What am I doing wrong?  My Sidekick, eats them up quick, any ideas?  I just replaced them and I already hear a roar.  I replaced the hubs and wheel barrings, just a few days ago.   I already hear the roar again.  What would cause this to happen?

Thanks,

Chris

How are you torquing them? 150 ft lbs is recommended.

I had Midas replace a wheel bearing as I didn't have time, they screwed it up and didn't put enough grease in.  1000 miles later I replaced it again.

Don't over-tighten the wheel bearing, that can lead to failure. Don't forget that when you tighten it to back off just a bit then re-tighten and back off.

Are you driving in mud or deep water a lot?

Trackick wheel bearings in the front are supposed to be torqued to 150lbs according to the service manual, and then locked with the locking ring and screws. I've never read anything about backing them off like some other types of wheel bearings, especially those that use a castellated nut and cotter pin to lock them. But hey, I've been known to be wrong before, and certainly don't want to give bad info.

Thanks, I had my service dept to do it.  I am having them re-grease the barrings tomorrow.  Thanks for all the replies.  I will let you know if it helps.

Thanks,

Chris

I've never read anything about backing them off like some other types of wheel bearings, especially those that use a castellated nut and cotter pin to lock them. But hey, I've been known to be wrong before, and certainly don't want to give bad info.

It's just the way I was told to do it, so I've always done it that way.    From what I understand it makes sure the bearings are seated and not just binding up. 

When I put new, or reused, wheel bearings in, I spin the wheel hub as I tighten the nut.  IDK if it helps, but my theory is it keeps everything straight when the bearing is seating.

crobinson....I guess they do know how to actually pack a wheel bearing and not just smear grease on it, right?  I  have heard of some people just smearing grease on the outside of the bearing and not actually packing it, to force grease inside the bearing.

Are they replacing the seals too? if stuff is getting in there they won't last so long.

  The wheel bearing on a 96 are crush bearings. You must torque them the proper spec. or they fail really quick. If you set them like regular wheel bearing they will never seat. You do need to get the special tool to get that much torque on them. A hammer, and a punch will never get them torqued enough. My Haynes manual says the spec. is 159 ft. lbs. You also need a press to get the double race out.

You have to be careful though, there are two types of wheel bearings available on Trackers.  In most markets they switched in 93, I believe.  So the manual tends to have the wrong torque specs half the time.

I've checked this in the FSM, and from doing bearing service on my Tracker, THEY MUST BE TORQUED BETWEEN 150 AND 160 TO CORRECTLY SEAT. THESE ARE NOT THE TYPE OF BEARING THAT REQUIRES INSTALLER TO TIGHTEN THEN BACK OFF, THAT'S ONLY FOR SINGLE RACE BEARINGS WITH A CASTLEATED NUT AND COTTER PIN LOCK.

The 159lb requirement is for the one-piece sealed wheel bearings that Suzuki supposedly switched to in 93.  However, my 96 has the two-piece grease-able bearings so results may vary.  I just setup mine using the manual from my SJ-410 since they have the same style wheel bearing.

I have replaced them yet again, I had them packed then spun the wheel as I tightened them.  So far so good!

Thanks, everyone.

I have had the same problem.My tracker is an 89.My brgs are the type that you have to pack.
I used the old tighten then back off a little method. Within 3 trail rides the left front is " GONE ".

89 is NOT ? A year that has to be torqued ?

Randy

I have had the same problem.My tracker is an 89.My brgs are the type that you have to pack.
I used the old tighten then back off a little method. Within 3 trail rides the left front is " GONE ".

89 is NOT ? A year that has to be torqued ?

Randy

They all have to be torqued.  The 89 FSM says 89-148 ft. lbs. (yeah, quite a range).  If you tightened the nut, then backed it off, then it was way too loose and that is likely why the bearings are gone already.