You might be able to buy one from a dealer, if they still have them.  Most of the after market companies carry the FSM for various models.  They aren't the cheapest thing, but they do come in handy.  Hawk Suzuki should have one if you give them a call, that is where I picked up the one for my SJ.

E-Bay can also have them from time to time.

I've been  using sae30 in mine year round. It's a  little slow cranking on a cold winter day but It rarely drops below 10 here. Still starts but if it got much colder or down to 10 more often, I would switch to a multi viscosity. Somehow, I got it in my head that the multi-viscosity oil has some crappy rubber compound in it that sludges up the engine but what do I know.

-Adam 

The multiviscosity oil has more Viscosity Improvers (VI's) which break down and lead you to needing oil changes due to physical break down. Detergents present in all motor oil also break down as well. You are smart in running a single grade motor oil if possible because it will last longer than a comparable multi viscosity, however it may not offer the protection the multi does before the oil is fully warm. Tradeoff. 

what do your sami's like to be timed at?

lol im not sure about timing when i adjusted the valve lash i read the instructions and skipped a few steps i took the spark plugs out and turned the motor with a socket on a 6inch breaker bar ( got to love that little engine) and just would spin the motor till i saw the cam lobe for the valve im adjusting facing straight down then adjusted valve lash.

seems the exhaust valves were worst than the intakes and i heard a huge difference in engine noise ( use to sound like a sewing machine) and throttle response seemed better. also i drove it to work the next day and back (10miles) let it cool for a couple of hours and rechecked the lash and it was still perfect. now my lash was off alot but i also have 260xxx miles never been rebuilt and she is a good girl starts up every time.

now with downloading do you have adobe acrobat program? because thats what type of file it is. also make sure you dont have a pop up blocker of some sort they can cause that problem sometimes.
also if u would want to message me your email i can try to send it to you that way or worst comes to worst ill make a disc and mail it to you for free. like the other guys said the fsm can get expensive im a ford tech at a dealer and we just got new books for the ford flex and one book was 135 bucks and its 2 volumes

by the way heres the ign timing

Well I got er adjusted last night and it didnt seem to do much. Maybe a little bit snappier but still sounds like a loud clanky diesel when it idles cold. any ideas? To me it sounds like something with too little or too thick of an oil before it warms up. Like the top end isnt getting lubed when cold.

One more question and hopefully I adjusted them right. I didnt use the timing window because the rubber was disintegrating, but I used the crank pulley. Why does it have the timing window if it also has a marker on the crank pulley like everything else. I have never seen a 'timing window' before. WTF???

oil pump maybe? could be on its way out if its not properly circulating the oil like it should...especially at intial start up...having little or no oil at startup will be loud and clanky like your describing, not to mention will definately cause problems 

Im going to do an oil change with some good multi viscosity oil with a low winter rating and see if it helps. PS doe these rigs have a low oil pressure light or shutoff? Also I have an extra oil pressure guage so I could toss in a mechanical to get an idea, but where would I put it. Im not familliar with these little japenese things 

yea hes right you can try Lucas oil addictive. it is gods gift i think. it keeps oil up in the top end some how. i use it for my vw gti and my turbo laser. and with the timing hole vws have them too im not sure what its for but does anyone know why car engineers do what they do    there's is a oil pressure light the sending unit is just a dummy switch im pretty sure. i use to have one but i took my cluster out ( custom one is being made right after i type this )
here is some more diagrams for you by the way  hope it helps

thanks a lot this is very helpful. as for my question on the timing hole. when you time this motor you actually shine you light into the hole right? i ask because i noticed i have a conventional timing pointer and mark on my crank pulley too. so which is the correct place to shine a light? or is both ok?

you use the timing hole if u read step 5 it says it right there. you could try it doing it in the front. do the front and then try the timing hole and see if there's a difference shown before you mess with dist. maybe throw some white out on there so its easier to see

I think you should use 5 w 30 like all my service books say to use  one of my buddies tried to put lucas in his oil & it made the oil so thick it wouldnt drain or pump  properly thru the oil pasages(the yare tiny) in the head/block & his cam siezed up

wow i never heard of that maybe it was a fluke? did he put all lucas in ive heard people doing that instead of replacing a quart like it says on the bottle and you should change your oil first before adding it. i know a guy i raced with he would put it in his wifes car thinking it would solve the sludge problem she had. Ive been using it for 5 years on my vw and she is a stroked high revving all motor alcohol running little monster.

3.5 quarts 10w30 & 1qt lucas ,,,, I had good luck using their trans stuff in my trans but iguess if you have a weak oil system  a addative is still only a temporary fix Ive used it in my harley  but that uses thick 20 w50  I just wouldnt put any thing too thick in especially when it s cold