I don't think the mileage will be there like your thinking. While the 1.3 engine will get high 30's and even an occasional 40 in the Geo Metro/Swift, once you put it into a box it'll get 20 maybe 23 or so... That's exactly what happens when it's installed in a Samurai which is a box... right? Add taller tires and you're probably in the teens for fuel economy. 

Here's an old vid of a Model 'A' type vehicle with some interesting drivetrain. Maybe this is more of what you're looking for?

Fastest 1929 Ford Model "A"

Here's the place that did it  http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?

-Eric

So here is an Idea....

My older brother has a nearly complete '31 Model A two-door (bodywork is short but it has a complete drivetrain).

I have a '96 Tracker 4x4 16v 1.6 automatic - rode hard and put away wet by my son.

One wonders what a rebuilt engine/transmission would do for it - or should we stick to the existing drivetrain since it is there and in good condition (especially the engine!)?

I - apparently - am the motorhead of the family.  I am puzzled as to why my bro has been sitting on this vehicle for 25 years...

That is an interesting video of the Distinguished Gentleman(Model A with the souped up racing Engine).

I almost gave up on this project but have decided to give it a go.

Currently parting out the 86 Suzuki Samurai and hope to get the axles out soon.  Already pulled 5 speed, t-case and driveshafts.

If I can figure out how to add a photo, I will post some pics of the Model A Chassis.  Have a little frame straightening to do.  I can tell you however, for a 1929 Frame, bone stock with only a brake cross-shaft and two engine mounts, it comes in at 119lbs.  I will keep you all posted of progress and the weight of parts as the project moves along.

I do have a Technical Question with regard to the front samurai axles. 

I'm not sure of the part name so I hope I can describe it correctly.

The Model A Frame is longer than the samurai and the axle will actually be fully forward of the engine. 

I hope to use the stock suzuki steering box but place it behind the axle. 

To accomplish this I was hoping to be able to switch the driver and passenger side(piece where the steering linkage connects to) from each wheel when I go into the axle to check bearings, re-pack them with grease, etc...

So, can these parts be swapped between passenger and driver's side to put the full steering linkage behind the axle?

Thanks for  your Help,  Bradshaw

I have a friend with a 1962 ford pickup that switched the spindles and it really messed  up his ackerman and would not track down the road straight.

That's a good point.  I believe the aftermarket steering kit to get the drag link over the springs may be the best solution.  Those bolt on steering arms look like they may be interchangeable, front to back with where they bolt up.

That would probably work.  You might try calling Sky Manufacturing, if they don't work out of the box they might be able to come up with something for you.

Thanks for the lead.  I will follow up with them.  Take a look at the  picture of the sami with a factory Model A 21" wheel bolted to the rear axle.

are they the same pattern?

Yes sir, they are the same bolt pattern 5 x 5.5".   The model a rims are unique however in that they fit over a beveled hub.  I have it bolted to the rear axle.  The stock Model A Rims wont fit over the 4x4 locking hubs on the front axle.  Later model Ford 16" wire rims should fit as they have a larger opening in the center of the wheel.  I found some modern built 19" wire wheels that are made with a flat mount on the rear side like other modern wheels.  Also made to run Radial tires molded in older "model A era" styles and sizes. 

I wont be using these stock rims, but just wanted to see that it fit like it was supposed to before moving to the next step. 

Can anyone tell me if it is a common practice to replace bearings and seals in the rear axles and if so, where I can find a kit?

I see numerous Front Axle kits at all the Samurai offroad businesses online, but have not seen anyone offering rear axle refresher kits.

Thanks for your help, Bradshaw

What if you switched to a one-piece hub from a 99+ Tracker?

Tell me more... Are you talking about for the front axle to possibly be able to run the stock A rims?

Can you share a photo?

Thanks, Bradshaw

you take your stock hubs off and install a splined cap that looks like it only sticks out about an inch or so in the center and would make your front axles be locked in all the time like the newer rigs.

They might be small enough, they are a bit smaller then the manual hubs that come stock.

Ok, I will keep this in mind.  I may still opt for the manual locking hubs so I can disengage the front axle and keep that extra mass from turning while in 2wd.  Seems like those axles turning would turn the front drive shaft as well and cut into mpg's further.

I pulled the rear axles tonight with the backing plates with the intention of converting the rear drum brakes to discs.  I have found and read a set of instructions from another 4x4 website that show how to perform the conversion.

I'm just curious how many folks have done this? Are you satisfied with the home-made "kit"?

I have a small 12 ton shop press.  I feel like I will be able to press on and off the rear bearings for replacement on the short shaft, but the driver's side shaft is too long to fit in the press. 

These instructions say to use a cutoff grinder to cut the backing plates down to a size just large enough to cover the rear wheel bearings in the square area that mates to the rear axle tube flange.  They also indicate, but do not show, that an option is to cut a section of this backing plate out between two of the studs to allow this bearing retainer to slip over the axle between the bearings and the outside flange.  Has anyone done this?  It sounds like you may be opening an area for mud and grime to get in.  Or have I misinterpreted the set of instructions?

Thanks, Bradshaw