You got a point about making 2 into one, sure does save money in the long run! The Supremes that I'm talking about were made from 70-72 & were notchbacks (for lack of better term). UGGHHH. At least your year Supreme can be fixed.

OK, I found a 16v 1.6 with harness & computer. Supposed to have 60,000 miles on it but no way to verify since it's out of the vehicle. What's a decent price to pay for this & is there anything more to installing this vs an 8v motor?

16V is supposed to be a little more involved  I see them for sale WELL under $1,000. Just saw one for $300 in the for sale section. I see them go, around here, for $300-$700 (this includes ECU, harness & a turn key engine with all accessories). People ask more, but they don't seem to get it sold 'till they drop the price. New economy and all  You're also going to need the speedo (or another speedo) for the VSS, and Buick 318 motor mounts (can't find the part # for the life of me, but should be about $20 for the pair). I honestly don't know what the deal is with the "engine adapter plate" or if it can be bypassed... hopefully someone can chime in. From there, you'll need to spend some time with the wiring harnesses, or send them off to aftermarket4x4 / trail tough / your favorite vendor to have it done for you ($400ish after shipping I think).

If you can have them start it up, and warm it up - you can do a compression test on it. Not sure how useful a "cold" compression test would be? I'm not an expert. If it looks super dirty / gritty, or the belts (especially timing belt) looks cracked & worn - it might have more miles than they claim.

Sounds complicated, but I gotta ask, what is a Buick 318? Did you mean a 3.8 V6 or a Dodge 318 or what? Also, you're saying that even with a complete harness & ECM I still have to rewire everything? Why do I need another speedometer cable & can I run without one? This is mainly a trail toy, so I don't think I'll be getting a speeding ticket down in the holler, lol.

I might pass if it's as much trouble as you say.

He was asking $750, but price is negotiable & since it's already out of the vehicle I gotta take off the oil pan & valve covers to check everything. I like doing this anyway just to find metal shavings, loose bolts, etc.

The adapter plate is required because the bell housing bolt patterns on the 1.3 & 1.6 engines are different - I believe you can get by without it if you're willing to weld and re-drill in a couple of locations.

Quote from: sammypro.com on May 14, 2009, 08:29:33 AM

Of course being a builder I will take the "Pepsi challenge" w/ any 1.6 swap vs. my 1.3 built Sammy.

Any 1.6L?
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=22360.0
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bentparts/
 

I'm not on the "build 1.3L" bandwagon. The HP & Torque numbers seem to be about the same as a stock 1.6L, and I'm an "area under the curve" guy. Peak numbers aren't too useful - how quickly does the engine build that torque? Do you have to run premium fuel to get the same numbers as a stock 1.6L? How useful is it for the average person to build a motor to do the same #s as an already available turn-key engine?

For $1,200 I can install a 2.0L and have money left over. More resourceful people have done the 2.5L swap for not much more coin. Just saw a complete 1.6L w/ harness in the for sale section for $300. As said - it's a cost vs benefit thing.

That said - guys like samipro who've got hopped up 1.3L engines sure seem to love 'em.

Nice rig, and since were talkin apples top apples...hope this pic works

Nice 1.3! My dad works at a turbo shop, so fabricating something like that shouldn't be too hard if I could see how you did the routing. After reading Jeremiah's post, this looks like a cheaper easier alternative to the 16v swap... at least for me.

SammyPro, do you think a T25 with about 9psi would be OK or could I step up to a bigger turbo/more boost? Hollow parts on these motors led me to think I would be power limited.

the 16v swap is sick, great gains. My main hangup on buying swap motors w/ ,??? miles is just that, the reliabilty. Ive broken down way out from nowhere and its LAIM, however new motors break too! The turbo setup im familiar with is for a airplane, not sure how it would cross reference for wheelin application. Ill get back to ya!!! ...........BTW, that 1.6 that was launching off the ramp was SICK

The more one moves away from stock, the more complicated it is. As far as engine swaps go, the 1.6L swap is relatively uncomplicated. Putting a 1.6L bottom onto your existing head will be 1/2 of the swap (making a 1.6L 8V), but will be very limited by the stock carborator (which is already restricting the capabilities of your 1.3L). It's the fuel injection that really wakes up the 1.6L engines. But, go with whatever works for you & your skill set. This may answer some of your questions:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=25270.0

Nice rig, and since were talkin apples top apples...hope this pic works

*drool*

Hey guys, I'm still here. I've just been using the search button a lot to answer my questions. NOTE TO OTHER NEWBS! IT WORKS! lol

 I think I might try to rebuild this 1.6 8V that I have if anyone has parts for sale. If not I'll slap some flat tops, a cam & header on the 1.3L. I'm going to a smaller (gasp) tire size mainly so I don't break any axles on 33s & also so I can get some power back when I'm on the trails. I'm kind of budget limited for the moment & there's more work needed than originally thought. Anyone know where to score a removable hardtop for cheap? These soft tops are a pain!

Thanks again guys, this site has been a real help so far. BTW, Zaggy's Do it yerself engine build thread was very interesting to read.