Well first off, don't drive in 4wd on dry pavement, water or wet is not good
either but it's better, you want the tires to slip some to prevent binding and
other driveline problems.

With this type of setup you could remove the CV axles and drive the truck without
them in place, but your bearings are shot, and the blue spindles are suspect, so I
would start by replacing anything that is discolored severely.

You need to remove the races also, always replace both parts when you do bearings.

Hand tight like you said should not be heating up like that, so there are friction
problems in there and it's the bearings and races. Also the spindle should not move around
like there is a worn part, make sure the strut bolts are tight, the only other parts that wear
is the lower ball joint, or the taper in the knuckle is roached out and the knuckle is junk, the
spindle also is bolted to the knuckle, so check those bolts too, they are the ones that hold
the brake backing plate on.

Explain the front wheels shaking with the e-brake on? this 4wd system wants to drive the front
and rear drive shaft at the same time, there is no center diff.

What he said, and I think the spindles should have no play whatsoever.

Sorrry I used the wrong term in saying spindle, thats all tight and stuff.  Just the axle coming threw it has a bit of play in it.

I had it off all the wheels and in 4 HI  with the ebrake on the front tires dont turn smoothly. They kind of shake up and down,  but I think I might be getting a little too paranoid now.

Ill pull it off and change the races and get new bearings, since the parts I got are from the wreckers.  That way Ill know for sure  and have a look at the CV's too.

Where can I get a the races and bearings in a kit ?  or what are the ones to get.

  

Your plan sounds good, I do not know a brand, but if you just go to NAPA and get the good stuff it should do fine.  As always wait for Bent and Wild to weigh in before you pull the trigger.  As a general rule, unless you have no choice, if you are dealing with a wear part, go new or at least reman.  If you don't then you are getting a wear part that has all the unknown miles of the donor vehicle.  You are getting near the fix, hang in there.

Yeah, I guess it doesn't make to much sense to put on a used water pump or used brakes    The race on my hubs were obviously mangled (rusted, scrored) the other ones I got looked pretty nice but who knows the miles, like you say.

At least I have my old hubs and I can get new races put in with no down time.  Ill keep an eye out for a kit with races and everything on these forums.

Its not a huge problem but sometimes it sucks hammering at the same thing over and over again... just  a matter of time before I just break down and buy a new car.  35 and never had a new one  :'(  lots of busted knuckles tho  

I feel your pain.  78 F-250 4x4, 96 Tracker, and the "new car" my wife drives 2000 Mazda.  I have only purchased one new car and that was 20 years ago when we got married.  I will never (unless I win the Lotto) buy another new car again.  There are just too many people out there willing the take that depreciation hit for me.   If you are in a hurry to get it done send Wild or Bent an email by clicking the envelope under their name.  Both of those guys are awesome about helping us not so technical wrenchers out.

Hey buddy, don't hold your breath waiting for me to chime in with my 2cents worth. I may be off to god knows where! Besides, Medford gives me too much credit I think. 
sohip, usually you can go to any reputable auto parts store and get the bearing kits over the counter. I was able to buy mine at Autozone and they were a stock item. Not cheap, but with each bearing set you get the race ( one piece ) and both inner and outer bearings. Don't forget to get the seals too. You'll have to remove the rear seal to get to the circlip holding the inside bearing in, usually rendering it to the shitcan. I have been able to save 'em occasionally but why take the chance. There are 2 seals on the inner part of the hub ( side facing diff .) An inner seal for the bearing itself, and an outer seal that protects the back of the cv. I've sometimes had a hard time finding the outer one, but do replace BOTH. If you don't possess  the right tools to do the seals correctly or don't have access to a press or knowledge or daring  to pound them in ( I just cringe thinkin' about that ) just get the parts and take them into a local shop with your hubs and let them do it.

Hey Medford, all I can say is me too. Both my wife and I drive 10 year old vehicles, 00 Ford PU, 00 MB 230 Kompressor, at least she bought her's new. Heck my Trackers a 95, my Harley's an 88, and the camper I just got is an 82! I'd love to get something modern!

Ill call around and see what the tally is.  But it would be a lot easier to go down to Honda, drop 400 bucks and drive home in a new Element   

The only problem with that is having to drop that $400 every month,
I hate car payments, my primary mover is a 91 Chevy truck, the Zuk is
older by 2 years and has almost as many miles, the "new" car is an 02
Malibu, but only cause some #$|removethispart|@%#$ stole the 98 Cavalier and drove
is like they stole it, my new camper is a '76 but it was free 

On a sad note, the Chevy started making a whining noise in the transmission,
up and down with engine speed, I think it's the pump but I'm not sure, shifts
ok but tonight on the way home it wouldn't shift into overdrive on the freeway
 

Any Chevrolet experts out there? If it were my Suzuki I would know what it was

Wild

Bent- every stinking thread I read that is of interest to me you are there helping some pour guy out of a jam.  I don't think too much credit has been given, keep it up.  Like the ripple in a pond, even if you were not talking directly to me I learn from what you coach.
Wild- all I can say is Ford! Like a 1978 F-250 super cab with a 4" Skyjacker lift and a gas sucking over built 460!   This is my tow vehicle that is expensive to fill up, but as reliable as a good dog.  This is almost as big as a debate among firemen as Gerber verses Leatherman.  In all seriousness I pray your Chevy woes are cheap and easy.  Thanks for all the help you provide all of us non zuki guys!

I have a Ford F-350 Crewcab tow/fun truck, but I didn't want to
subject it to work duty, and the 460 is nice, but I got a 444 also
known as PowerStroke  pulls like a beast, about 12 MPG loaded
going to Moab

Wild

12 mpg to Utah, I bet it is the same to Plush, Oregon.   Let me know when that turbo will be there.  I will make every effort to come see it and take my own pics of your center link.

Thanks Medford, kind words for sure. GO FORDS!

Hey small world.  I got a 444 too.  2002 PSD 7.3 crew short SRW.  The 4R100 is blown out of it and Im doing a ZF6 swap this winter (I got a "spare" donor truck).  Thats is my "new" vehicle but has been a lawn orniment for over a year now.  Gotta get by with the $600 sidekick.  I must confess I do love the "light" feel of the sidekicks and the fuel economy 

A few questions (don't take these the wrong way...I don't know your mechanical background...so that is why I am asking).
Do you know how to repack wheel bearings?  What method do you use?
If you jack a front wheel off the ground and rock the wheel (top and bottom and side to side), is there any play at all?
Did you keep the bearings matched up with their races, when you swapped them?
If you spin the front wheels, with them off the ground, do they spin smoothly, without any unusual noises?

As long as the bearing rollers and races are not discolored....and.... 
If the bearing rollers and the bearing surface of the races are smooth and not pitted.....and.....
If the bearings don't have any obvious damage to them (bent cage is the most common).......
then they are likely good.