For anyone that has broken the mounting ear on the front third member on there Sidekick or Tracker, I have the solution. The pinion collar bolts into the factory mount on the crossmember and clamps around the pinion snout. You will need to grind of whatever is left of you broken mount so that it will clamp tightly. I sell them for $80. Here are a couple of pictures (the ones I sell are powder coated) If you have any questions post them here or e-mail me at SRCUSTOMS|removethispart||removethispart||removethispart|@shaw.ca

Very Nice work! Hey, what ever happened with my Coil adapters?

That's great for before you break one off, but the problem is when
one breaks, it usually rips the nose cone open too, ruining the 3rd
member.

This will work if you add it before the mayhem begins, also under
enough stress this collar might twist on the snout too, being this
is steel you can't weld it to the aluminum diff

Wild

Very Nice work! Hey, what ever happened with my Coil adapters?

Thanks

As for the spacers I put my set in and was not happy with it, just that little extra lift put my cv's to where I was not comfortable. I changed my plan and am going to mod the original coil bucket to fit the new coils

That's great for before you break one off, but the problem is when
one breaks, it usually rips the nose cone open too, ruining the 3rd
member.

This will work if you add it before the mayhem begins, also under
enough stress this collar might twist on the snout too, being this
is steel you can't weld it to the aluminum diff

Wild

This collar is actually designed to use after you pinion mount on the third member breaks, if if doesn't wreck the complete third housing, and from all the broken ones I've seen they usually just break the ear where the two bolts run through.
When the collar is installed and torqued around the pinion it can not twist. We built and installed one of these over a year ago and have had no problem with it. Like anything I sell I always test it before I  sell it.
You can see in the photo below how the ear usually breaks off, all you do is simply grind off what ever is left of it so it is round and simple bolt the pinion collar on, it uses the factory bolt holes in the mount on the crossmember. once it is tight it can't move and your as good as new.

Quote from: bentparts on June 22, 2010, 07:17:36 AM

Very Nice work! Hey, what ever happened with my Coil adapters?

Thanks

As for the spacers I put my set in and was not happy with it, just that little extra lift put my cv's to where I was not comfortable. I changed my plan and am going to mod the original coil bucket to fit the new coils

That's not an issue for me, I can always shorten the coils a bit, and besides, mine's set up for more lift in the front. I'm already running Calmini coils with a 1" spacer. Now they're sagging again and I want to install the FOA's.

Quote from: MUD CHILD on June 22, 2010, 01:19:07 PM

Quote from: bentparts on June 22, 2010, 07:17:36 AM

Very Nice work! Hey, what ever happened with my Coil adapters?

Thanks

As for the spacers I put my set in and was not happy with it, just that little extra lift put my cv's to where I was not comfortable. I changed my plan and am going to mod the original coil bucket to fit the new coils

That's not an issue for me, I can always shorten the coils a bit, and besides, mine's set up for more lift in the front. I'm already running Calmini coils with a 1" spacer. Now they're sagging again and I want to install the FOA's.

PM sent

Looks very nice, and practical too.  I'll have to keep this in mind IF I ever break mine.  Or maybe buy one to keep in the spare parts kit for the trail.
If you carry a grinder, and have this as a spare part, it could definitely get you home in a jiffy!  Good job!

There are a couple of variations you could consider for the collar.

How about one that is designed to work with the standard mount and adds a second factory mount on the other side to attach to the crossmember. this would decrease the chance of a breakage enormously.

Another variation would be for use with Sammi housings using two of the Factory crossmember mounts, one each side.

I and some others have done something similar as a preventive measure to ward off breakage in the first place. I have to admit, my brace is not near the quality of this one, but they DO work. I've been running a braced and secured aluminum front diff with an ARB locker for years now with no damage and I do get it in some pretty severe situations. The only suggestion I would make is to extend the mounting as cj suggested, to connect with the crossmember on the opposite side.  Maybe offer two styles, one for already broken ears, and one to prevent broken mounts. I would have bought this in a minute if it was available. I think your on to something here. 

There are a couple of variations you could consider for the collar.

How about one that is designed to work with the standard mount and adds a second factory mount on the other side to attach to the crossmember. this would decrease the chance of a breakage enormously.

Another variation would be for use with Sammi housings using two of the Factory crossmember mounts, one each side.

I and some others have done something similar as a preventive measure to ward off breakage in the first place. I have to admit, my brace is not near the quality of this one, but they DO work. I've been running a braced and secured aluminum front diff with an ARB locker for years now with no damage and I do get it in some pretty severe situations. The only suggestion I would make is to extend the mounting as cj suggested, to connect with the crossmember on the opposite side.  Maybe offer two styles, one for already broken ears, and one to prevent broken mounts. I would have bought this in a minute if it was available. I think your on to something here. 

The reason that there is not a solid mount on the other side is it doesn't need one. We built one of these over a year ago and installed it on my buddy's kick. It has had the living |removethispart|@%#* kick out of it and there has never been a problem. When we built it we looked at having it mounted on both side but the problem is the is no room to drill through the crossmember from the top side, you have to do it from the bottom. In order to do so you must disassemble the pass side suspension so you can move the lower control arm out of the way to get a drill in there. This is way more work that most people are willing to do, and once again it is not necessary. That is why we tested the prototype for a year before selling them.

The real test is not driving the #%$ out of the Track/Kick, I've done that,
it's doing it in reverse, that's when it will break.

Wild

The real test is not driving the #%$ out of the Track/Kick, I've done that,
it's doing it in reverse, that's when it will break.

Wild

Yes I know that. the pinion what's to rotate upwards while in reverse. It's had plenty of full throttle reverse runs during the coarse of the last year and no problem. I would not sell something that does not work.

OK....OK  You passed the Wild Test 

It may not NEED the extension opposite of the mounting ear, but I still think it offers better support and more even distribution of the load on the pinion output. JMO.