Seriously, the valve body isn't that bad to tear down, watch out for the small check
balls and you should be good to get it fixed

Wild

I will have to wait till it warms up a little bit, it's 28 degrees right now, and the back wall of my shop is not finnished yet, hard to heat. (another one of a million projects I have got to get finnished!)

After changing the oil and filter, I got first, third and fourth back, but still no reverse. Dropped and cleaned the valve body, still no difference. Found another tranny for $65 in the junkyard, got it out of a two wheel drive kick, so it has the false transfer case (spacer) took about three hours to get it out, but from the wax crayon markings on the pump end, it may have been rebuilt recently. Hope to have it in by the end of the week.

There are plungers or pistons that you have to make sure are free
to move properly also in the valve body.

Wild

Got the new transmission in, and it worked fine for the first couple of miles, then started acting up again. This time though, the OD light (MIL) started flashing. Got it back to the shop, it stored no codes other than MAP sensor, if I remember right. I didn't think this transmission was computer controlled, but apparently it is.

Got the new transmission in, and it worked fine for the first couple of miles, then started acting up again. This time though, the OD light (MIL) started flashing. Got it back to the shop, it stored no codes other than MAP sensor, if I remember right. I didn't think this transmission was computer controlled, but apparently it is.

A 4 speed is computer controlled.  A 3 speed isn't.

Finally found some decent info on the web, found a troubleshooting guide that actually tells how this transmission is set up. The Park/neutral switch does much more than inhibit cranking while in gear, since I found out this is computer controlled (no thanks to others web sites) the shifter position is an input that may be causing my problem. It has been getting worse at having to push or pull on the shifter to engage the safety switch to start. I'm going to replace this switch, and hopefully will cure the problem.

The switch is probably only part of the problem, but now I have a lot more to go on, heres the link for those who need it. http://www.suzuki4x4.net/manual/vitara/autotransdiagnosis_1.pdf

Excellent PDF!

I think I will actually test the switch first, there pricey. $200 Playing with the adjustment might be cheaper!

Found a switch for less than $100, havn't put it in yet though, the transmission I just had put in is doing something different from what I was told, I got it back and test drove it, It goes through first and second, but will not shift into third. Once you get up around 40-50 mph it drops out of gear when it should go to third. It will not go back into gear until you stop completely. Got to be something to do with the computer. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to change the switch and test the solenoids.

Worked on the tranny today, found out the auto supply sold me the wrong park/neutral switch, it is for 99 and newer, and will not work on the 95  (not enough contacts and wires on it) The test pdf I posted does not match the wire color code, and pin configuration either. The locations of the computers are not correct either. The cruise control module is on the firewall, not next to the TCM. The power door lock module is next to the TCM. Unplugged the TCM, transmission still does same thing, but I did find out turning the "Overdrive" switch off, prevented it from dropping into neutral after reaching 45 MPH, but still does not shift to third. Something is missing from the wiring diagram, because this switch is an input to the TCM, and should have no affect on the transmission with the TCM disconnected. The wires to the solenoids are difficult to get to, and have no quick connect to take apart to test, as well as the Park/Neutral switch (very bad design) Since the colors and the pins on the diagram do not match at the TCM, I cannot troubleshoot them at that end. Even the supply voltage is comming in at pins different than what the diagram shows. Looks like American engineers do not have the market cornered on screwed up wiring diagrams, the Japanese engineers are tring to beat them on it.