Problem is you Kick is a slip yoke and the cv is a Flange style. You will better off using a Non cv Toy rear shaft cutting it down then getting a conversion joint or making a hack and tap to make it flanges istead of Slip. PRoblem with the cv in the rear is for it to work correctly you need to turn the pinion up and that will inturn, playy hell with your rear springs causing them to not sit straight.

As rockrat says, you wold have to cut and remount a lot of stuff on the axle itself in order to set it up to take advantage of the DC shaft's properties. 
] Well, taking into account I've already done the "Hagen" over rotation of the rear axle, including remounting the coils and shocks, and fabricating a spacer and remounting the upper center link, I think most of the work is done already. About the only thing I think I'll need to do is make a set of adjustable length control arms to fine tune the pinon angle. As it is right now, the pinon is almost pointing directly at the t case output shaft, if slightly above it. That I think, is the primary reason I need to go with some kind of cv type driveshaft, the angles are eating up u joints, and I get a fair amount of vibes from the drive line. The Hagen mod did provide for an increase in wheelbase, enough to run 32" tires without any wheel well cutting, and did recenter the wheel under the well. It also moved the pinon up and away from most trail hazards, so all in all the mods were worth it. Ever since the mods were complete though, I 've never been able to really eliminate the driveline vibes, and the consequent u joint problems.  That is why, after looking at some driveshaft sites, and a bit of web searching, I thought that type of driveshaft might help the situation. How about it Rockrat, ever did this kind of swap and mod before?
I've come across several driveline shops online that advertise they can build or fab any kind of driveshaft, but I have my doubts about anyone that doesn't specificly have knowledge of our Zuks. Besides, most of them are in Calif or Colo.  I'm not that confident in my fab skills that I think I could make a "hack and Tap" work, but if it comes down to that, I'm probably going to have to go that route, then try and find a shop that can balance the whole contraption. Would rather have a pro do it though.  Could the kick slip yoke be cut and modded with a flange to accept a toy cv? Why not? Pros and cons?

Oops, that wasn't supposed to all be a quote.

I may be interested in that modded flange. First I have to decide which driveshaft I'm going to use, or If I'm going to have one made up. The front toy driveshaft won't be long enough for mine with a stock tcase setup. Toy fronts are about 24" I think, my rear driveshaft is more like 33-34". Too bad about the length, I've seen 'em on ebay for 20 to 50 bucks. I know this is going to cost me some coin, but it will be worth it to eliminate the vibes, and prevent further premature wear on the rest of the driveline. Let me know what you'd want for the flange, or if you need anything parts wise. Maybe we can work something out.