The bracket that routes your cable is broken. If you loosten the bracket that holds the glass to the window crank assembly you can remove the glass through the top of the door ( you will need to remove the rubber trim at the bottom of the window opening) Once the glass is removed there is 4(?) screws holding the tracks and 2(?) holding the crank, remoce all of these and the whole window crank assembly can be pulled out through the holes in the door. You will probably need to get another assembly from a junk yard, but check it out first you may be able to repair it.

 OK, using a putty knife and screwdriver I've managed to remove the "rubber trim at the bottom of the window opening." The problem now is the window rides in a rubber lined steel frame so even when I push the glass to the top of the window frame it can't be tilted to lift out. There is a locking tab near the top of the window frame (toward the front) that I can use to pull out the outer rubber frame lining BUT this SAME rubber piece extends deep down into the door along the lower part of the window frame guide track. While it would be easy to pull this rubber piece out from the top, I'm VERY afraid that I would never be able to get it back into the lower part of the frame (inside the door) where I can't reach. PLEASE advise? Is it possible to make this repair with the glass still in the door? I figure that since window glass can get cracked or chipped that there must be an "easy" way to remove the window but I can't figure out how to do it without removing the TIGHT rubber track liner around the outer edge of the window BUT once removed this rubber piece looks impossible to get back into place in the lower part of the door. Once I solve the problem of removing the glass without displacing the rubber edge liner, I think I can remove the mechanical parts without any further trouble.  I'm stumped and worried.
     Thanks,
     Bruce

It looks complicated but it is not bad. At the very bottom of the glass there is a long piece that holds the glass to the crank assembly. There is a bracket in the middle of that piece that can be unbolted. When you look through the hole at the bottom of the glass you will see what I'm talking about. The rest of it is basically remving any bolts you see going through the inner part of the door. There are a few holding the actual crank, and a few others holding the center track. If you can get one fairly cheap I would just order it and replace it. If you try to epoxy the pieces back together you rish it breaking again and having to fix it again. Call Hawk Stirctly Suzuki at 1-888-Samurai and they can send you one.

OK, I'm making progress. If the window is pulled up at one end and rotated it can be taken out with the rubber window track in place. I've also removed all the other parts. None of the plastic parts are broken. The only bad part is a single broken cable which looks easy to fix (I've fixed many motorscooter cables). The only thing I need to know now is how to start the cables on the nylon crank spool. Does the cable that raises the window from the bottom to the top, go in the handle side (inside) of the spool (cable reel) or does it go in the window side (outside) of the spool???

Sorry for the delayed response, everytime I attempted to get on line this weekend, I would get a work call and have to get back to work You figured out the window trick, but I cant help you on the window cable part. I did not pay that much attention to it and I tossed my old crank assembly. I do remember that the cables should be running paraell when installed. I would try which ever one keeps everything evenly lined up the best. How do you fix the broken cable? Weld? Sodder? re-wind it?
  Well you can sometimes fix a frayed inner cable by clipping off the bad strands, fluxing, heating, and "soaking" the bad spot with ordinary soft solder but if the cable is snapped you need to replace the core. This type of thin cable is available at most larger hardware stores in different diameters. You can also use bicycle or motorcycle cable. Thirty years ago I would make the new ends by soldering on the necks cut from "solderless" connectors (a/k/a crimps) but these days I make my own custom end pieces. For this repair I made two new end pieces (nipples) 1/4" long and .160" in diameter with a .055" center hole from an old brass toilet float arm (I have a lathe). I simply clean the cable ends with brake cleaner, coat with red Loc-tite, slip on the new nipple and crimp the center of the nipple with a blunt chisel and hammer. In my experience the cable will snap before the nipple pulls off.
  My door is all back together now and everything is fine. Thank you for all your help.
  This car (94 Tracker) has 136,000 miles on it and the previous owner tells me it still has its original timing belt. Is this something I should be concerned about and if so are these belts easy to replace? What would an average repair shop or dealer charge to do this ?  Have you ever changed one of your own belts?

     Bruce