2.7l swap, among other things. 

The 2.7 swap is actuaally a goal. But first I have to put 50-60k on this one.

And I would need a shop capable of doing it.

30.5 or 29.5.... Essentially the same weight one looks better because of the width. Is that inch of height really going to kill me that bad.  It's something like 18% larger than what's on there now.

Well here it is, cleaned up pretty well.  Brakes are done, fluid swaps,  just waiting on parts and trying to decide what tires.

Runs excellent, needs power steering pump (previous owner overfilled and bearing on pulley is going, still works fine though), changing all hoses, belts, and a pulley or two when I do the ps pump and timing belt.