Has anyone ever designed a new TBI intake for the 8v engine?  the stock one is terrible.  I bet with a better one that doesnt heat the charge up there is probable an easy 5-10 hp increase with a new one and a mild build.

I was thinking about this, too.  Then I started to have more and more people tell me, and point me to articles about engine design and tuning, and the more I learned, the more I realized that Suzuki/Geo actually intentionally designed the air intake to cross over the hot exhaust for a reason.  It acts as an "intake air heater."  All this talk about "cold air intakes" and such, and there actually is such a thing as having air that is TOO cool.  It crosses over the exhaust for a reason. 
I left mine alone.  The only thing I am trying to change right now is the fact that the factory intake tube in the fender has two inlets: one next to the headlight drawing in fresh outside air, and another inlet in the engine compartment behind the headlight about 1" around.  I would suggest (and I am trying to do this now) ducting that 1" inlet to just behind the grille with some kind of air "scoop" to be drawing in cleaner/cooler air, not from inside the engine compartment.  Then you retain the original "intake air heater" that Suzuki engineered for a reason.  Believe me, there's plenty of things that we look at and think "why the hell did they do that?" when actually they did lots of R&D and engineering to come up with things.
I'm fooling around with this right now but haven't come up with a real good idea.
I was going to use an extra-wide Shop-Vac tip and some 1" flex ducting.  That's my "prototype" idea.  If anyone has any better suggestions, throw them out there.

This reminds me of those ads - 5~10 hp from a cold air intake - yeah - right.

By the way - I did reply in your other thread with a more informative answer, just not prepared to repeat it here.

Think carefully about it though - on a percentage basis - can you get that much more power by simply cooling the intake charge - or are you just regurgitating the hype that "bling" manufacturers spew?

I thought anything chrome under the hood added 20+ H.P..    

In that case I'm going to chrome the engine cover on my "new-to-me" Pinin

Im talking about a new intake manifold, not cold air.  lol,  I dont think cold air would do much when you have hot coolant running between the runners inside the intake.  its gonna be heated up.  not to mention the sharp turns it makes before going into the port.  chrome is pretty and all, but it dont help up power up a hill or down the track.   

First - let me agree with you - having a cold air intake doesn't make much sense if the intake manifold is heated - BUT - as has been explained, there is a reason it's heated.

Having got that out of the way - my point is - regardless of how you slice & dice it - at the end of the day, what you're talking about is lowering the intake charge temperature, except you're not doing it with some bling piping upstream of the TBI, you're doing it with some bling piping downstream of the TBI.

All I'm saying is - don't expect 5~10 more hp out of that engine by reducing the intake air temps - it's not going to happen - yes - that's what you see in the ads for the bling CAI kits, but do they actually deliver?

im talking about a better flowing intake.  better runner shape, length and yes, a cooler intake charge.

Agreed, the intake on the 8V engine is roughly designed like the old
single bbl straight 6 engines intake, those were heated by having the
exhaust manifold right under it too, but those were some good torque
engines

Wild

Reducing IAT is important to a certain extent.  It will gather heat no matter what you do to it.  However, reducing turbulence would be more helpful.  Similar to porting the intake runners and the intake ports in the head, creating a smooth air chamber may help.
But, remember, we're only talking about an engine that was only designed for so much output.  Your "performance" won't be noticeable.  The theory is correct.  The problem is, on an engine this small, there isn't much gain to really doing anything.
I don't even know why I'm dicking around with the idea of "ducting" the air inlet out of the engine bay.  I keep coming back to the above explanation the more I think about these things.

ok guys, everyone knows the only way to get REAL H.P. out of these machines is one of these...


 

That must come with a 50 HP sticker too, it's a turbo with no moving parts !!!

Hang on a second - there's a "twin turbo" version of that thing with two wheels linked by a shaft - the air flow turns one and that one turns the other, I'll see if I can dig up the link.

Here you go 

Damn, I wasted all that time building a turbo when I coulda bought that              

I'm hoping (note, said hoping) for 1 hr per cubic inch.   lol.   we will see though.  my motorcycle had a bigger motor than this. lol.  But I hope with a good ported head, ported intake, tbi spacer, ceramic coated pistons, chamber and exhaust ports, higher compression I can get that.  I will design and build a new intake manifold to see if it helps this engine.  after all, it is only 97 ci.  but the intake comes after I build and install the engine.  my current one is about dead and its my daily.