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rear main seal

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Offline KickTurn

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rear main seal
« on: November 30, 2007, 04:22:45 PM »
I did some searching, but I didn't find quite what I was looking for, so here goes:

95 Sidekick 4dr 4x4 16v   150,000 miles

I've got the tranny out for other work, and I was planning to replace the rear main seal while I had access.  I have a Fel-Pro seal ready to go. 

1) Can you remove the seal housing without dropping the oil pan?  My manuals make it sound like you can't get the housing out otherwise, but some posts here sound like you can pull the rear main seal housing with the oil pan in place.

2) The other alternative is to pull the seal without removing the housing.  I don't like the idea of doing this with a prybar, as some of the manuals suggest.  Instead, I'll drill a couple of small holes in the seal, screw in a couple of small wood screws, and pry on those.  Anyway, the manuals indicate that removing the seal without the housing is not advised, I guess because it can be hard to drive the seal in straight.  Any experience with this?

3) If you can't get the housing off without pulling the pan, and if it's not ideal to pull the seal without removing the housing, is it better to just leave the existing seal in place?  It's probably the original with 150,000 miles, but it looks perfect-- no hint of a leak.

Can anyone answer some or all of these questions?  Thanks.

95 Kick JLX 4x4 4dr 1.6 16v. 
235s, manual hubs.

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Offline crikeymike

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2007, 08:35:39 PM »
The only way i know to do it is with the oil pan off.

I have never had a need to change that seal on any of my past or present sidekicks.  I would leave it alone unless you actually have a problem with it.

I think it was a pretty decent design to start with which is why most don't have any problems with it.
1993 4-door Sidekick
3" hybrid Calmini/OME lift, 2" B/L, Rear air locker
Shrockworks bar & sliders, Full skid plates
4.24:1 t-case
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kingzoo

Re: rear main seal
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2007, 07:59:16 AM »
   If the transmission is already out,I would put a new rear main seal in.That way you know you should not have to pull the tranny again to replace it later.Dropping the pan is not that bad,and a new pan gasket is always a good thing.
  Just my opinion.

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Offline Rhinoman

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2007, 09:36:59 AM »
   a new pan gasket is always a good thing.

Unless its not supposed to have one.
2000 Vitara 1.6, 3+3 Lift, 33"MTs, 5:83s, LWB brakes, Winch, Snorkel, Safari Rack
1986 SJ413K PickUp, 1.6L conversion.

OBD1 - Full diagnostics on a PC/Laptop: http://www.rhinopower.org

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kingzoo

Re: rear main seal
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2007, 10:07:59 AM »
   Very true.

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Offline crikeymike

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2007, 11:21:36 AM »
The problem is that the original gaskets (take the 3rd member seal for example) seem to last a hell of a long time from when they were first put in.  Anyone who has tried to pull a 3rd member in a sidekick that has never been out before can attest to how strong the seal is.

What i've seen in the past is that once a seal has been changed once, it will need to be changed again.  I've bought a  lot of cars before where the oil pan gasket/seal was changed and it never lasted, especially since most of them are done with silicone nowadays.

Not to put anyone else down, but i'd say leave it the way it is and attend to it later if necessary.  If you somehow didn't install it right, then you could have much bigger problems than if you never did it.
1993 4-door Sidekick
3" hybrid Calmini/OME lift, 2" B/L, Rear air locker
Shrockworks bar & sliders, Full skid plates
4.24:1 t-case
 WAZUKS member - visit http://www.wazuks.com

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Offline daddyizzle

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2007, 11:28:56 AM »


What i've seen in the past is that once a seal has been changed once, it will need to be changed again.  I've bought a  lot of cars before where the oil pan gasket/seal was changed and it never lasted, especially since most of them are done with silicone nowadays.



I can agree with this but what's the correct way then, which sealant and what brand gasket?

-Adam
If all criminals were behind bars, there would be no one left to patrol the streets.

86 Samurai Tin-Top stock with a Harley 44 sidedraft carb

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kingzoo

Re: rear main seal
« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2007, 12:09:52 PM »
   Any brand of good gasket,the one I just used was a felpro,and I like permatex products.If you are not using an oil pan gasket,just silicone as many do,make sure to get gasket maker.

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Offline daddyizzle

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2007, 12:51:26 PM »
You think form a gasket by itself would work? I'd be afraid of some of it getting loose inside and clogging the oil pick up or getting in a bearing.

-Adam
If all criminals were behind bars, there would be no one left to patrol the streets.

86 Samurai Tin-Top stock with a Harley 44 sidedraft carb

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Nine Pine

Re: rear main seal
« Reply #9 on: December 01, 2007, 01:23:07 PM »
   I had to change this seal just weeks after replacing the transmission. It was not leaking at all when the old transmission was removed. Two weeks later I had a very serious rear main seal leak. So , out came the new transmission to get at the seal. Such is life.
   I think I would replace it, unless you enjoy pulling the transmission and tranfer case. I did not remove the seal housing when I changed mine. The recommendation of the manual is to remove it, as you stated to keep from damaging the seal housing bore and/or the crank itself while prying it out. I did not want to deal with pulling the oil pan too. I did exactly as you suggested and tapped two screws into the seal flange which is surprisingly stout. Then using two pair of channel lock pliers, one on each screw, I pulled the seal. I had no problem getting the new seal installed. 4,700 miles later still no leak. The seal I purchased was a FEL-PRO (BS 40603), which included the housing gasket.
   Good time to take a real close look at that pressure plate and clutch also.

   Sincerely,
   Nine Pine   

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Offline Rhinoman

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2007, 02:10:44 PM »
You think form a gasket by itself would work? I'd be afraid of some of it getting loose inside and clogging the oil pick up or getting in a bearing.

-Adam

The FSM that I have (1.6) shows no gasket for the sump. You have to use just enough sealant to ensure even coverage but not enough to spread outside the joint. If its EFI then you should use a sensor friendly sealant, the vapours from 'normal' silicon sealant will contaminate the O2 sensor.
2000 Vitara 1.6, 3+3 Lift, 33"MTs, 5:83s, LWB brakes, Winch, Snorkel, Safari Rack
1986 SJ413K PickUp, 1.6L conversion.

OBD1 - Full diagnostics on a PC/Laptop: http://www.rhinopower.org

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Offline bentparts

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2007, 02:17:11 PM »
If it aint broke, don't fix it. 
The usual stuff, and 2nd generation Air to liquid intercooled TURBOCHARGER

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Offline KickTurn

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Re: rear main seal
« Reply #12 on: December 02, 2007, 10:28:51 PM »
Thanks for the replies.  Looks like opinions are about 50-50.  I'll have to think about this one some more.
95 Kick JLX 4x4 4dr 1.6 16v. 
235s, manual hubs.