But for trackicks you can run the 8.5" clutch on any flywheel, even if it originally had a 7.9" clutch on it.

Has anyone actually done this, personally?  Put a 16v 8.5" clutch on an 8v trackick?  I mean, I appreciate the advice, but I would hate to buy a larger one and not have it work, then I have to deal with return, exchange, etc...

Quote from: Skyhiranger on June 17, 2010, 09:52:35 AM

But for trackicks you can run the 8.5" clutch on any flywheel, even if it originally had a 7.9" clutch on it.

Has anyone actually done this, personally?  Put a 16v 8.5" clutch on an 8v trackick?  I mean, I appreciate the advice, but I would hate to buy a larger one and not have it work, then I have to deal with return, exchange, etc...

I have done the opposite.....ran a 7.9" clutch on a trackick that originally had an 8.5" clutch.  The reason I did that was because the 8.5 was toast and I had an extra 7.9" around.
As I said, the flywheels are identical between an 8V and 16V 1.6 trackick....so either clutch will work on them.
Oh, and the trannys are identical, from a bellhousing and input shaft standpoint, so no issue there either.
I'm telling you, it will work.

My buddy who works at the auto parts store said that they are all identical...the spline count, flywheel, etc are all identical, but he can't "officially" recommend the part since his computer doesn't "show" that it will work, so that's why I turned here to make sure.
I just got off the phone with Hawk Suzuki and they said the same thing, that they are perfectly interchangeable.
I was just looking for peace of mind, and I'm gonna get the 8.5" cause it's only $10 more to upgrade.
Thanks, again, for the help




P.S.    +1 to Skyhiranger for digging up the technical specs for me.  Thanks

Updated.  Got a Sachs stock-type replacement kit from local shop, the larger 8.5".  Should grab better.
Got it all out today, and the old one is smoothed down almost to the rivets in a few spots.
Old clutch is marked "DK", anyone know if that could be the original clutch from years ago?
Should have it put together again tomorrow, but I'm going to take my time and have the flywheel resurfaced, and check out the rear main seal while I'm at it...I have a lot of oil leaking lately and it's making a mess of everything.

Updated.  Got a Sachs stock-type replacement kit from local shop, the larger 8.5".  Should grab better.
Got it all out today, and the old one is smoothed down almost to the rivets in a few spots.
Old clutch is marked "DK", anyone know if that could be the original clutch from years ago?
Should have it put together again tomorrow, but I'm going to take my time and have the flywheel resurfaced, and check out the rear main seal while I'm at it...I have a lot of oil leaking lately and it's making a mess of everything.

Good call on having the flywheel resurfaced.  I always do that anytime I put a new clutch in.
I'd go ahead and replace the rear main....you are there, and it isn't expensive to do.  Saves you having to drop the tranny again later.  You could also look at the distributor and the oil pan as sources for leaks....both are pretty common places for leaks.

I'm pretty sure I have a leak at the dist. too, I've noticed that from the start since I bought it last April.  I thought at first that my clutch was saturated with oil because of all the oil dripping from the dizzy on the bellhousing, and when I would drive it to the mountains it would slip at first (from not being driven much/city driving) but by the time I got it "warmed up" from an hour at freeway speeds it wouldn't slip at all.
That theory proved wrong yesterday when I finally got the trans. out; the clutch area was DRY and had NO oil residue on it.  It was just burned up pretty bad lol my mistake.

Good call on having the flywheel resurfaced.  I always do that anytime I put a new clutch in.

I did a quick search yesterday and found you stating that a few times to other people.  Figured it was a good idea, and after removing the trans/t-case as a whole unit yesterday, I DON'T want to have to do it again because I overlooked something.  So yes, rear main will be replaced too since it's accessible.
I figure, replace rear main, dist. o-ring, and check tightness in general (esp. oil pan since it looks leaky) and then drop in a quart of that oil stabilizer/stop leak and see if it's enough to get rid of my mess.  I don't have a "trickle" or "drip" of oil ever, just a lot of residual in general...so whatever is leaking isn't leaking very bad, just a small leak *IMO

If I was doing it, I would drop the oil pan completely, clean the surfaces up, put some rtv/silicone on it, and put it back on and torque the bolts down to spec.  It should never leak again, if you do it right.  I wouldn't run any stop leak in it, fix it the right way.  DO NOT use a cork gasket on the oil pan either.

Does Fel-Pro or anyone make a quality gasket for the oil pan (rubber/poly instead of RTV sealant)?

How would I know if my FRONT main bearing has a leak?  I'd have to take apart all the timing, wouldn't I?

I'll look into it; I'm almost due up for an oil change, and I don't think I need to remove anything to get to the oil pan bolts (I took apart a Mazda B-series truck engine a few months back and you had to remove the timing cover and EVERYTHING else to remove the last few bolts in the oil pan.  NOT FUN).

I'll most likely do what I can now while I have the trans out, and if it still leaks, run some stop-leak.  Better than nothing, but has anyone tried something like this???

Thanks for the quick reply.

Does Fel-Pro or anyone make a quality gasket for the oil pan (rubber/poly instead of RTV sealant)?

How would I know if my FRONT main bearing has a leak?  I'd have to take apart all the timing, wouldn't I?

I'll look into it; I'm almost due up for an oil change, and I don't think I need to remove anything to get to the oil pan bolts (I took apart a Mazda B-series truck engine a few months back and you had to remove the timing cover and EVERYTHING else to remove the last few bolts in the oil pan.  NOT FUN).

I'll most likely do what I can now while I have the trans out, and if it still leaks, run some stop-leak.  Better than nothing, but has anyone tried something like this???

Thanks for the quick reply.

RTV is what suzuki uses to seal the pan, so why use anything else?
You would have to at least pull the timing cover off, to get to the front main area.  Then, you still may not be able to determine if it is leaking, unless you pull the timing gear....then you still may not be able to tell.  A lot of times the oil pan leak will seep upwards into under the timing cover, so it can be pretty hard to tell if the front main is leaking.
Most places and people will tell you that you have to remove the front axle assembly to drop the oil pan.  I will tell you that you do NOT have to drop the front axle.  I have removed 1.6 16V oil pans without dropping the front axle (or raising the engine).  Once you get the oil pan loose, you have to spin it 180* and work it off over the oil pickup tube.

I'll try.  My front diff has been dropped a little bit by the Calmini lift so I hope that will give my +/- 1/2" or so extra room to work with.  I didn't think I would have to remove the front axle, it looked last night like I had a lot of room.  Hope I can do it because I don't want to remove the front axle...took a lot of work to do it last time and I wouldn't want to mess with it again.

Sounds like I don't want to consider checking the front main seal.

RTV is what suzuki uses to seal the pan, so why use anything else?

Okay I was wondering about that last night when I saw the RTV around the pan.  I figured somebody else did it and didn't use a gasket.  So it's probably original.

Gray is the original stuff, other colors is somebody working on it

Wild

Gray is the original stuff, other colors is somebody working on it

Wild

Unless they use gray too.

Mine's orange 
Got the flywheel reground tonight.  It has some "heat marks" where it appears the flywheel either got too hot from the clutch, or it's a re-man'ed flywheel that was welded.  Resurfacing looks good, but I'm going to use my random orbit sander and some 600grit to swirl it (they said "non-directional" pattern).
Gonna use standard black RTV, also got the rear main bearing seal tonight (it's a kit, it has a gasket for the cover too.  I was told to load up that gasket with RTV in addition to the gasket when I install it.
Gonna work long shifts the next three days so I'll be back on this Monday!

It has some "heat marks" where it appears the flywheel either got too hot from the clutch, or it's a re-man'ed flywheel that was welded.  Resurfacing looks good, but I'm going to use my random orbit sander and some 600grit to swirl it (they said "non-directional" pattern).

So this is what I was talking about.  Nothing is put back together still, so I wanted to take a few pictures of this.  Anyone know what it is?  I don't want to put this whole thing back together and have these "spots" affect the new clutch and tear into the friction surface.  The flywheel was turned on a brake machine, and these spots showed up, like they're a harder metal.  Someone says they think it could have been a remanufactured flywheel, and those are welds that filled up cracks.  The other idea is that the clutch was too hot.  But, there's similar marks on the pressure plate, too.  As described above, I'm going to use 600 grit on the surface, any suggestions on this?  600 seems really fine, wouldn't I want the surface slightly rougher?
Like I said, I only want to do this once, so it best be right the first time. 
Tell me what yall think of these pictures: 
(and let me know if it looks BAD enough to NEED a new flywheel...)

Looks like heat spots to me.  They likely won't tear into the friction plate, they will likely become really smooth and slick, the more you use your clutch.
If you are going to sand the flywheel, I would use something rougher than 600 grit.  100 grit probably won't hurt anything.  I assume you are doing that, to try to get the "rings" off the surface that the brake lathe left?
For future reference, and for anyone else reading.....if you ever have a flywheel resurfaced, try to find a place that "grinds" the flywheel.  What that is is a machine that had abrasive pads on it that grinds the flywheel to resurface it.  It moves in a small circular motion and therefore doesn't groove the flywheel, like a brake lathe will.  It leaves a nice "swirly" surface on the flywheel and is better than having a flywheel turned on a brake lathe.