well couldn't find any install pictorials on line so here one is, probably not the best but it should help.
 
first step is to get the case out and on the bench.

remove the shifter cover

remove roll pin (careful to not drop it in to t/case) (I used a magnet to catch it)

remove large nut on side below shift tower, (remove and discard spring,detent ball and machined t shaped "thingy" you cas see it in middle pic)(its in the cast shift rail hub just back of the roll pin)

remove nut, spring and detent ball from top of case directly above the range rail, there are two identical detent bolts (remove passenger side)

NEXT>>>>>

turn t/case around, now looking at the front.

remove locking tab on lower gear cluster

remove all bolts

simply pull apart (careful not to loose little steel balls on shaft)

remove lower gear cluster in one piece (there is another steel ball on rear)

gently pull out range rail with fork and engaging ring.

ALL THAT JUST TO GET WHAT.........

put a magnet down the range shifter hole, about 1" down you will find the pesky "center detent ball" (or "pill) yep that's what your after!

assemble in reverse order.

next...

remove the shifter sheet (little plastic ring found under stock shifter)

fit the shifters in to there new home.

I used rock4x's shifters and am very happy with the product and tech support the owner Scott is a good guy.

I had to take the shifters apart and put the boot and rings on from the bottom because of the way I bent my levers. FYI

GENTLY tap the lubed base in to shifter tower (making sure the shift sheet is removed)

put on boot and set screws as per rock4x's instructions.

in a nut shell your done!!!  
I will finish the interior when I do the interior resto I have planned.

a couple other useless things....

on my shifters I used heat shrink tubing to add another element of sound/vibration proofing.
the boot is a aftermarket Dana 300 unit.

and here's a pic of the discarded parts from the t/case internals. detent balls (1 from between the rails and 1 from the large nut just below the shifter tower) detent spring and pill both also from large nut below tower. and the shifter sheet.

I do want to say these shifters are sweet!!  soooo..crisp and positive, worth every penny! I think there half worn out just from shifting them a million times in the shop!!LOL

I hope this posting is of some value. 

Those do look good.  Makes me want to have a set, maybe after I the Tracker running again.  Your photo's make it look easy.

Good stuff... Thanks for the details.

Zig
TP up

ah heck your rig don't need to run brd hntr (mine don't, just sit in 'er make motor noises and shift those sticks!!)
and it really is easy, if I figured it out anyone can. I have anotherone to do out here soon so I will take better (uncluttered)  pics.

ah heck your rig don't need to run brd hntr (mine don't, just sit in 'er make motor noises and shift those sticks!!)
and it really is easy, if I figured it out anyone can. I have anotherone to do out here soon so I will take better (uncluttered)  pics.

Here is a sample of my motor noise.  the motor does run full time now, just need to get rest of wiring, drive line, etc.
http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/TrackerEngineSwap#5495273182673007586

Those are still cool sticks.

 Ya' know, if you guys DON'T stop showing off your latest and greatest gadgets and ideas, I "might" be able to get somewhere with my build A WHOLE LOT sooner.     Very helpful for another upgrade to my "Rhino".

Thanks a lot, I'm doing this soon, as soon as my transfer case arrives.  Already got the sticks.  Want it in ASAP so I can drive this damn thing!  September is almost here...

Thanks for the detailed Right up Jared

-Scott

The left stick is 2-4, and the right stick controls L-N-H, correct?
Does anyone have a diagram of this shift pattern?

2wd           Low
                 N
4wd           High

 

That's the exact pattern that I was picturing, just by looking at the shift rods and comparing their positions to the old pattern on the knob.  Thanks for spelling it out like that