Hello all...

Just looking for a little input before my front end rebuild. (Winter project.) In review, from what I researched;

1.)  The Maxima front shafts are as strong as the Toyota's, but offer more articulation. They also are a little harder to adapt to the Suzuki flanges. Also more expensive and harder to find. (How much harder to adapt?)

2.)  The Toyota front shafts are as strong as the Maxima's, but offer less articulation. They are easier to adapt (There is a kit out there? Who?) and cheaper / more plentiful.

3.) The Ford Explorer shafts are just as easy as the Toyota's to adapt. Stronger than the Suzuki's, but not as strong as the Maxima's or Toyota's. Are really plentiful and much cheaper.

Is this the consensus on the IFS suspension upgrades?  How much more articulation do you get out of the Maxima's shafts?

Looking for people that have done the mod's or have used the different shafts for input. Welding and machining is not a problem for me. My intent is to use the best components up front and not have any regrets as to what would have been better. Also, please, no sold axle swap comments. I'm actually happy with my rig's ability and handling as it is. Additionally, I like to keep as much of the same product line (manufacture) in my rides.

Any help appreciated, Thanks.

I can't answer your questions but I am also building a stronger IFS.  I am putting an ARB locker into a Calmini Anvil and a steel Grand Vitara pinion carrier.  I felt you need a weak link in your system somewhere and hope that weak link would be inexpensive. With the Anvil, I figured that would be the CV joints but they would be cheap and easily replaced with the Anvil, since I would only have to carry one spare axle.  My question would be if you make the axles so strong then where would the weak link be?

The ARB by itself is going to save you some stress on your drive train.  Since you run open most of the time you won't have to worry about your front end binding up unnecessarily.

Search STAN's for the adapter kit to run Toy cv's. There's info in here somewhere.

I can't answer your questions but I am also building a stronger IFS.  I am putting an ARB locker into a Calmini Anvil.  I felt you need a weak link in your system somewhere and hope that weak link would be inexpensive. With the Anvil, I figured that would be the CV joints but they would be cheap and easily replaced with the Anvil, since I would only have to carry one spare axle.  My question would be if you make the axles so strong then where would the weak link be?

I agree some wear along the line it's nice to have a weak link by installing a stronger cv shaft, I assume you'll start breaking ring and pinions, which are more expensive that a cv and a little more work to change.

I am upgrading, much like others, to a steel housing with better internals. I am concern with getting the most unrestricted travel or articulation out of the axles without causing the cv's to bind. When you max out the cv's and they lock, that load is transferred up the driveline. Yes, having a weak link by using the stock cv's as a breakaway feature is one method for controlling what breaks in the front driveline. But I'd like to avoid getting put into that situation in the first place. Yes, having a suspension that does not max out the extension of the cv's is one cure. But we as wheelers modify everything at one point, lifted suspension, different struts, etc… All to gain better ride quality, larger tires, or the holy grail of suspension travel.

So, if someone with specific knowledge could answer my original questions.

Thank you.

Are you running the Calmini suspension or stock arms?

I am running the Calmini 3x3 Suspension and Body Lift. But I don't know what lift I'm running has to do with my original question. Unless your going to discuss the length of the modified cv's, which I know from the manifacture spec sheets. Again, machining, welding, and fabbing is not a problem for me.
 
Please, if anyone can comment on my first post, please do.

Again thanks.

Stan, a member here, makes a kit that allows the use of Toyota cv's on a Trackick. There are some front end mod's required to use this kit, but since machining, welding and fabbing are in your skill set it should be no problem. You have to do a search, as I can't remember whaer the info is. This IS an answer to your specific question.   

I am running the Calmini 3x3 Suspension and Body Lift. But I don't know what lift I'm running has to do with my original question. Unless your going to discuss the length of the modified cv's, which I know from the manifacture spec sheets. Again, machining, welding, and fabbing is not a problem for me.

Yeah, its the length I'm interested in. I'm pretty sure that Mike Hagen posted that the Toy CVs have pretty much the same operating angle as the Suzuki shafts. I've measured up the Calmini set up and the driveshafts are further extended than stock which limits the travel. So theres potential to have more travel with the Toys. I also know of a guy over here that cut and shut Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun shafts, similar travel but much stronger. He has been running them for a few years now. From a PM:

I got a bit fed up with wrecking the shafts whenever I used the ARB. I went to the local scrappys and went through a lot of the bigger 4X4 shafts. I found that the Shogun fronts are clearly from the same manufacturer as the Suzuki ones only much bigger CVs and shafts. Obviously they were larger at the hubs and diff as well. To overcome this I removed the original suzuki bits and then welded them to the inner and outer Cvs of the Mitsi ones. The Mitsi CVs are a perfect fit at the suzuki hubs being as large as they possibly could be whilst still fitting in the bearing carrier. Not had a problem since.

Thanks for the info bentparts and Rhnoman. Greatly appreciated.

i do have a kit to do the toy shafts, whats nice is its a stock axle no mods to the axle( just some inner axle mods and hagen widening) easy to find axles at parts stores. you still have the same travel.  have not seen alot of gear or inner axle problems.  stan

I have stans kit and it works really nice.  Ran them hard for several years now (32 MTRs 11.5) and have not had one problem with them.  Did bust a real axil shaft last year but thats another subject.

Also, with the toyota shafts I still think the week link will be the shafts.  I've read that the ones running 35 - 37" tires still busts CV's but not so often.  (they have steal front housings).

Thanks for the information on the Toyota axles. Stan I'll be in touch if other things don't work out with what I’m doing. I going the Maxima rout with the front axles. From all the information searched here, they look to give me what I’m after, strength and additional articulation. I understand they are one-offs and need to be machined / fabbed to work. But I guess I can always make a back up and stow it for future use.

Now does anyone have any broken left side Suzuki Track/Kick axles lying around?

Thanks,

Mike