Once this build is done, I'll put a 'stripped down' version in the DIY section. For now, I need to learn / discuss a lot, so I figure this was a better place for it...

I can't come up with a clever name for my build, but I'm pulling this:
* OBDI 1.6L 16V
* 4-speed Auto
* Fully rebuilt Toy Axles (Yukon 4.88 gears, Rear Aussie locker)
* 35" M/T tires (50%ish tread, I forget the brand)
* Power steering

From this ('94 Sidekick):





To put in this ('83 SJ410 body on '86 Samurai frame):





Goals:
Streetable, lightweight all-round wheeler. Must be equally adept at rock crawling (Rubicon, Moab, Fordice), snow wheeling & catching a little air in the dessert & coastal dunes. Must be able to tow this: http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,92822.0.html, up hill, loaded with camping gear, tools & trail spares without struggling too much.

Suspension Plans:
Low CG is high priority with 35" shoes, so as much fender trimming as possible. Then I'd like to do coil & link (because the ride, approach & departure angles RULE) with wheel base stretch, but not sure if I can afford it ($1000 for link setup?), or do it (I've never done one). Might have to go RUF & CJ rear or something similarly wallet & engineering friendly. Part of me wants to go crazy, and swap my solid front for a Yota IFS... Mmmmmm.... IFS in dunes / fast trails is oh-so-nice.

Gearing Plans:
I think I'm going to do RockRat's adapter (he still making them?), as that should gear me just-about perfectly for 35" tires, and give me a doubler. Otherwise - maybe skip the 1.6L and go with a Buick Series II 3.8L, and adapt it to Toyota drivetrain  For sure spooling or Aussie locking the front too (can't afford e-locker or ARB).

Go-Fast Bits:
* CAI
* Doug Thorley header, 2" (or 2 1/4"?) exhaust, QUIET high-flow muffler (yes, they exist), high-flow cat
* Maybe a torquer (lower RPM) cam - still investigating
* And, if I'm ambitious - a IHI RHB5 Turbo (because it's just sitting in my closet). Not sure if I want to run 92 octane all the time though.

Misc:
* OTT steering & P/S cooler
* Oversized trans cooler
* Oil-cooler (re-use the trans cooler that's built into radiator) & bypass filter (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=34&page=1)
* Paint Job
* New seats (those bucket seats SUCK) - probably from the 94 kick
* Typical armor (Nerf bars, axle truss, custom bumpers, more roll protection & swing away)
* Electric fan (because I think they work better in high-heat slow-craw situations, and because it too is sitting in my closet)
* Rock lights & under-hood lights
* Rear-mounted battery
* Snorkel
* Roof-rack 
* A/C 
* Alarm (and maybe even Lo-Jack)
* Lots-o-gauges
* Already got removable doors, rhino lining & tach


Will carry spare axles (and or CV if I go that route), but won't do bobby longs unless I start breaking regularly. Did I miss anything?

should look awesome! kepp it up

GPS system.

Oh, and Neon! 

I can't afford Bobby Longs (Longfields), so I'll be wheeling and hoping I don't break axles. I'll be carrying trail spares though - anyone know if these are worth carrying? http://www.trail-gear.com/birfield.html

Only problem with those is then you break your axle. 

I'm not a huge fan of trail gear, most of it is just stuff that marlin crawler originated then trial gear just has it made it china for half the cost.

I know some guys running these, there probably the same thing....but with a 2 yr warranty.
It's got to be better than a stock birf....they crap out with 33" tire.

But I would defiantly save up and go with longs, there worth it in the end.

http://marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/chromoly-um06-marfield


Amilla

$180 x 2 = $360 (or, 1/2 way to longfields). I'd rather just keep saving and get the "real deal". I just want stockers or close-to-stock cheap spares for now. When I get the $$$ (and if I'm breaking axles), I'll get the Longfields. I'm hoping my light right foot, and the auto will help the axles survive longer, but... who knows  Those 35" tires are going to be hard on 'em.

I need to replace my valve guide seals I think (get white puffs-o-smoke, especially on startup). OD says 220k +, but previous owner claimed it had been swapped. While I've got the engine out, I want to check it out.
Here's my dumb questions:
* I've seen compression testers |removethispart|@ harbor freight for $25, and up to $120. Which kit do I get, and how do I use them properly?
* Do I need to bother with a leak-down tester?
* I've heard of dropping the oil pan and using 'plastigauge' to check the internals. What's this process?
* Is there a way to check the oil pump? I don't want to spend the $$$ if mine is good, but I don't want my engine dieing of oil starvation either...

$180 x 2 = $360 (or, 1/2 way to longfields). I'd rather just keep saving and get the "real deal". I just want stockers or close-to-stock cheap spares for now. When I get the $$$ (and if I'm breaking axles), I'll get the Longfields. I'm hoping my light right foot, and the auto will help the axles survive longer, but... who knows  Those 35" tires are going to be hard on 'em.

Just save it up and get them. I 'decided' to stay with the stockers during my build but right at the end when money was the tighest, I hung out with a bunch of Toyota guys and they ALL said that the money is wekk worth it... damn near impossible to break. So I spent the extra and ordered some longfields.

Zig

Longs are $700ish shipped. Trail spares are under $100 for the pair. The $$$ just isn't there to get 'em before zukipoluza & other events this season.