1.3 88.5 mostly stock-replacing stock carb with brand new weber 32/36.  Can someone tell me exactly what type of pressure regulator I need?  There are topics and replys that mention a jeep filter, some say use a pressure regulator.  I cant find the right post that has this answer.  Just not clear which regulator to buy.

WHat is this about mounting the carb backwards?

Thanks a ton,
Jesse

1.3 88.5 mostly stock-replacing stock carb with brand new weber 32/36.  Can someone tell me exactly what type of pressure regulator I need?  There are topics and replys that mention a jeep filter, some say use a pressure regulator.  I cant find the right post that has this answer.  Just not clear which regulator to buy.

WHat is this about mounting the carb backwards?

Thanks a ton,
Jesse

I don't know know exactly what type of pressure regulator to use (it's dark and cold outside...) but I just went to the O'Reillys Auto Parts near me and found a small round regulator (approximately 2.5 inches in diameter)  with a dial on it's face along with a small pressure gage.  I plumbed into the fuel line at the engine end and set it to 1.5 pounds.

I also plumbed the return line to the port opposite of the fuel inlet on the carburetor (they form an inverted Vee on the side of the carb).  I did this after having to replace the fuel lines due to overpressuring...

This setup, along with a cheap universal fuel pump (also mounted in the engine compartment - not a particularly good idea...), has worked just fine for 7 years.


Mounting the carburetor "backwards" (Choke facing the Head) , allegedly helps keep the carburetor from starving on steep inclines.  I cannot specifically speak with actual knowledge that the above statement is actually true, but it certainly did not hurt my truck by mounting it that way!

I hope that this helps

Thanks Ack
So I need to replace the fuel pump also?  Know what kind?  Do I unhook/remove/plug off the old one?  I have your Ack's faq's to take with me on the plane tomorrow-I did not catch the 'replace the fuel pump' part.

Thanks a ton Ack, I would not have made it this far without your website. 

Jesse

mine runs a stock fuel pump with the regulator set at 1.5 lbs. runs good. it does need a hose from the top of the valve cover to the air cleaner to remove the crank case gas's.

Quote from: JesseWSmith on March 07, 2011, 04:47:06 PM

1.3 88.5 mostly stock-replacing stock carb with brand new weber 32/36.  Can someone tell me exactly what type of pressure regulator I need?  There are topics and replys that mention a jeep filter, some say use a pressure regulator.  I cant find the right post that has this answer.  Just not clear which regulator to buy.

WHat is this about mounting the carb backwards?

Thanks a ton,
Jesse

I don't know know exactly what type of pressure regulator to use (it's dark and cold outside...) but I just went to the O'Reillys Auto Parts near me and found a small round regulator (approximately 2.5 inches in diameter)  with a dial on it's face along with a small pressure gage.  I plumbed into the fuel line at the engine end and set it to 1.5 pounds.

I also plumbed the return line to the port opposite of the fuel inlet on the carburetor (they form an inverted Vee on the side of the carb).  I did this after having to replace the fuel lines due to overpressuring...

This setup, along with a cheap universal fuel pump (also mounted in the engine compartment - not a particularly good idea...), has worked just fine for 7 years.


Mounting the carburetor "backwards" (Choke facing the Head) , allegedly helps keep the carburetor from starving on steep inclines.  I cannot specifically speak with actual knowledge that the above statement is actually true, but it certainly did not hurt my truck by mounting it that way!

I hope that this helps

Ack.... why is this not a good idea? Mine is close to the tank up in the frame rail . I was just curious?

Ack.... why is this not a good idea? Mine is close to the tank up in the frame rail . I was just curious?

You are supposed to have your fuel pump be lower then the fuel tank.  So you have yours the 'recommended' way.  I do the same with mine.

Is this a private argument or can anyone jump in?!!

Hey Ya Hozers, I just did a Weber carb swap earlier this fall.

 THIS IS NOT GOSPEL!! But it worked for me:

I stalled a Bendix Low Pressure Fuel Pump. Mounted it right near the existing fuel filter by the fuel tank.
Plumbed it with Clear Fuel Line (you can SEE if you have flow at the places I put the clear fuel line) into the existing fuel filter & used the existing lines to the engine compartment.(It is best to mount pumps near the supply; its easier to pump than to suck; it's something scientific)

 Disconnected the fuel line at the Mech. fuel pump, replaced it with clear fuel line again to the fuel regulator (Same style you got a Reilly's). Out of regulator Again clear fuel line to carb.

Installed my 0-10 psi gauge (from Summit Racing) in the port you put a return line on carb (opposite of inverted V where fuel line comes in) with a brass street 90 elbow so I can see it easily.

I am running mine |removethispart|@ 2 psi and it has been working great on the mountain trails out here in Nevada.

Also My carb is mounted float facing the front of the vehicle, as in the kits directions without any trouble.

Happy Trails!!
CAPT

Thanks Drone... makes sense... but then that crazy Yooper makes sense with his pumping / sucking analogy... 

You are supposed to have your fuel pump be lower then the fuel tank.  So you have yours the 'recommended' way.  I do the same with mine.

I think that actually depends on the particular pump you choose - some are designed to "lift" and some are not.
If you use a pump that is capable of lift, you can place it above the tank and it will work just fine - on the other hand - if you're using a pump that does not lift, then it must be placed at or below the tank level or it will not work.

One question - where is the pump on a Samurai?

I believe on the 1.3 it is a mechanical pump mounted to the block. Mine is a 1.6 8V. That is the reason for the changed location  and electrical pump mounted to the frame rail by the tank.

RE. Jeep Filter, I had a 1980 cj-7 with a 304 V-8 that had a metal fuel filter with one inlet and two outlets,the outlet with the small orafice went to the return line to help ease the pressure on the fuel pump and to keep it from vaper locking with the high heat under the hood from the crappy fuel that we have.

Just for the record:

MAXIMUM LIFT |removethispart|@ SEA LEVEL 22ft.
USING NATURAL DRAFT.

SYPHON JET PUMPS CAN HAVE MORE LIFT, BUT YOU ARE ACTUALLY
CREATING LIFT WITH A PRESSURED AUX. INPUT of Liq or Air

"I don't KNOW everything,..... But I have an OPINION of everything on anything......Just Ask Me!!"

CAPT

About mounting the fuel pump in the engine compartment...

The best reason for not doing it is the fact that you are "sucking" fuel to the carburetor rather than "pushing".

Any air leaks between the tank and the pump will reduce the fuel flow.  Also, old rubber hoses in the fuel line may collapse from the pump sucking fuel rather than pushing it.

There is a distinct lag between the time that you turn the key to "IGN" and the engine-mounted pump finishes pressurizing the fuel line.  It is a waste of time trying to start the engine if the fuel pump is trying to build fuel line pressure by sucking fuel from the tank. I have to wait about 20-30 seconds before starting after the truck has been standing for more that a couple of hours.

There al;so is a possibility of a fire hazard but the more I think of it the less dangerous this mounting method may be...  Suck or push, fuel still moves from the tank to the carb...

I have been lucky with mine in the engine compartment so far...

I believe on the 1.3 it is a mechanical pump mounted to the block.

That is exactly my point - if there was some design rule or safety issue governing the placement of the pump - it would not have been where it is.

There is a distinct lag between the time that you turn the key to "IGN" and the engine-mounted pump finishes pressurizing the fuel line.  It is a waste of time trying to start the engine if the fuel pump is trying to build fuel line pressure by sucking fuel from the tank. I have to wait about 20-30 seconds before starting after the truck has been standing for more that a couple of hours.

Really?  I was under the impression you had to turn the key and crank the engine before the engine mounted pump would move fuel.

Also - we are discussing a carburetted engine here - the engine really should start & run on the contents of the float bowl, at least mine do (I have two, one with a mechanical engine mounted pump, and the other with a low pressure "in-tank" pump), and they both start with less cranking than my EFI one, regardless of whether it's been sitting for 2 minutes or 2 days.

Seriously - if you have to wait 20~30 seconds before you can get a start after the engine has been sitting for a couple of hours, I'd suspect you have a leak someplace - you're probably draining the float bowl and have to wait for it to refill.

Just for the record:

MAXIMUM LIFT |removethispart||removethispart|@ SEA LEVEL 22ft.
USING NATURAL DRAFT.

SYPHON JET PUMPS CAN HAVE MORE LIFT, BUT YOU ARE ACTUALLY
CREATING LIFT WITH A PRESSURED AUX. INPUT of Liq or Air

"I don't KNOW everything,..... But I have an OPINION of everything on anything......Just Ask Me!!"

CAPT

This looks like the spec for a domestic shallow well jet pump - does it really have any bearing on this discussion?