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New clutch

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DAC1138

New clutch
« on: March 22, 2007, 02:13:57 PM »
This weekend I have to go out and buy a new clutch kit and install it on my 96 sidekick. Anyone do this before? Do you have any advice for me before I dive in? What's the simplest way to do it (simplest way instead of taking it into a shop and having it done)

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Offline crikeymike

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2007, 03:03:01 PM »
Pay close attention to remove ALL of the bolts around the bell-housing to the block.  They can be tight to get to, but you can feel them all with your hands, then squeeze the tools into position.  Have a floor jack ready to hold it under the tranny drain plug as it's kinda balanced at that point.

Don't forget to drain the tranny and t-case fluids first cause when the driveshafts come out, the fluid comes out the same holes.

If you're going to do it properly and replace the pilot bearing, you'll need the special puller for it also.
1993 4-door Sidekick
3" hybrid Calmini/OME lift, 2" B/L, Rear air locker
Shrockworks bar & sliders, Full skid plates
4.24:1 t-case
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Offline daddyizzle

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2007, 03:20:33 PM »
You can also take a strap and support the tranny through the shifter hole. Works on my samurai. This way I'm not fighting for space with the jack and don't have to worry about it wobbling off when my arms get tired. When I put my tranny back in, I put the tranny in gear and turn the yoke at the back so the front of the tranny shaft splines will mate with the splines at the back of the engine. Make sure you line your bolts up when you rebolt the tranny so you don't strip anything.

As far as the bushing too., I didn't know there was one. Maybe it's the same for the samurai. If so, where do you get it, and what's the part #?

When I pulled my bushing, I took one of those expanding concrete anchors and a couple of huge washers I had laying around, When I tightened the nut, the anchor expanded in the bushing and it pulled the bushing up the threaded bolt. It worked but a tool would have been nice. I better get one of those!

My 2 cents.

-Adam
If all criminals were behind bars, there would be no one left to patrol the streets.

86 Samurai Tin-Top stock with a Harley 44 sidedraft carb

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DAC1138

Re: New clutch
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2007, 03:23:01 PM »
Thanks. I totally forgot about the fluid. I'll have to get some when i get the kit. What kind of transmission fluid is it? Just anything that says "transmission fluid" or does it have to be specifically for a manual rather than an automatic transmission?

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Offline crikeymike

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2007, 11:49:30 AM »
It's gear oil that you'll need.  I think 75W-90 is recommended.

Definitely do not put "transmission fluid" in there, as that's almost always for automatics only.
1993 4-door Sidekick
3" hybrid Calmini/OME lift, 2" B/L, Rear air locker
Shrockworks bar & sliders, Full skid plates
4.24:1 t-case
 WAZUKS member - visit http://www.wazuks.com

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DAC1138

Re: New clutch
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2007, 10:54:31 PM »
alright, thanks. I ordered the clutch and it should be in the shop by tomorrow. so along with that i need to buy some fluid too. But i was reading the ARRC manual online and it said for the 4x4 version you dont need to drain any fluid, thus no replacement. What's the deal?

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Offline daddyizzle

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2007, 11:50:59 AM »
True, you don't have to drain the transmission fluid or change it to change the clutch. You may choose too since it needs changed periodically anyways. It would also help on the weight a little bit. Not sure on your transmission's capacity. I know that if you have fluid in it and tilt it back quite a bit or tip it upside down, it will leak out and you'll have a stinky mess anyways. As far as fluids, I like to add some lucas in with it. You can add the same formulation of Lucas to your manual transmission as you would add to the engine oil. Just don't buy the Lucas for automatic transmissions, it won't work for yours. Read the bottle to make sure. When I changed my tranny fluid, I added a quart. Made the transmission quieter. Only problem was a little difficulty in shifting when the temperature was cold outside until the transmission was warmed up. Otherwise worth it. Buy it by the gallon and save$$

By the way, It's easy to add fluid right through the shifter hole, just don't over fill.

-Adam
« Last Edit: March 24, 2007, 06:06:07 PM by daddyizzle »
If all criminals were behind bars, there would be no one left to patrol the streets.

86 Samurai Tin-Top stock with a Harley 44 sidedraft carb

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Offline Rhinoman

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2007, 02:38:08 PM »
Liker Adam says you may lose fluid out of the tcase if you let the propshaft slip out.
2000 Vitara 1.6, 3+3 Lift, 33"MTs, 5:83s, LWB brakes, Winch, Snorkel, Safari Rack
1986 SJ413K PickUp, 1.6L conversion.

OBD1 - Full diagnostics on a PC/Laptop: http://www.rhinopower.org

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DAC1138

Re: New clutch
« Reply #8 on: March 25, 2007, 08:54:26 PM »
So today went pretty well. Everything went according to book except for one thing. When it got to removing the whole clutch assembly and bell housing, we couldn't disconnect that from the engine. We got all the bolts, and we get to the vague parts in the instructions where it says to "pull away and lower." simple enough. We have it lifted on a jack now, and we're still in the process of trying to jerk it away from the engine. But the thing is, the bolts/studs on the case are sort of dragging and keeping it from being pulled away. No matter how much we tug and pull and jerk, it won't pull away farther than it has already (about 1/2 an inch). We're so close to getting it off, but so tired from all the work today. Anyone have advice to make this come off a little more smoothly?

Also, when we lost some transmission fluid when we removed a shaft. Where do you add more gear lube or transmission fluid? I read that you can add the fluid directly through the opening when you remove your stick shift. Right now we have the stick shift taken out and we can see the whole transmission below. Is this correct? Am I able to add fluid directly down there through the stick shift opening, or is there another location to pour this stuff in?

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Offline daddyizzle

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2007, 06:23:51 AM »
Since you are taking it down, drain the fluid. there is a drain plug. Then you can add it back through the shift hole. There is also a plug to add the fluid. If you remove that plug, and put the drain plug back in, you just add the fluid through the shift lever until it starts leaking out the fill plug. Not sure where each plug is, but anybody that works on cars should be able to identify each.

Now for removing the transmission. Take a deep breath, and study it. Maybe something that needs to be removed hasn't or there is still a bolt attached somewhere. Take a closer look, I think you'll figure it out. It will come down. Just keep trying. But look at it real close first. Patience. You must be missing something. Give it some jiggle.

-Adam
If all criminals were behind bars, there would be no one left to patrol the streets.

86 Samurai Tin-Top stock with a Harley 44 sidedraft carb

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Offline crikeymike

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #10 on: March 26, 2007, 07:27:27 AM »
The bolt that i missed was on the upper side of the bellhousing, on the opposite side of the starter.

Go in from the driver side down behind where the exhaust passes.  This one is hard to see.
1993 4-door Sidekick
3" hybrid Calmini/OME lift, 2" B/L, Rear air locker
Shrockworks bar & sliders, Full skid plates
4.24:1 t-case
 WAZUKS member - visit http://www.wazuks.com

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Offline Vagabond

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #11 on: March 26, 2007, 08:38:22 AM »
I hope that you bought a new pressure plate or had the old one resurfaced.
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Offline mrfuelish

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #12 on: March 26, 2007, 11:19:03 AM »
Most of the time you forget to remove the little sheet metal dust shield on the bottom front of the bell housing. the starter bolts have to come out also. don't forget the speedo cable and the two electrical plugs on the top of the trans.
1987,1988,1988,1990 samurai's,  1953 m38a1,  1996 x-90,blue.1996 x-90 red.1994 2 door tracker.   only Dead Fish go with the flow.                No Hairy Nosed Wombats were ran over on the trail today.       My ZUK is Xenophobic.

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DAC1138

Re: New clutch
« Reply #13 on: March 26, 2007, 03:33:31 PM »
I hope that you bought a new pressure plate or had the old one resurfaced.
Yeah, I did. I got the whole kit. Includes the pressure plate, flywheel, alignment tool and the throwout bearing.

I got all the bolts already, even the hard to see one opposite of the starter. Every bolt is out. It just looks like the studs are catching  and being dragged. I'm going to try looking around for anything we possibly forgot to disconnect, but I'm pretty sure we got everything.

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Offline Skyhiranger

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Re: New clutch
« Reply #14 on: March 26, 2007, 06:21:15 PM »
By the way, It's easy to add fluid right through the shifter hole, just don't over fill.

-Adam

You sure about that?  Trackick trannys don't have a big 'ol hole for the gear oil to run down into the tranny case, like on the samurai's.  The PO of my sidekick tried that trick.....I thought it was weird that I could see gear oil when looking down into the shifter hole. ::)
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