Hi guys. New to the site. Amazing how much stuff is out there for these zuks. But did some searching and did not really see what i was looking for. This is for a buddy that is not as computer savy. Hes got a 4dr kick with scout 44's,stock knuckles with the drag link and the tie rod switched(drag link behind tie rod,they go to the passenger knuckle)everything else is stock on the steering. So my question finally is that he can barely turn the thing. My bronco can turn way tighter than his zuk. Now he is looking to make a longer pitman arm or maybe a steering box swap. Does the toyota ifs box turn farther or is he better going with a scout box(which he has already). It looks like it would be some work to put the scout box on but it has a very long pitman arm. Any help would be appreciated.

Is it with the steering box not turning far enough or is he using the closed knuckle 44 from the Scout?  Depending on the year he might have that one.

If you throw it up on Jack stands and disconnect the steering how much further do the axles turn?  I have seen Dana 44s using the Tracker steering box without problems with the steering throw.

    It is open knuckle from a 77 scout II. Ya when you disconnect the drag link the axle will turn much farther. When first assembled the steering wheel was way off center. At that point he could steer real tight to the right and not much at all to the left. Now that everything is centered. Just does not steer either way very good. On original scout set up the drag link was ahead of the tie rod on the passenger knuckle. Thats why i said about he swapped already to get a better ratio on it. But still horrible steering.
 
   To give ya guys a little more info it is still leafs under with 3" national springs(samy springs) with probably 2" lift shackles in the front. No dropped pitman arm. So it has real bad bump steer also.

Ha just figured i would give you guys a heads up. We started watching the axle as he would turn it and the axle was moving around side to side. So we installed a adjustable track bar. Man what a difference in the way it steeres and goes down the road. Turning radius is not the best but livable now. Much less bump steer also. Probably go with a dropped pitman arm and call it quits. Then he wants hydro steer so the work never ends haha.

There's some good suspension geometry diagrams on line too.one thing about it is the physics of suspension geometry is constant so get all angles in check it should drive great. Mainly Check draglink and Ackerman angles also on scout II front axles (from memory) have a funky caster angle from the factory. I used one of these axles once upon a time and remember if being the hardest axle to tune. I had to have the knuckles turned. Hope this helps

Good to know you figured it out. 

There's some good suspension geometry diagrams on line too.one thing about it is the physics of suspension geometry is constant so get all angles in check it should drive great. Mainly Check draglink and Ackerman angles also on scout II front axles (from memory) have a funky caster angle from the factory. I used one of these axles once upon a time and remember if being the hardest axle to tune. I had to have the knuckles turned. Hope this helps

Thanks for the extra info. I will have him look up some diagrams and see what we could change to make it a little better. Ya i remeber a couple of my buddies scout II's and they didnt turn the best either. I think eventually he will go with a crossover steering and flaten out the extended arm to get a lttle more travel. So we will see.