curious,..what size tube did you use for your lower link exstension?...im about to move/extend mine,...but was wondering what size tube to buy for the links themselfs...

curious,..what size tube did you use for your lower link exstension?...im about to move/extend mine,...but was wondering what size tube to buy for the links themselfs...

I believe I used 1.625" x 0.85" wall 4130(Chromoly) DOM.  I used it because I had some handy.  It would probably be better to get some tube (DOM or not) with at least 0.120" wall thickness and an ID close to the OD of the existing links. 

not sure if i missed something, but you widened the front .5 inches on each side,so what did u do to the back to make it wider so things don't look goofy???

not sure if i missed something, but you widened the front .5 inches on each side,so what did u do to the back to make it wider so things don't look goofy???

The stock track width of the tracker is actually narrower in the front than the rear.  Even if it wasn't .5" would be pretty much impossible to notice when looking at the vehicle.  With a tire turned even slightly it would stick out more than that...

So to answer your question, I did nothing to make the back wider.  Even if the front tires stuck out 2 or 3 inches wider than the rear I wouldn't change the rear.  It would look sweet, aggressive. Of course IMO .

Quote from: zuk_freak on April 30, 2010, 08:59:31 PM

not sure if i missed something, but you widened the front .5 inches on each side,so what did u do to the back to make it wider so things don't look goofy???

The stock track width of the tracker is actually narrower in the front than the rear.  Even if it wasn't .5" would be pretty much impossible to notice when looking at the vehicle.  With a tire turned even slightly it would stick out more than that...

So to answer your question, I did nothing to make the back wider.  Even if the front tires stuck out 2 or 3 inches wider than the rear I wouldn't change the rear.  It would look sweet, aggressive. Of course IMO .

thanks for the help.i am very interested in doing this to my kick. got the control arms off the parts track/kick but the mounting bolts are rusted solid in the control arm bushings, guess i'll have to get new ones.i've been following this build very closely.thanks for all the help
   
   zuk freak

Well,

I've put over 1000 kms on it now and I LOVE IT! I still have some finishing touches but it has become my DD and that makes it all the trickier to finish...well it's never really finished.  I was checking out what else I could use off of the XL-7 so the next upgrade will be the XL-7 disc brakes (I think they'll fit), and the front coils. 

Pics and stuff to come...

A quick pic of the progress of my winch bumper:

is there anymore pics of your winch bumper showing where you mounted it,what u used,etc???

 

Quote from: muskegtracker on October 15, 2009, 01:26:54 AM

A quick pic of the progress of my winch bumper:

is there anymore pics of your winch bumper showing where you mounted it,what u used,etc???

The winch is mounted to a winch plate from Low Range and the rest is .125" plate or similar...all welded to the frame using a proprietary box and gusset technique.   I don't have any other pics that really show any different than below (just painted and winch and fairlead mounted.)

Here's what it looks like with the XL-7 coils.  They have the same number of windings, same diameter of wire, but a larger pitch.

No, this is not my "exotic" lift that I alluded to previously.  Still working that one out.



Before:


After:


and a little mud:




I will be installing taller rear coils in the near future...

Thats an incredible transformation!!
What kind of tires are those?

Thats an incredible transformation!!
What kind of tires are those?

Thanks! The tires are - Kumho Road Venture M/T KL71

you gunna be going with bigger tires??? or u stickin with the 235s?

you gunna be going with bigger tires??? or u stickin with the 235s?

I would love to go with a bigger tire...right now I can't really justify it because the tires I have still have lots of tread.  But tires are in the plan.  31's at least, possibly bigger.

I was recently asked what mods were required for the V6 swap.  So I thought I would copy it here, just for interest sake.  Below is a list of SOME of the work I did.  

-engine mounts
-body lift (so engine and radiator fit under the hood.  Mine required 3 inches to fit the rad
 where I wanted it.)
-shortened rear driveshaft and put XL-7 slip yoke on (professionally done)
-mounts for different rad
-mounts for power steering res.
-mounts for intake and other misc
-wiring...lots of it(well over 100 hours)  (It has 5 computers)
-steering shaft (I had to change where the upper u-joint was located in order to clear the
 exhaust manifold.
-move brake manifold (the one on the side of the frame)
-brake pedal switch and mounting plate


I did the engine and tranny/tc swap.  The whole thing all in one go.  Saved a lot of money and time not having to figure out how to adapt a different tranny/tc. I also used the XL-7 instrument cluster, had to cut out the dash to fit it in(still haven't made a shroud for it yet).  

XL-7 was 4:25 gearing.  Tracker diffs are 5:13.  It's quite little low geared,  really nice for trail riding, etc, but not quite so nice on fuel mileage on the highway.  It's about 10% lower than stock.  I do plan on going with bigger tires in the future; that will solve my 10% lower issue.  I didn't use front or rear diff's.  I didn't swap steel front housing because it was different gearing, had a weird freewheel mechanism, really just different and didn't want to mess with it at the time.  I didn't use the rear because there is currently no aftermarket support.  No Lockers, spools, axles, etc, and obviously if I wasn't using the front diff, the gearing in the rear was again 4:25 not 5:13.  Mostly I was just not interested in going that route so I didn't look into it much.

Stuff that was a direct bolt in, or compatible:

-gas pedal (for cruise control)
-steering linkages, u-joint, and vibration isolator
-front driveshaft
-tranny crossmember mount
-power steering lines
-trans shifter (Tracker was a manual transmission, now 5 speed auto)
-throttle cable
-exhaust runs down the driver side
-heater hoses are on the passenger side in pretty much the right location.  (with a 3 inch body lift)

Computers I used:

-ECM/PCM
-TCM (transmission control module)
-BCM (Body control module - so gauge cluster would work properly)
-4XController (I have push button 4WD)
-Combination meter (gauge cluster - yes it has a computer)

I did think that about covers it.  So many things, I'm sure I forgot something.

(Added)
A list of XL-7 parts that I used:

-Engine
-Transmission/Transfer case
-Transmission mount
-Power steering pump
-Radiator
-Combination Meter(instrument cluster)
-TCM (transmission control module)
-BCM (Body control module)
-ECM (Engine control module)
-Front Driveshaft
-Rear Driveshaft slip yoke and u-joint
-Power steering resi.
-steering shaft coupler, u-joint, and vibration damper
-gas pedal
-Transmission shifter and cable
-Wiring harness (lots of wires, but not all of the harness.  I cut every wire to fit.)
-Entire engine/tranny side of wiring harness
-Exhaust pipe (shortened and customized to fit)
-Small muffler (those things have 2)
-4WD push button
-"Power" push button
-Cruise control module
-Cruise control controls
-Brake pedal (just the pedal)
-Brake pedal switch
-Transmission cooler lines.(used different external cooler)
-Radiator hoses

I think that's about it...

P.S.

I am selling some of the parts I didn't use.  I've already sold enough to almost pay for the purchase of the entire parts vehicle! If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...