I have read good reviews about the Aussie Lockers... but apparently they don't manufacture them for Suzuki/Tracker vehicles. Chevrolet, Fords, Dodge, Jeeps yes, Suzuki... no.   I wrote a note to the president of Aussie Lockers  (Bill Cole) asking if Aussie does market their lockers somewhere for Suzukis or if they have plans to in the near future.  You can pull his name down on the drop-down bar where it says "General Inquiry" after you enter your contact info.  Thought possibly some others might be interested in the Aussie Locker for their Suzuki/Tracker and contact Aussie locker (Bill Cole) too.


http://www.aussielocker.com/contact.php/TMb0ce62/b124/.html

we had one in the front of our toy axle that was in our old sas kick, it was GREAT!  also, customer service, get this, we bought the locker new used, but used none the less, and we had problems installing it, so i gave them a call and they sent me out a NEW one.

turns out they are so beefy, that they don't always fit in all toy carriers without a bit of machining.

but ya, to bad they dont make ones for zukes.

I know!!!  That's what I hear all the time on the Aussie Locker.  They stand behind their warranty because their stuff is pretty much bullet proof and works as advertised.  I got the standard I'm a busy executive response from Bill Cole:

"Thank you for your interest in our lockers.  Currently we do not make a locker for the Suzuki/Tracker vehicle".

But I'm going to continue to dawg him on this issue.   Feel free to jump on.

i would.......... if i still had suzuki axles LOL

I think it's a sales volume issue.

If you have a Tracker/Kick, Sami, or early Vit then you just get a Lock Right.  They're cheap and work.  Aussie Locker has decided they don't want to expand into that market becuase they probably can't get a large enough share to make it worthwhile.

Same reason they're not making anything for an actual GM axle.  Nothing in the Australian market runs a GM 10 bolt or 14 bolt Full Floater in large quantities.  Dana axles appear in everything so they're wise to make stuff for the Dana 30, 35, 44, 60, etc.

Is '02 where the rear axle changed and we can't use the stuff that fits the older Suzukis?

That may be.  Calmini advertises their LSD for 99 thru 02 Trackers.  But... may also be they have not explored an '03 or '04 to see if there are any changes.  I really don't know.

That may be.  Calmini advertises their LSD for 99 thru 02 Trackers.  But... may also be they have not explored an '03 or '04 to see if there are any changes.  I really don't know.

Yeah...I don't think CALMINI did much research on GVs after 2002.  Hell, they only list the lift kit for 1999-2004 Grand Vitaras.  I don't think they're even aware that the first Generation US market GVs were made in 2005, too.  2006 marked the arrival of the second generation GVs in the US (unibody-type design).  Honestly, I don't think CALMINI gives a rat's ass about the Grand Vitara.  They'll still be focusing on the Sami, Trackers and Kicks 20 years from now.  I don't think they realize that some people need to outfit SUVs that can actually hold 4 people and gear.  Not all of us are single guys heading out into the desert to go rock-crawling in a heavily modified Sami.  Oh well....enough with my CALMINI rant.

Calmini's stuff sucks anyway.  Stiff riding and over priced.

I still want to get ahold of one of their LSDs for the rear diff, though.  I believe they are actually Suzuki OEM LSDs.  I drive on snow covered roads far more than I am on trails so a LSD would be better/safer for my sorry-ass.  

I got my paws on a complete Sammy rear end a couple weeks ago and my next project is to copy some of the work that brdhunter (I think) and a couple other guys did for their 1st gen trucks and make a working steel front diff for a 2nd Gen truck to install in the front of Buster.  If I can successfully mod the Sammy rear into a working front IFS housing then I'm going to use the Sammy carrier to mount my 4.88 gears into and then install a lock-rite in the front diff.  So... I will have an LSD when in 2 wheel drive and I can actually attain 3 wheel drive with the front locked in or just lock one front hub and have a safe 2 wheel drive for the snow.  That's what I'm thinking.

I'm $50 into the project so far.  Figure I'll have at least $400 more in it IF I can complete most of the cuts and tacking metal myself.  If it works... I will have saved over $250 bucks over if I had bought a steel GV housing from the local pick-n-pull and would have still had to swap the ring and pinion gears in it.  If it doesn't work out... well I'll be out about $450 bucks... I guess.

I'm fortunate to live near "Norm Day's Marathon" in Middletown Indiana.  He use to race on the pro-street and funny cars circuit in the 70s and 80s with the likes of Tommy Ivo, Don Garletts and a lot of other historical drag racers.  Norm has literally forgotten more about engines, trannys, diffs, ring and pinion set-ups and other car related info than anyone else I know. I'm going to use him for setting up the diff gears. He's in his 70s now but every morning he opens his station at 0600 sharp.  He's a really cool guy and he is still on top of it with his knowledge.

I got my paws on a complete Sammy rear end a couple weeks ago and my next project is to copy some of the work that brdhunter (I think) and a couple other guys did for their 1st gen trucks and make a working steel front diff for a 2nd Gen truck to install in the front of Buster.  If I can successfully mod the Sammy rear into a working front IFS housing then I'm going to use the Sammy carrier to mount my 4.88 gears into and then install a lock-rite in the front diff.  So... I will have an LSD when in 2 wheel drive and I can actually attain 3 wheel drive with the front locked in or just lock one front hub and have a safe 2 wheel drive for the snow.  That's what I'm thinking.

I'm $50 into the project so far.  Figure I'll have at least $400 more in it IF I can complete most of the cuts and tacking metal myself.  If it works... I will have saved over $250 bucks over if I had bought a steel GV housing from the local pick-n-pull and would have still had to swap the ring and pinion gears in it.  If it doesn't work out... well I'll be out about $450 bucks... I guess.

Other than machining the one side of the diff., (or buying one already modified) it should not cost that much.  I know they are pricey, but the ARB up front is awesome, and they DO NOT need to be machined.  Even unlocked, they work better than an open diff. 
The most complicated part of the build, was getting the mounts attached properly (and if you are hard core I would make new linkages). 
Also do not trim down the bottom of diff to save 1 +/-" of clearance it is easy to warp the face and takes a lot of filing to get it to not leak oil.

  Even unlocked, they work better than an open diff. 

Huh?  Explain that please?

ROGER that, Brd Hntr.  That was the one part of the fabrication I intended to forego.  I can live with a little lip of the diff hanging a bit lower.  A skid will protect that part.

Quote from: BRD HNTR on September 23, 2010, 08:54:05 AM

  Even unlocked, they work better than an open diff. 

Huh?  Explain that please?

It seems to act somewhat like a limited slip.  May be the spring to unload the locking mechanism creates drag keeping both sides engaged.  Just seems to have more pull with both wheels when unlocked than my open diff did.
As I got mine used, I never got the paperwork (just a great deal).

Should be fully open when not engaged.  That's their big draw.  If yours is doing something else than there's something wrong with it.