I've had 2 trackicks both with noisy valves (or sounds like valves) when cold/under load.  Adjustment doesn't really do much.  Any advice based on similar experience?

I'm thinking maybe they are just noisy little engines.  BTW this board kicks ass.  In the last month I've done enough research hear to do my entire build-up (planned but not paid for).

Well, if it sounds like a sewing machine, that's what it's SUPPOSED to sound like!    It could, however, be your fuel pressure regulator.  Hmm, loud when cold...

How's your oil level?  What kind of oil are you using?  You don't happen to have a loose lug-nut, on the left rear wheel do you?  (No, just kidding, that wouldn't be it - OR WOULD IT???)

Oil is good, no smoke, power is good (as it gets), engine has 104 km on it.  Just sounds slightly clicky in the top end of the engine.  I was just asking before I spend some money on it.  I want to build-up a solid rig so I thought I'd ask the Zuki B.B. what they thought.

I'm in Toronto and there's a limited zuki following up here.  Wish a new of a 4x4 shop that didn't laugh at zuki's.  

1.6L?  8-valve or 16 valve?

My 16 valve makes a clicking noise under "just a little" throttle.  It's the fuel pressure regulator.

I've had 2 trackicks both with noisy valves (or sounds like valves) when cold/under load.  Adjustment doesn't really do much.  Any advice based on similar experience?

I'm thinking maybe they are just noisy little engines.  BTW this board kicks ass.  In the last month I've done enough research hear to do my entire build-up (planned but not paid for).

Is this when the car is in neutral and an accessory is turned on like the lights or heater? The earilier fuel injection systems give a real rat-a-tat-tat sound that is quite loud. This noise will be quite annoying if you have taken off the air box and put on a cone filter. You can make it even louder, for testing purposes, by removing the crossover pipe for the induction.

Another thought is, based on your "under load" statement, that you have a rod knock. If there is no noise / very little noise when your engine is free wheelin but there is considerable noise when your accelerating / pulling something. This could be it.

HTH, Eric

It's a 93 with 104 km, no rust.  I bought for 3k Canuk in Toronto.  That's good if you know my market.  8V of coarse.  Everything on this tracker looks near new.  

BTW my friend and I figured out the easiest fix for computer failure on the trackick.  We hooked up the fuel injector (TBI) directly to the battery.  No computer/no problem.  Great and easy road side repair even.

Oh.  An 8-valve.
I haven't had one of those since I traded in my 91 on a 95.  They DO make roller-rocker arms for the 8-valve, if I remember correctly...

  My 16valve sounds like yours.  Thought it was the valve adjustment but it made no difference.  We're thinking now that it is piston slap.  But its been doing it for 40K+ miles so I don't worry too much.  I have heard of using a heavier (I think!) oil to help but haven't tried it.

Noisy valves? Hah. I drive a chimney...

Mine does it, my little brother's does it, they both run great and have well over 100,000 miles on them now.

I don't remember mine making much noise, but then again I got it with a burned exhaust valve, so I didn't drive it too much before the head was redone.

Piston Slap

I got it, but then again I got 275,000
miles on those pistons too

Switch to 0-20w synthetic for the winter and my noise went away in my wifes 8v engine.

Switch to 0-20w synthetic for the winter and my noise went away in my wifes 8v engine.

What is that, 50% Kerosene, and 50% 5W30?

Never heard of such a light weight oil!  Sounds like...
...sewing machine oil!  And what does a sidekick engine sound like?  A sewing machine!  Makes sense!!!  

Hey Bob, don't you remember the
Mobil1 coming in 0-50W, I was like  

The spread of #s in synthetic oil is
not such a big deal as in conventional
oils, it seems they put microscopic plastic
threads in conventional oil, they roll up
when cold, and unroll when hot to simulate
a thicker oil, even tho it's not, so if you use
conventional oil, you are really using to lower
# in the oil, it just acts thicker when hot.  Best
bet is to use the highest # oil your climate will
(and your engine) tollerate, turbo VW engine
builder Car Craft in Riverside Ca.  recommends
straight 40W in those engines. Multi Grade oil
was invented for your wife, 5 seconds after start
to 50 MPH down the road, poor engine  

Wild