the dealer is not going to want to touch it. with a labor rate of around $100 an hour, depending on where you live, you will probably have a empty bank account before you have a running vehicle.
Here is the straight up. Allot of these guys that convert your harness have copied someone else or had an experienced mechanic/ engineer tell them what to do.
As I have been down this road before, let me tell you that there could be allot of time involved in figuring it out.
But lets try!
do you have a scan tool. not just a code reader but a tool that can show you live data (ie: tps, cts, maf, fuel trim, etc)?This tool could get us there allot quicker.
based on what has been said I'm thinking?
is the o2 sensor heater circuit code gone now?
Put a volt meter on the tps. it has three wires that i want to test. with the connector disconnected check at the connector with the key on engine off test the 3 wires for 1) 5 volts, 2) 0 volts and 3) 0 volts.
plug the connector back in and back probe. again, key on engine off. you should have 1) 5 volts, 2) approximately .5 volts, in the idle position, and 3) less that .1 volts
if that is all good, stay on wire #2, the approximately .5 volts at idle. have an assistant slowly open the throttle. The voltage should climb to approximately 4.0 volts at full throttle with a nice smooth sweep.
if that all tests as described, my next thought is,
unplug an injector and turn the ignition on, engine off. measure the voltage available on the battery side, i think this is the blue/ black wire.
once you have found the battery side reconnect the injector and back probe the connector. with you volt meter hot lead on the back probe at the injector, and the ground lead at the positive battery post. (yes i said negative volt meter lead to positive post.)
start the engine and accelerate to the point of hesitation or bog down. What is the volt meter reading? This is a voltage drop test. Assuming that you red using a set up similar to stock with a main relay, I would expect the volt meter to read less that .8 volts. If your reading is higher the PCM is "laying down" to protect itself.
you can check the vol;tage drop on you grounds the same way. positive lead to the ground side of the load, and negative lead to the negative battery post.
If you are not clear on these test feel free to ask. I don't know what your level of understanding electronics is. I will try to answer any questions that you may have.
NOTE, YOU CANNOT TEST THRU A ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT, ONLY THE WIRING TO AND FROM IT.
If you post the results I will try to help you until you get it going.
Or, if you live in southern California I can give you a quote for what I think it will take to diagnosis the problem at your home. I do accept side work from time to time.
Oh, I seriously doubt that swapping any parts is going to resolve this.
