Hey all
Want to put a locker in the rear diff of my 90 Tracker.  Real soon.  I'm going to have it "out of commission" while I'm tweaking other things and thinking about just pulling the 3rd member and having a local diff shop set it up.
Just want a Lock Right.  I'm probably going to buy the model that uses factory side gears, from what I've heard, if your side gears are good, use them, right?  Because the one that comes with "couplers" operates differently and using factory side gears is more on-road friendly?
Also, what does it take to modify the Samurai's Spartan locker to fit the Tracker rear 3rd?
Lastly, just how strong are the factory rear axles?  This truck is 90% street use.  Used moderately off road.  Should I just install the locker and see how well they hold up?  I don't want to spend the $400 on Calmini axles if I don't have to.  Then again, if I do install HD axles, is there any advantage to using the locker w/ couplers?

Thanks, all.  Just looking for advice from someone else who's been there, done that.
DJ

I am going to tell you my personal experience with a lockright in a tracker on the street. I installed one in my 5spd 95. I used the stock side gears and it worked great for off road. It adds an extra 1/3  turn or play to the drive shaft when shifting or pulling out. For me it wasn't a problem, for most people they would hate it. When turning sharp corners it has a loud clicking noise coming out of the rear. Just saying it's not that friendly on the street but is a cheap alternative to an ARB airlocker which I now have frt and rear.

I am going to tell you my personal experience with a lockright in a tracker on the street. I installed one in my 5spd 95. I used the stock side gears and it worked great for off road. It adds an extra 1/3  turn or play to the drive shaft when shifting or pulling out. For me it wasn't a problem, for most people they would hate it. When turning sharp corners it has a loud clicking noise coming out of the rear. Just saying it's not that friendly on the street but is a cheap alternative to an ARB airlocker which I now have frt and rear.

I would say the same thing, I kept checking the end play every 6 months, and changing shims to make it work better.  On this Fathers Day I received an ARB for the rear.  Now I have both ends.
So yes, if you are not sure of what you are doing, have a shop set it up for you.  They should work better than mine did, and if I didn't like off-road as much I wouldn't need the ARB.  The new Locker complete units are making ARB's more attractive.

It adds an extra 1/3  turn or play to the drive shaft when shifting or pulling out.

That's what I keep hearing. That the "sidegears" model (1512) allows a little more slip before lock, and that the "couplers" model (1532) locks up better.

The new Locker complete units are making ARB's more attractive.

What complete units?

The new Locker complete units are making ARB's more attractive.

What complete units?

POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER DIFFERENTIAL       at :$365.53 
'89-98 Sidekick Front Locker
TT-SKL-400            $299.00
For half as much as an ARB, the ARB's are not out of reach.  They work when needed and you have an open diff when not needed.  (If you run the air line where it won't get hot and melt, as someone did before MOAB.)

ok bird hunter tell me more.how is this working for you ? did you install? who was the supplier?

any other comments you might have/

Thanks

They are expensive.
Install is easier than lockers

• remove ring gear and diff. body
• stuff and cover pinion gear with rags
• drill and tap hole for airline
• carefully remove rags with drill shavings
• rinse housing with solvent to ensure all shavings are out
• install ring gear on ARB
• install rg & ARB in housing
• adjust backlash & preload
• install diff, and fill w oil
• install compressor & run air line to ARB

DO NOT RUN AIR LINE NEXT TO ANYTHING THAT GETS HOT.  It melts very easy and then the air usually goes out the melted area and ARB DOES NOT WORK W/O 60# AIR. 
Cut outs in lower dash are just right for ARB switches.
I used a vapor separator from AC for a storage tank, get three charges on front and about 1 1/2 on rear.
I charge the compressor when I hit a trail, then when I can't or don't want any slippage I engage the rear and then front if needed.
I just got the rear for Fathers Day, so I installed it before Moab.  [Where I found out that a hot Auto Trans. will melt the air line.]
The FD present was bought in Everett, Wa. because they could get it to me in time to install before my trip.  My front one was a used one I bought and traded for.  The dealers really stick to a standard price, and ZW venders are average price.
The air compressor does not come with the ARB, they are about $200+.  I used a compressor out of a Lincoln, until Moab.  I thought the compressor had give up with two ARB's, then found the melted air line.  (When you get older/deaf/both, you don't notice small noises like air leaks.)

Install is easier than lockers

• remove ring gear and diff. body
• stuff and cover pinion gear with rags
• drill and tap hole for airline
• carefully remove rags with drill shavings
• rinse housing with solvent to ensure all shavings are out
• install ring gear on ARB
• install rg & ARB in housing
• adjust backlash & preload
• install diff, and fill w oil
• install compressor & run air line to ARB

Interesting statement.
I have installed both ARBs and lock rights.  I would not agree that ARBs are an easier install.
With a lock right....
drain rear end oil.
drop the third out.
mark the positions of the carrier bearing adjusters.
remove carrier and ring gear from carrier.
remove crosspins, sidegears, spidergears.
inspect the sidegears, to ensure they are not worn too much for the proper operation of the locker.
install the locker.  check the crosspin block for proper clearance....if needed, sand the side down for the proper clearance (I have had to do it on a couple of lock rights...not a big deal to do...it is important that it is set up with the proper clearance....otherwise, the locker may not operate correctly...I think this is where people that have issues with the lockers do not do a proper job of installation....that, or they are using sidegears with too much wear).
put the carrier back together and the ring gear back on the carrier.
reassemble the third....using the marks you made before disassembly (no need to "set" backlash).
put the third back in.
fill with oil.
done.

No drilling, no running of air lines, no extra stuff to buy (compressor) so the locker will work.
And lock rights can be bought for about $200...so much, much cheaper than an ARB setup.

I do agree that ARBs have nicer road manners than lock rights.  But it depends on if you can live with the quirks of a lock right at 1/3-1/4 the cost of an ARB setup.

BTW, I do run ARBs in my Ranger....but I put those in when I had more "extra" money to spend on stuff like that.  And my Ranger gets driven on the road more than it does off road.

I do not deny it is expensive.  The set up is easier drill a hole for air line and install body of ARB on ring gear.  If not for the Gift, I would still be running the locker and living with it.  Mine would not click, but did seem to work on pavement 75% of the time.  Frustrating when it would buck and pop when turning a Sharp turn on pavement.  When either one is working you have traction, and when they don't, it is usually your setup that failed.  It was easier on me to find the only problem I have had with an ARB than to get the locker working correctly.
Which is why I recommended "if you are not sure of what you are doing, have a shop set it up for you.". 

Thanks for all the advice thus far guys

Any one ever use the limited slips from calmini?

hi i just bought the lockright locker for my 98 suzuki sidekick 4dr sport and
i have to say i love it. it is a little weird to get use to but i dont hear the clicking
at all when the windows are up and no music is playing. and you jsut have to
get use to driving around corners. but other then that i would def get lockright lockers
again im really happy with the setup and i dive about 75%-road, 25%-offroad.

.Dml-