Silicone gel eh? The question I would have to ask is - does it disengage now?
What is supposed to happen is that when cold the fan clutch should disengage and allow the fan to pretty much "free wheel" - although it's actually the other way around - the hub is required to turn without driving the fan, then as the engine warms up, the air flowing through the radiator gets warmer, and warms the fan clutch.
As long as there is sufficent air flow through the radiator - usually due to the vehicle's forward motion - to keep the engine within the operating temperature range, the clutch would remain disengaged, but if the engine temps, for any reason, get above normal, the air flowing through the radiator and over the fan clutch will also get warmer and warm the fan clutch which in turn should cause it to gradually engage and move more air through the radiator, bringing the temperature down.
OK - that's the theory of operation - how does it work in practice?
The ones I've seen have a bimetallic device that controls the flow of silicone oil, which is a liquid, so replacing that liquid with a gel might not be the best approach.
With the engine off, and the fan clutch stationary, the oil pools at the low spot and so if you turn the fan by hand, there is some resistance - when the engine starts, the centrifugal force redistributes the oil within the first minute or two of engine operation - typically you can hear this - the fan is quite loud when the engine is first started but within a matter of minutes it dies away to a whisper - some people mistake this for the engine noise as the engine will typically idle at 1800 rpm when first started and then drop back to 800 as it warms up.
Listen to the fan with the repaired clutch - can you hear it at startup - my guess is yes, does it die away shortly after? If you step on the gas and bring the rpms up to 1800~2000 rpm after the engine warms up (but before it get's hot) can you hear the fan? You shouldn't.