I want to tow samurai wheels down behind the motorhome, but have never done or seen such a thing up close.
so i have some questions like what unit should i use, where can i get it for a good price?, and most importanly can i get it to me in bc.
i am prety sure that i want to tow with the tow bar on the motorhome so i dont have junk in the way of my vision.
any info or experence you guys can share is greatly apreciated!

I've flat-towed my Zuk to AK and NL (from near LA) over the last few years behind a motorhome -- over 40K miles in all. I chose a Blue Ox Aladdin (aluminum) tow bar and their steel baseplate.  Not cheap, but then.... I fitted a US Gear (UTB) tow brake, so I can just get in and drive away.  I did not want to fiddle with a "Brake Buddy".  (I also use another UTB on a Honda CR-V that I sometimes tow. The same MH controller operates either/both.)   
 
Initially, I followed the Suzuki instructions for towing. But when I added a small lift & 4:1 T-case, I installed a twin-stick shifter to get a true (2WD) neutral (otherwise the front driveshaft spins at freeway speeds, not a good thing!).  I'm now experimenting with selecting 4th gear on the transmission, instead of 2nd, for towing and it saved my engine last month when I left the T-case in hi-range for 60 miles (Big Oops!).

I did not install a driveline disconnect 'cause the rear driveline still spins and I did not want to put a hole in my floor pan. I figured spinning the shaft on the disconnect bearing or the rear T-case output bearing is about the same -- it's still spinning. Removing the rear driveshaft is the safest method, but I just can't be doing that every day for 3 months while on travel.  I've only dropped ther rear driveshaft once, in Death Valley, when a U-joint started to go. I drove around in front wheel drive and eventually hitched up and towed it home to fix.
 
We'd like to go back to BC and YK again, but it's gonna have to wait. Some friends are going (again) this summer; I'd love to be joining them.   

My Samurai came with one of these Trail Tough driveline disconnects installed... not cheap, but super easy to use.
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=89&category_id=12&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

Here are the instructions on how to flat tow from Petroworks wesite :
http://www.petroworks.com/pdf/How%20to%20Flat%20Tow%20a%20Samurai.pdf

I tow with the Trail Tough towbar. It is nothing fancy but works for me. It can be easily taken apart and stored. It also can be configured to drop or rise from the Samurai front bumer to the towing vehicles rear bumper. The tube is not straight between the vehicles, it has an arch that can be flipped. I have an aftermarket front bumper but the ad says it will work with a stock bumper as well. The towbar hooks up at a height of 25" on my Samurai front bumper and a height of 17" on my tow vehicle. With a a normal flat towbar it would be at too much of an angle according to alot of the manufature's towbar manuals. The Trail Tough towbar has just enough curve to mount up and attach at both vehicles almost level.
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=163&category_id=16&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

Do a search for flat tow at Ack's FAQ (the link is in my signature, below) for a list of links mentioned above along with others that might prove helpful.

I would like to add three things:

No matter what anyone says, connecting a towbar directly to the stock Samurai bumper is an incredibly stupid thing to do!
You will rip the bumper off and destroy your Samurai.

Always attach a towbar directly to the front of the Samurai frame using the four bolt holes provided - two on each side.  If you plan on bolting completely through the frame, be sure to use spacer tubes to prevent the frame from collapsing.  I have successfully attached towbar brackets using the inside set of frame bolt holes.

I have actually "flat-towed" my Samurai.  I always get underneath and remove the rear driveshaft using 14mm wrenches before setting out on a trip.  When I get to my destination, I reattach it making sure that it is properly assembled if I accidentally separated the driveshaft.  See http://www.acksfaq.com/driveshaftvideo.htm for more information on this.  It's a giant pain in the A$$ to operate this way, but if you don't flat-tow regularly, you don't need to spend the money on the Trail Tough rear driveline disconnect - an excellent product to use if you plan to DO a lot of flat-towing behind motorhome!  

Nothing guarantees the elimination of potential driveline damage like disconnecting the rear driveline!

I hope that this helps!

what about locking the steering?

what about locking the steering?

DON'T LOCK THE STEERING COLUMN!

i ruined a parir of low-mileage BFG AT/KOs ($135 each) because I forgot to unlock the steering column.

The caster action built into the steering will cause the front wheels to automatically turn in the direction of the towing vehicle's turn without excessive sideways dragging of the tires.

I hope that this helps!

what about locking the steering?

You did read the instructions at: http://www.petroworks.com/pdf/How%20to%20Flat%20Tow%20a%20Samurai.pdf
didn't you? Especially line 4.  You gotta unlock the steering!  I use a separate bright yellow key for towing, so I'll be more likely to see it and remove it once I get there.  I need all the visual aids I can get.  I also tow with the doors unlocked, so that if I have to get inside in a hurry, I can do it quickly. It's not as secure as locking, but no one is going to jump in the Zuk at 60 mph.