I have decided to do a MS1v3 in my 16v swap to my 87 "formerly carbed" sami.  Its a 96' model engine and was already missing only the dizzy/coil driver when i pulled the motor.  I already have the MS unit and also want to turbo this combo sometime down the road.  Instead of buying up the missing parts, I am leaning towards running a coil pack if possible for total control.

After some research, I have learned this G16A motor uses wasted spark and has a VR sensor on the crank.  What I am not totally sure about is I though you have a missing tooth with wasted spark?  From what i can see, there is a wheel with 5 equally spaced teeth behind the crank pulley.  I do not see a cam sensor.



Here is one option:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign4-fourtower-coil-pack-p-409.html

There is a way to control a distributorless ignition system, I'm not sure I would go through
the complexity of making the parts work with a Suzuki engine, the 2 system that are listed
and I would say go with, I would not try to adapt a Suzuki system (distributorless) to a MS
working system, lots of trial and error and working out details

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_DIS.htm

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

If I were you I would get a distributor and let the MS control the spark advance and retard,
that's what I was planning to do, just use the crank star wheel to send RPM information to
the MS, keep it simple and you won't have to adapt some other system to work with yours.

Also the ignition system is not a wasted spark, wasted spark is when 1 coil sparks in 2 cylinders
at the same time, one is firing and the other is on exhaust which is where the spark is wasted as
it doesn't start any combustion.

Most 4 and 6 cylinder cars with a distributorless ignition system use the wasted spark method
and need 2 or 3 coils to fire 4 or 6 cylinders.

All cars with a distributor do not waste the spark, it goes to the cylinder that needs the spark to fire

Wild

I think you have to look further back, It is on the oil pump behind that gear.

You may be confusing your 1.6 Suzuki engines - Suzuki did do a wasted spark system for both the 1.3 & 1.6 16v engines in the late '90's - I don't think it was ever used on the SideKicks, but it certainly does exist.

In the US market the 1.6 Baleno, depending on the year of manufacture could have had a distributor, a wasted spark DIS with two coils mounted on the end of the cylinder head nearest the flywheel, or wasted spark DIS with two coils mounted on the #2 & #4 plugs & cabled to the #3 & #1 plugs respectively.

I believe these engines have a cam position sensor on the rear right side of the head, rather than the one pictured on the oil pump - I can verify that tomorrow.

Thx for the input.  There is just not much info on this engine out there. Initially I was confused when I found a sprocket and sensor on this motor.

After more research today,  It seems i can get a Ford EDIS-4, 36-1 sprocket, and VR and go dizzyless.  Ebay is full of these (used) for $50-60 bux.  I can run this with MS2.  I also see Ford Coil On Plugs versus a single coil pack and I wonder if these will fit the 16v plug holes.

My thoughts here is that I am missing the factory diszzy and igniter on this 96' engine.  If i can spend the same and go distributorless then i can fully tune this engine when I turbo it.

the engine looks like a 1995 or older, I do not see the notch in the oil pan or the wire with the sensor sticking down.

the engine looks like a 1995 or older, I do not see the notch in the oil pan or the wire with the sensor sticking down.

The sensor is there, its oil camo'd

OK I see it now, I was out in the sun all day so my eyes were not adjusted yet, I have a spare 1996 out in my shop I was going to look at to see if my pan looked the same but I'm trying to get my a.c. hooked up in my shop first and then my monitor 41 heater so I don't have any more excuses. LOl

OK I see it now, I was out in the sun all day so my eyes were not adjusted yet, I have a spare 1996 out in my shop I was going to look at to see if my pan looked the same but I'm trying to get my a.c. hooked up in my shop first and then my monitor 41 heater so I don't have any more excuses. LOl

I hear ya. My laundry list stays pretty full. I am excited to kick off this project. I was hoping to rig the crank wheel up behind the timing cover. I dont think this is possible without getting something custom made. Second best looks like it will have to mount on back of the crank pully. I wonder how a VR sensor holds up reading
under muddy conditions.

Started a build diary to continue on this topic:

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/build-up-87-sami-1-6-16v-megasquirt/

you can call and talk to trail tough, I think that they unplug theirs and run off of the sensor that takes the place of the distributor, the engine then runs on bank injecting instead of sequentially  but other than that it runs good and does not short out the computer.

you can call and talk to trail tough, I think that they unplug theirs and run off of the sensor that takes the place of the distributor, the engine then runs on bank injecting instead of sequentially  but other than that it runs good and does not short out the computer.

Injection & ignition are different - especially distributorless coil pack ignition.

With batch (or bank) fire - you spray fuel on all four injectors simultaneously paying no attention to which cylinder is on the intake stroke - it's not the most efficient way of doing it, but it works, especially at higher rpm - there is no parallel with ignition because you HAVE to fire the cylinder that is on compression stroke.

Most injection systems are batch fire, even if it is a sequential system, at
freeway RPM, the system has to pulse the injectors without regard to the
intake valve opening timing just to meter the correct amount of fuel to run
right.

In essence we have all been sold a load of bunk about sequential injection
and HP figures and it being a performance feature on high performance cars,
it is purely a SMOG device that allows a more exact injection to reduce emissions
at low engine speeds and idle, that is how you spin something into greatness, with
a cleverly worded phrase

Wild

I was trying to answer his question about the Mud issue, trail tough cuts the lower sensor wire off high up on the fire wall so water and stuff does not short out or mess with the ecm.

That lower sensor is a VR type, and I think it is used for RPM information,
in the later systems I think it might be required because the distributor I
have has no advance weights, at least I think not, it's been a long time since
I was planning the 16V swap

As far as mud, the front cover should take care of that, if there is mud in there
you are going to have more trouble than a shorted sensor, but I think it's sealed
well enough anyway