Hi Jow003,
Several things:
1. Download the factory service manual here:
http://www.acksfaq.com/86-87_410_FSM.htm. The carb section is at the end of Part #1 (the manual is downloaded in 3 parts).
2. Use this guide to help with disassembly:
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=21551.0;wap2. It will talk you through an "in place" card disassembly and cleaning. It's supposed to have photos along with the written instructions, but they're seem to have never gotten posted to the page.
3. Take detailed photos of everything before disconnecting any linkages, cables, hoses, or lines.
4. If your carb is still on the vehicle place some kind of tarp under your working area to catch any parts that may fall on the ground (there are lots of small screws, springs, etc.). Also, I placed a sheet around the carb itself (kinda like doing surgery) to prevent dropping and losing parts inside the engine compartment. It may sound like overkill, but if you've ever dropped the critical little (and I mean little) spring that is part of the accelerator pump assembly, you'd appreciate the extra 5 minutes it took to cover the engine compartment with a sheet.
5. Speaking of accelerator pump springs, you will get to a point in the cleaning where you will need to remove parts of the accelerator pump assembly. There are many ways to get these parts out of the carb. One suggestion is compressed air. Don't do it. These parts are so small that even a tiny blast of air can send them flying. I used a set of jeweler's needle nose pliers (very long and thin jaws) to get to as many of the parts as I could. I then used a small piece of chewing gum (you gotta chew it first) on the end of a long and very thin straight-slot screwdriver to remove the lower parts and valve check balls.
6. Get yourself a cheap set of guitar strings which will be used to clean the various passageways and jets in the carb. I recommend getting either light or extra-light gauge strings since the Hitachi carb has several near microscopic passages, ports and jets that will need to be cleaned. You should only need to use the straight steel strings (G, B, and E) and not the brass/bronze wrapped strings for cleaning purposes.
That's it. Proceed carefully, take notes/photos, keep track of the parts. It took me about 2 hours start to finish to get my carb cleaned up and my Samurai runs soooo much better now! Good luck!
Cliffhanger_MT
P.S.- One last thing, most of the crud in my carb didn't come from the fuel system--it came from moisture leaking down the accelerator pump plunger shaft and then settling in the bottom of the accelerator pump chamber where it started to corrode the aluminum of the carb body. That crap then got circulated throughout the carb and clogged things up. I replaced the badly deteriorated boot and all seems fine now.