I have been having trouble with the back of my cylinder head holding a few bolts. Previous owner over torqued the three bolts on the distributor shaft extension housing trying to solve the leak. Maybe if he had put the o-ring in there it would have helped! I've tried helicoils and thead lock and it just won't hold. Now I want to try some lab metal and grade 8 studs. Probably 5/16.

Or I could clean the holes out good and leave the heli coils in and then take some lab metal rated upto 350 degrees and some m6 studs and screw them into the helicoils and hope the lab metal will permanently bond the studs into the holes so I can just put a few nuts over the studs. I want to solve this problem once and for all since it is the very last leak (for now-haha)

What do you think??

How hot do you think it gets on the back of the head??

Do I need to special order the lab metal that is rated upto 1000 degrees ??

-Adam

lab metal ?? is that your term for epoxy?
if you epoxied the studs in , that should work. i would order the high temp stuff just for good measure. problems like this are always a bitch. hillbillys shouldnt be allowed to purchase things like torque wrenches or allthread
i saw a motor once that someone did a head job on and stripped out one of the bolts, replaced it with all thread.

lab metal ?? is that your term for epoxy?
if you epoxied the studs in , that should work. i would order the high temp stuff just for good measure. problems like this are always a bitch. hillbillys shouldnt be allowed to purchase things like torque wrenches or allthread
i saw a motor once that someone did a head job on and stripped out one of the bolts, replaced it with all thread.

Lab metal is the actual name. You can google it. It's rather pricey. $25.00 buys 12 ounces (about a cup). I think the Hi temp stuff is $35.00 + $10.00 shipping. Fasten-all only orders by the case. I didn't want to special order a whole case so I better see's  if 350 degrees stuff will work. I just don't want to keep drilling and end up with a jacked up head. There's only so much metal to work with so I need to cut it pretty close so to speak.

-Adam

lab metl seems like a goeat solution to rust repair, but it also says it bonds using air and doesent look like it's designed for bondin two things but more for like building up layers of metal
literature to refer to
http://www.alvinproducts.com/Upload/Downloads/Downloads23.pdf refer to page 12

i really think you would be better using a 2 part epoxy that hardens by means of a chemical reaction
some ideas
http://www.epoxies.com/tech/10-3213R.pdf
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/pdf/7056AL.pdf

good luck, i'd prolly get some hi temp J-B weld and call it good

lab metl seems like a goeat solution to rust repair, but it also says it bonds using air and doesent look like it's designed for bondin two things but more for like building up layers of metal
literature to refer to
http://www.alvinproducts.com/Upload/Downloads/Downloads23.pdf refer to page 12

i really think you would be better using a 2 part epoxy that hardens by means of a chemical reaction
some ideas
http://www.epoxies.com/tech/10-3213R.pdf
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/pdf/7056AL.pdf

good luck, i'd prolly get some hi temp J-B weld and call it good

From what I understand,  this spot of the engine shouldn't get much above 250 degrees.  I'm going to try and tap it to 5/16 and use some 300 degrees locktite red. It seems to be the cheapest route. If I had some hi temp I would use it but Napa doesn't even have it. No one around here does. I couldn't find the hi temp JB Weld either. I wonder what temp JB Weld is rated? Maybe I'll just juse regular 5/16 bolts and hi temp locktite blue. I think studs and nuts is the better way to not strip it out again though.  I still have a couple days to think about it.

-Adam