Im currently trying to buy an '87 Sammy thats got a shackle lift on it. Problem is, thats just not enough lift but money isnt exactly flowin through here so I cant do what I want right away. I was just curious how well the shackles would work with 3" springs. I've been told this could be dangerous on the highway? I'd be getting a 2" body regardless. Once I can afford it I will do away with the shackles and do a 8" TJ conversion but that would be some time away. I guess basically Im just looking for some advice for cheaply lifting this zuk. I know they are highly capable of crazy things just the way they are but I dont like the way they look sitting so low to the ground.
Thanks ahead of time.

Can you fab? A simple way to get a bit more lift for little money is to fab some brackets to drop the fixed ends of the springs, this will also correct your steering angles. Don't forget to lower your bump stops to suit and check that your brake lines are long enough and your shocks are still positioned OK. If you are going to go for YJ springs then I would suggest that you just save up for those and don't bother spending money on other springs in between.

I would put stock sized shackles back on it and a SPOA before 3" spring and a body lift.  You can do it yourself for free or spend a little and get a kit.  I'm a big fan of the Sky Manufacturing ky's Stage 2 Samurai Spring Over Conversion kit myself as it comes with half of the Over the Top Steering which fixes your bump steer and new brake lines, along with the pads.

How big of a set of shackle lift do you have on it?

Its not mine yet. Im trying to get my hands on it. The guy says a 3" shackle? I didnt think they came bigger then 2" but Im sure I could easily be wrong. SPOA is something I have considered, but know very little about. I understand the whole concept, but not exactly how to do it. I was thinking SPOA with the 3" springs, forget about the shackles n then put the body lift on it. How would I go about doing that myself while spending little to to no money on parts other than the new springs and possibly brake lines? If I did a SPOA w/ 3" springs, how much lift would I actually be looking at before the body lift?  I'd rather not fab anything but I can if I have to.

Would I be better off to go with the 6" SPOA kit from Rocky Road? If I can get a complete kit that will work well, I dont mind spending a few bucks. Would I be able to clear 35x12.50x15's with 8" total lift? My max tire capabilities will influence which tires I buy. I dont mind adding some cut-out flares if absolutely neccessary. My only question on those is, do you have to use wrangler flares or do they make some specifically for a sammy?

If you want to go to 35" tires I would recommend going with a YJ Spring Conversion instead of just a SPOA and lift springs.  Your also going to want to pick up a set of Chromoly front axles, I think Trial Tough still has them on sale.  When you install them you'll have to change your side gears out on the front diff.  You will want the 6.5 or 8:1 transfer case to turn the wheels as well, unless you are going to do an engine swap.  You might be better off switching to either Toyota or custom 9"/Dana 44 axles.  Maybe a Coil Over from Trail Tough.  I don't run into to many obstacles that need taller tires then the 33's on.  I am stopped by the lack of wheelbase more often then clearance. 

I have just a straight SPOA with Rear springs Up Front (RUF).  With the 33" Pro Comp Xtreme Mud Terrains I have 19" of clearance to bottom of the frame.  1" lower then another club Sammy with 33 Swamper's with YJ Spring Over setup.  To fit the tires i have modified my front fenders for clearance.  My rear fenders have also been cut out a few inches, but that was originally to get rid of rust.

If you do a search on SPOA you can find a few write ups on how they are done.  There is nothing wrong with trying a 31" lift out on new tires first to see if you need to go taller.  Unless you have a specific rig in mind that you want to build.

As for the flares, I run YJ front flares in the rear.  Other people have modified the rear TJ Bushwacker flares to run on both front and back.  There are quite a few ways to do it.

Well I was looking to the SPOA simply b/c it would be cheaper and seems to be a little easier. I expected to need chromoly axles, but I'd like to keep the stock sammy look if I can rather than swappin to yota or dana's. Maybe beef them up as much as possible. I'll have a set of spares from the parts zuk that would come with it just in case. I was thinking 6.1 t-case gears and swapping to a 1.6 w/ cam, header, and ignition. My wants for 35's are more an issue of looks rather need for clearance. It wont be a rock crawler, but if a boulder gets in my way it might be fun to just roll right over it. I know 33's give decent clearance on these, I just love the look of small suv's with huge tires.

I have also considered putting the RUF on it to add a little something extra. I know I dont NEED to go tall, I just want to. I was thinking 35x12.50 Kelly Safari DTR's. Not exactly cheap but have had good experiences with them and have found them to be virtually unstoppable on any terrain. I feel they are highly under rated.

I do indeed have a specific rig in mind. There are plenty of samurai's around here and they all seem to be stock and/or ragged out. I'd like to be the exception with a nice rig that is also highly trail worthy. Plus my buddy with a wrangler on 37's thinks its absolutely unstoppable and doesnt believe anything with smaller tires could out do it on the trail. Time to prove him wrong