OK got everthing back in the sidekick, after messing with the distributor and timing it finally runs BUT not good.
it starts revs up to about 2500rpm on its own and stays there for about 15 seconds and then dies if you give it fuel when it starts to die it comes back it will not idle. Barely touch the throttle and it revs high.
It also sounds like it has a miss. sounds like i missed a electrical plug somewhere but i have check and triple checked everthing.
What could be going on???

Ok, so you used the "new" engine and head, your old intake manifold, right?  Did you put a new intake gasket on, and get all the intake bolts tightened properly?  If you have a vacuum leak (like from an intake manifold gasket leaking), it will rev high.
Does your check engine light work?  Is it on, after you start the engine?
What was wrong with your old engine that you had to replace it with this one?

Ok, so you used the "new" engine and head, your old intake manifold, right?  Did you put a new intake gasket on, and get all the intake bolts tightened properly?  If you have a vacuum leak (like from an intake manifold gasket leaking), it will rev high.
Does your check engine light work?  Is it on, after you start the engine?
What was wrong with your old engine that you had to replace it with this one?

New block, head old intake with new gasket. Check engine on the old engine was on all the time it is off now.
the reason for replace was water in oil even after changing head gasket.

Quote from: Skyhiranger on February 06, 2011, 06:09:32 PM

Ok, so you used the "new" engine and head, your old intake manifold, right?  Did you put a new intake gasket on, and get all the intake bolts tightened properly?  If you have a vacuum leak (like from an intake manifold gasket leaking), it will rev high.
Does your check engine light work?  Is it on, after you start the engine?
What was wrong with your old engine that you had to replace it with this one?

New block, head old intake with new gasket. Check engine on the old engine was on all the time it is off now.
the reason for replace was water in oil even after changing head gasket.

Sounds like the old block was probably cracked.
Hmm.  Just by changing the head and block, that shouldn't make the CEL go off, if it was on all the time with the old engine running.  The CEL lights because of a sensor that isn't working (or not plugged in), or one that is not sending info back to the ECM.  Since you kept the same intake (and sensors), the CEL should still be on.  But what it could be is that since you had the battery unhooked for quite awhile, the CEL got reset.  So it will probably be off, until the engine has ran long enough to "set" the code again and make it light up again.

Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to run and not start the engine?

I'd go back and make sure you got the distributor installed in the correct place.  If you are off even one tooth, it can make and engine run very odd.  The distributor should also be pretty close to the center of its adjustment range.  That will get the timing very close to spec., if you have not hooked up a timing light to set it.

Did the old engine have a miss?  Did you reuse the old spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil wire?  If not, and if the old engine didn't have a miss, I'd put all of those from the old engine on this one.  That should rule out any of those components causing the miss.
You have the spark plug wires on the distributor in the correct order?  The distributor spins counter clockwise and 1-3-4-2 is the firing order.

Quote from: ryanf73 on February 06, 2011, 06:18:03 PM

Quote from: Skyhiranger on February 06, 2011, 06:09:32 PM

Ok, so you used the "new" engine and head, your old intake manifold, right?  Did you put a new intake gasket on, and get all the intake bolts tightened properly?  If you have a vacuum leak (like from an intake manifold gasket leaking), it will rev high.
Does your check engine light work?  Is it on, after you start the engine?
What was wrong with your old engine that you had to replace it with this one?

New block, head old intake with new gasket. Check engine on the old engine was on all the time it is off now.
the reason for replace was water in oil even after changing head gasket.

Sounds like the old block was probably cracked.
Hmm.  Just by changing the head and block, that shouldn't make the CEL go off, if it was on all the time with the old engine running.  The CEL lights because of a sensor that isn't working (or not plugged in), or one that is not sending info back to the ECM.  Since you kept the same intake (and sensors), the CEL should still be on.  But what it could be is that since you had the battery unhooked for quite awhile, the CEL got reset.  So it will probably be off, until the engine has ran long enough to "set" the code again and make it light up again.

Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to run and not start the engine?

I'd go back and make sure you got the distributor installed in the correct place.  If you are off even one tooth, it can make and engine run very odd.  The distributor should also be pretty close to the center of its adjustment range.  That will get the timing very close to spec., if you have not hooked up a timing light to set it.

Did the old engine have a miss?  Did you reuse the old spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil wire?  If not, and if the old engine didn't have a miss, I'd put all of those from the old engine on this one.  That should rule out any of those components causing the miss.
You have the spark plug wires on the distributor in the correct order?  The distributor spins counter clockwise and 1-3-4-2 is the firing order.

Checked firing order looks good i reused everything check engine light is on all the time now. I also changed the water pump and timing belt.
We messed around with the distributor for a 1/2 hour got it to run and ujuster nut is in the middle(runs best there). found 2 ground that were not hooked up fix clicking problem from relays.
I used new intake gasket and tightened up all bolt in cross pattern. Engine ran great always started right up no miss just had water in oil.

Not sure what do next?

If the CEL is on all the time now (even with the engine running), put your jumper in place and see what code, or codes, it is flashing.  That should point you in the direction of your problem.
How sure are you that you got the timing belt back on in the right place (not off a tooth one way or the other)?

If the CEL is on all the time now (even with the engine running), put your jumper in place and see what code, or codes, it is flashing.  That should point you in the direction of your problem.
How sure are you that you got the timing belt back on in the right place (not off a tooth one way or the other)?

This is the second timing belt that i have done and feel good about the install. I do not know how to pull codes??

Ok.  We won't worry about the timing belt for now then.
You have to place a jumper wire (I use a paper clip that has been bent into a "U" shape), in the plug that is up near the battery, to short a couple of the wires.  That will allow the CEL to start flashing, when the key is turned on (engine off), and you can count the flash sequence and it will give you a 2 digit code, that you can look up to see what the code stands for.
Let me see if I can find an outline with pics for the procedure....because it is pretty hard to explain (for me anyway)...
Here, try this....
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,27886.0.html
and this...
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,28566.0.html

It also could be that your odometer just reached a mileage interval, which causes the CEL to be on all the time, even though there is no error code.  Here is some info on that, just in case that is the problem....
http://www.kick-fix.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html

it flashed 3 times then 4 times

Air Flow Sensor Circuit ??
Where is it located?

Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.  It is the large sensor that is between the airbox and the rubber intake tube.  You did remember to plug the connector into it...didn't you?

its pluged in it probably sent a error code when i was checking all the connectors i unpluged and pluged all of them.
I will go out and disconnect battery then start and see if error code comeback.

its pluged in it probably sent a error code when i was checking all the connectors i unpluged and pluged all of them.
I will go out and disconnect battery then start and see if error code comeback.

As long as you didn't unplug it when the engine was running (or before you started the engine and left it unplugged when you started the engine), it wouldn't have thrown an error code.  Plus, the code would have automatically cleared, once the ECM saw it was plugged in (assuming the wiring is good between it and the ECM) and the engine was running.
If you need to check the connection from it back to the ECM, here is a pic of the test procedure.  Hopefully, you can see it good enough to read it.  If not, I can scan it later.

code 23 and 34
IAT Sensor Circuit
Air Flow Sensor Circuit

I do not know where they are. Sorry I do not do this often.

code 23 and 34
IAT Sensor Circuit
Air Flow Sensor Circuit

I do not know where they are. Sorry I do not do this often.

air flow sensor circuit is the MAF sensor that I mentioned earlier.
The IAT sensor is the sensor in the lid of the airbox.  It has an electrical connector that plugs into it too.
I can't hardly see both of those sensors being bad.  I would look over the wiring really close and make sure it isn't damaged or broken from the sensor back to the ECM.  If it looks ok, you are going to have to do continuity checks with a multi-meter on the wires, between the connectors at the sensors and the ECM plug, to verify the wiring is ok.
The other possibility is that the ECM is bad.  But the 95s didn't have the ECM issues as often as the earlier ECMs did.