Here is a short summary of parts I used to install megasquirt:
     MS1 DIY kit                  203.00  (6-8 hours to build)
     8' wire harness               67.00
     Tuning cable                    5.50  (to use with laptop)
     Hall effect crank sensor    34.00
     36-1 trigger wheel          30.00
     DIY MS stimulator           45.00  (1 hour to build)

                             Total $384.00

If you have the extra coin you can spend about $150 and have MS built for you.

I opted out but I would suggest:
     DIY Relay board  64.00
     Relay cable         85.00
     (I used a sub fuse box and relays from my donor Tracker engine)

Other expenses with this engine swap:
     High flow fuel pump  + - 100.00
     Engine swap kit (motor mounts, engine adapter plate)  + - 175.00
     Heat shrink tubing, connectors, new clutch while your at it?


May as well call it about $600-$800.  You can also get a 36-1 wheel sprocket from a Ford XXXX in a scrapyard for peanuts.  It does not fit perfectly onto the 1.6 crank though.  I would suggest the few dollars to buy a sprocket, punch out the center, then weld it in place one you have established the hall sensor location on the correct tooth at TDC.  Its also possible to drill/tap then bolt the sprocket on the crank pulley.

Nice recap.    A buddy is interested in a Megasquirt setup for a 350 with coil packs, so I pointed him over here to your thread. 

Nice recap.    A buddy is interested in a Megasquirt setup for a 350 with coil packs, so I pointed him over here to your thread. 

Well I origionally did a 4x COP setup.  I did manage to get it running/driving.  Its a bit more work with MS1 having to add additional drivers. I kept having RESET problems with this route and opted to go back to stock dizzy.  Actually my engine was missing the dizzy to begin with which is why i did the COP setup to start with.

Word to all.  I had a bazillion headaches using a VR sensor on my crank wheel.  VR's are very sensitive to electric noise and there seems to be several types (ground switching, going high, going low etc).  Do yourselves a favor and order a Hall sensor which is simply a 5 or 12v on/off.  Cut and dry and I have not had reset problems since.

Did a couple of short runs last night at 147Kpa (6.8psi)... screen shot is a first to second gear shift.  Thats a ball park of 115-130hp.  Such a huge difference from our old 1.3 carb!!

Next phase will be upgrading and possibly relocating the IAT sensor. Doing some heat shielding and installing a hood scoop of sorts.  Heat soaks a pain.... but doesn't impact it with the hood off!!

I love megasquirt.... definately forces you to learn a lot more about fuel injection.

[Word to all.  I had a bazillion headaches using a VR sensor on my crank wheel.  VR's are very sensitive to electric noise and there seems to be several types (ground switching, going high, going low etc).  Do yourselves a favor and order a Hall sensor which is simply a 5 or 12v on/off.  Cut and dry and I have not had reset problems since.

VR sensors are very reliable, the problem is usually bad PCB layout and decoupling on the interface. When the input is clamping there is a fair bit of current pushed into the supply rails which can cause ground shifts and noise spikes on a bad PCB, thats what usually causes reset problems.

VR sensors are very reliable, the problem is usually bad PCB layout and decoupling on the interface. When the input is clamping there is a fair bit of current pushed into the supply rails which can cause ground shifts and noise spikes on a bad PCB, thats what usually causes reset problems.

Thanks for the info. You must be in a related industry?

Its very likely that the VR issues I previously had were specific to my situation. 

Thanks for the info. You must be in a related industry?

I design ECUs for a large corporation based in Detroit 

Quote from: zuki1018 on May 20, 2012, 06:57:13 AM

Thanks for the info. You must be in a related industry?

I design ECUs for a large corporation based in Detroit 

Definitely makes you an expert!!

I think the Megasquirt 3 is a totally different PCB.  MS2 is a piggyback on to the same MS1 board.  They probably came a long way with the newer design.  ...although again, there are so many variables involved with a DIY circuit board build and then the external wiring install... others may not have the same issues I had.