I was wondering what every one does for alignment after a lift. I don't want to use camber bolts, so I reamed out the top hole and it does not look like enough. Is it OK to ream the bottom hole out too? also I have a lift kit from mud child and i can't get the pan hard bar bracket in, is there a little trick to this i don't know about or do i have to grind down the end to get it in there?

I'm going to ask - why don't you like the camber bolts - you've already reamed out the top hole, you're considering reaming out the bottom - in my opinion you'd be better off with the camber bolts than the way it is now.

The results you achieve with camber bolts is pretty much the same as you do with reamed out holes - you're tilting the knuckle relative to the strut - the biggest difference is that the camber bolt has a cam action that makes adjusting the camber a heck of a lot easier.

Without camber bolts, the adjustment process is slacken the bolt(s) bump the knuckle in or out, a little a time, and if you go too far, reverse the process - tedious & time consuming - there's also very little to stop the adjustment from shifting under impact.

With camber bolts, the adjustment is simpler - you hold the bolt head with one wrench, slacken the nut and then rotate the bolt as needed - quite precise - and the knuckle remains in contact with the cam, making it a lot less likely to shift under impact.

In my recent experience the camber bolts made next to no difference...  not a good option in my opinion...

Dumb question, but if you just installed the lift kit, did you drive the truck around for a few miles to allow the front end to come to rest again?   When you move, replace or space the springs they need to resettle to their riding positions before you attempt to align them.  So if they haven't "settled" they probably look like they are laying over.

I was wondering what every one does for alignment after a lift. I don't want to use camber bolts, so I reamed out the top hole and it does not look like enough. Is it OK to ream the bottom hole out too? also I have a lift kit from mud child and i can't get the pan hard bar bracket in, is there a little trick to this i don't know about or do i have to grind down the end to get it in there?

I didn't have much difficulty getting the panhard bracket in. Make sure you're putting it in the right place to begin with, put it on the lower left axle side, not the upper right frame side. I had to have my husband push my axle over while I stuck the bolt in the hole for it.

EDIT:

As for the alignment, I used camber bolts and they helped, but they weren't enough. I took it to Autospring here locally, and they reamed out my struts for me and aligned it. It's REALLY close now, close enough to count. I think once I put a heavier front bumper on it, it'll be where it needs to. I significantly reduced the tire scrub though.

I'm going to ask - why don't you like the camber bolts - you've already reamed out the top hole, you're considering reaming out the bottom - in my opinion you'd be better off with the camber bolts than the way it is now.

The results you achieve with camber bolts is pretty much the same as you do with reamed out holes - you're tilting the knuckle relative to the strut - the biggest difference is that the camber bolt has a cam action that makes adjusting the camber a heck of a lot easier.

Without camber bolts, the adjustment process is slacken the bolt(s) bump the knuckle in or out, a little a time, and if you go too far, reverse the process - tedious & time consuming - there's also very little to stop the adjustment from shifting under impact.

With camber bolts, the adjustment is simpler - you hold the bolt head with one wrench, slacken the nut and then rotate the bolt as needed - quite precise - and the knuckle remains in contact with the cam, making it a lot less likely to shift under impact.

The reason i don't like camber bolts is I want a more permanent set up. I have to old struts i am cutting the mounting tabs of to make plate to go over the holes i reamed out. After I get my alignment I am tack welding them in place, so if I have to take it apart i don't need to get a alignment ever time.

Dumb question, but if you just installed the lift kit, did you drive the truck around for a few miles to allow the front end to come to rest again?   When you move, replace or space the springs they need to resettle to their riding positions before you attempt to align them.  So if they haven't "settled" they probably look like they are laying over.

No i haven't drove the truck around yet I was thinking that mite be it but it looks like its out a allot

for the front, I had to "ream" or deremel out the upper strut hole, and then had to use camber bolts when I must've bent my frame when I slid into a rock lol

the biggest problem for our trucklets is the pan-hard bar... when you raise the rear, you NEED the extention, otherwise you'll have your axel off center, and more weight on the "right hand side" wearing that tire and having uneven traction

hay xjnewfie what part of Newfoundland you in? I'm in CBS by the look of your pic's i would guess cowan heights

In my recent experience the camber bolts made next to no difference...  not a good option in my opinion...

Are you installing them correctly?  Don't get me wrong - I'm not attacking you - but my first time out with camber bolts, I had exactly that experience, and the problem was how I was installing them - I was using Engalls fastcams which look like this ...



I put the washer right where I always put it - under the nut - instead of where it needs to be under the bolt head.

Correctly installed a set of Engalls (two bolts, one for each side) will typically give +/-2 degrees of camber change (that's a total of 4 degrees) and you can run two sets (four bolts, two per side) for +/-4 degrees (total of 8 degrees).  If you can't get the alignment back in with 8 degrees of variance, I'd say that's a lot of lift.

The reason i don't like camber bolts is I want a more permanent set up. I have to old struts i am cutting the mounting tabs of to make plate to go over the holes i reamed out. After I get my alignment I am tack welding them in place, so if I have to take it apart i don't need to get a alignment ever time.

This brings another question to mind - what's the reason you're unbolting the strut from the knuckle?

Two scenarios come to mind - based on personal experience - either you're changing the spring or you're changing the strut - if you're changing the spring, you most likely need to realign when you're done, and if you're changing the strut, then the new one won't have the tabs you welded, so you'll most likely need to realign again.

cv joint. i haven't changed a bearing yet so i don't know if that will make a difference. any way i have not heard any thing about reaming the bottom hole yet.

Dumb question, but if you just installed the lift kit, did you drive the truck around for a few miles to allow the front end to come to rest again?   When you move, replace or space the springs they need to resettle to their riding positions before you attempt to align them.  So if they haven't "settled" they probably look like they are laying over.

No i haven't drove the truck around yet I was thinking that mite be it but it looks like its out a allot

That's the exact point I was making.  When you first drop the truck back down on the springs (so the weight of the truck is on the springs again)... the front tires will have excessive camber because the springs haven't seated again.  You hop in it, drive it around the block and check it again.  You should note far less severe appearing camber angles.  A 2" lift should not produce excessive camber angles once the springs are seated and upper camber bolts should be suffieint to bring you back into proper camber specs. 


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cool i was planing to ride for a day or so before i get my alignment anyway I'll see how it sits after that. ThanX nprecon.

When I replaced my drivers side cv I didn't need to unbolt the strut.  However there was cussing involved.

The (US) driver's side or left side axle shaft can be unbolt & slipped out - the right side (US passenger) has to be pulled out of the differential so the knuckle has to be moved - I'm not certain if it can be done by popping the ball joint from the control arm, or if releasing it from the strut is the only option.