I have just received my modified right side stub axle shaft.  As this goes back together it will go in.  Does anyone know where to get the larger axle shaft springs?  Same size as rear and 95 & up front axles.  I ordered some from Suzuki and got the smaller size (pre 95).  My Garage said that is all they have listed.
Talonxracer said that if you used the 4 door brakes the springs will not rub on calipers.  Unless you want to straighten the spring and get a little more lift.  I only went 1", but looks like you could go an easy 1 1/2".

did you move the knuckle/hubs  forward like AE, if yes, pictures are welcome

Your topic give lot of ideas. awesome build !!!

did you move the knuckle/hubs  forward like AE, if yes, pictures are welcome

Your topic give lot of ideas. awesome build !!!

Similar.  I have seen a couple of different builds that have moved the ball joint forward.  The Mr T Build by Muskegtracker is closest to what I did.  Moving the ball joint forward moves the bottom of the hub forward.  The photo's of before and after are about all I have.  When I am fabing something like this, its Thinking, make a move, Thinking, make a move, Thinking, Thinking, weld, GRIND, weld, drill, oh yeah take a photo (to dirty take it later), done take that photo.  Second time less of everything (even the photo's).  Right now with engine out it appears that I will have lots of room.  Should start to refit the motor sometime tomorrow, also have to fit the front diff in ( I made a new front (on input housing) mount similar to stock aluminum one, so I can use stock mount.

Looking great. I like the idea of moving the mount for the ball joint forward.
I believe the larger front axles weren't until 96, try looking at a 96-97 for the larger shafts.

Are you talking about the CV Spline count ? I have a 1995 and it is 22 spline, my 1996 is 26 splines and the intermediate shaft and the passenger side CV shaft are both noticeably larger.

BRD HNTR - I am in the same boat as you with the tires, I'm not going to be happy with the 31's any more but I am worried about excess CV breakage, did you think about 33 X 10.5's ? The BFG KM2's come in this size and its looking rather interesting given the weight savings over a 12.5" wide tire.
   

Are you talking about the CV Spline count ? I have a 1995 and it is 22 spline, my 1996 is 26 splines and the intermediate shaft and the passenger side CV shaft are both noticeably larger.

BRD HNTR - I am in the same boat as you with the tires, I'm not going to be happy with the 31's any more but I am worried about excess CV breakage, did you think about 33 X 10.5's ? The BFG KM2's come in this size and its looking rather interesting given the weight savings over a 12.5" wide tire.
   

How about the 235/85r/16 KM2 ?

Looking great. I like the idea of moving the mount for the ball joint forward.
I believe the larger front axles weren't until 96, try looking at a 96-97 for the larger shafts.

I was talking about the increased spline count (sometimes words fail me).
Ok, my mistake.  I thought that it changed in 95.  I will try again with 98, if it is a different number I will order some of them.

I got a good deal on a set of 33X12.5x15 Pro Comp XTerrains (a little to meaty for road useage), and swapped them on Drone637's (mostly trail) SJ410 for his 33X12.5X15 Pro Comp Xteremes.  So I am going to run with those, unless Kris is not happy with the performance of the XTerrains.
I will see how the CV's hold up. That is one reason I had the right side axle modification, it will be easier to change out on the trail now and only have to carry one style of CV.

One thing to be aware of when going from 22 -> 26 spline is the length of the drivers side stub shaft.

When I did mine, the 26 spline shaft was about 1/4" longer than the 22 spline one (I don't recall tho where the 26 spline shaft came from, and possibly could have been from a "sport"?)

I am already running 26 spline, I needed the wire spring for the axles.  I found them in Chevy parts, and they are expensive for their size.  Chevy part #91174735.  The 22 spline ones were almost half the price.
Well I lowered the motor mounts 1" and hood will now fit.  Now I have to modify crossmember/A arm mount or the oil pan.  Also lots of camber (top of wheel leaning out).  I am going to slot these struts and see how much to get it in shape with level (I need new struts, so can hack on these).
Time to start spending money (again).

With the larger tires I had to reset my rear bump stops.  I have been running bump stop off my 2006 Silverado mounted on the axle and bumping the frame.

I used a 2"X1/4"X7" angle iron to mount across the bottom of the upper spring mount.

Now the Tracker setting on bump stop, with no spring, gives me just over 1 1/2" of clearance in wheel opening.

How it looks with spring installed.  I have 3 1/2" to bump stop.


With the motor lowered there was no room for the last beefy mount I had made for the back of the front diff.  So I created a new one similar to the the factory one.  I had planned on using factory one, but there weren't any available at local yards.  This one should not bend.


Now things should start going back together.

Motor back in for tests, have clearance for pan, diff. mount, and hood fits.  Lots of toe out on wheels, and more camber than before.  So I moved ball joints out 3/4" both sides.  Now I can fit drivers side CV's on both sides, toe on wheels is almost straight, camber looks close also.
Rear shock were shot, so I made new shock mounts and turned them 90 degrees so the bolt is running with the wheels.  This should prevent side stress from flexing the rear end.  As I increased the length of my lower links to 30 + inches there won't be as sharp of arch for side stress that way.



With rear shocks replaced there is actually resistance when I bounce in back of Tracker.
Now I have to replace the Struts, as they are almost as bad as the shocks were.  When compressed they do not raise on their own.  Probably going with KYB, and their lifetime warranty.  I'll see how good they are.

Removed the front spring, and stuffed it with tires on.  I am clear on straight ahead, but make contact with back of front wheel well when turning out on either side.  I am working on raising bottom of headlight housing to allow running on bump stop without tire contact.  I should not be able to hit bump stop, but don't want to bounce and have tires hit.

This is what headlight frame looked like

And this is the modified headlight frame.

Stuffed & sitting on bump stop

It comes this close to frame body mount

It looks like 33's is the largest I could go w/o more modifications.

Looks good!

Right On BRD HNTR!  Excellent choice of front end mod.    I have been gone for a while and this morning I caught myself up on your build.  I did not add any sort of camber correction when I did the mod and did notice an improvement in driving.  My brother (TheZuke) purchased and installed the Alter Ego lift.  He contacted Zukination and asked why they felt they needed to add the knuckle relocation bracket.  They didn't have a straight answer, but mumbled something about vibration issues.  I never had any vibration issues though...(I drove it up to 60 mph or so in 4x4 with no problem.)  Anyway, the build is coming along well.  I look forward to seeing how you stuff that engine in lower.

P.S. I'm seriously considering Easter in Moab this year.  I've put almost 20,000 kms on since the engine install and I haven't hit slick rock yet...Man!