In my opinion, wheel spacers will not have a significant impact on the ride quality, and if the problem is caused by sidewall flex, the effects of the spacers may take the issue in the wrong direction.

Widening the track does make the vehicle in that it is harder to flip - picture a cone - if the cone gets taller with the same base, it becomes easier to tip - this is the raised center of gravity - if the cone gets wider for the same height - it becomes harder to tip - this is because the weight of the cone is further from the pivot point (the edge of the cone) - think of a lever.

Now picture a cone with rubber on the outer edges of the base - as the base gets wiser it does get harder to tip the cone, but the rubber also flexes more because of the increased leverage.

My 2 cents: In most areas at least in the US, wheel spacers aren't street legal. The reason is that they become the only thing bolted to the hub, & now your wheel is bolted only to the spacer. It's easy to find examples of wheels 'flying off' a vehicle, mostly in off-road situations.
IMHO you would be much better off getting wider wheels with less backspace. This widens your trackwidth without the risk of breaking a spacer or having the bolts come loose & sending your tire/wheel combo rolling off into oblivion.
Given the cost of most spacers, you can get wider wheels for around the same or not much more cost. Why bother with the extra parts to fail?

My 2 cents: In most areas at least in the US, wheel spacers aren't street legal. The reason is that they become the only thing bolted to the hub, & now your wheel is bolted only to the spacer. It's easy to find examples of wheels 'flying off' a vehicle, mostly in off-road situations.
IMHO you would be much better off getting wider wheels with less backspace. This widens your trackwidth without the risk of breaking a spacer or having the bolts come loose & sending your tire/wheel combo rolling off into oblivion.
Given the cost of most spacers, you can get wider wheels for around the same or not much more cost. Why bother with the extra parts to fail?

Because the wheels choices for these vehicles is very limited actually.  They have a large center bore and a somewhat rare bolt circle. 

their 5x5.5 with center bore hole 108mm or 4 1/4" most ford dodge and old cj jeep rims fit its the calipers on the 2nd gen that creates the problem but with a backspacing more than 3.75 or 3 3/4" then grinding abit of the front caliper would need to be done and its not a lot to take off like 1/16" very minimal. Finding something in the 2.50 or 3.0 backspacing would be optimal. IMHO spacers are not safe and add a lot of stress on other front end parts, also when you don't want them anymore you have to replace all your studs as you have to cut the originals for the spacers to work  for want ive seen   

IMHO spacers are not safe and add a lot of stress on other front end parts,

Spacers don't add any more stress that would be added by a wheel with equivalent back spacing.

Interesting about cuttting the studs.  I hadn’t considered that.  I could check and buy spacer accordingly.  And to be clear these wouldn’t be spacer but rather adapters.  From what I’ve heard they are legit and don’t create a safety issue.   

As for aftermarket I’ve looked at a lot of old Jeep rims and such but none really appealed to me so I thought I’d stay with stock wheels. I was really just trying to tighten up the front end a little but performance struts or beefed up sway bar might be a better way to attack that anyway.   I don’t want my tires outside the fenders anyway. 

Does anyone have a 5 spoke alloy wheel to sell me for a spare?  eBay wants like 60$ for one.  Which considering shipping isn’t too bad.

I got a pretty good deal on some 1" wheel spacers for my XL7 on eBay from Titan Wheel Accessories. You could give them a try. I can't give you any review on the spacers because I haven't put any miles on my vehicle since the install, but I can tell you I did not need to cut any studs.

I think you will find that the wider track will help you vehicle BE more stable, but it might not necessarily FEEL more stable, because with your soft factory springs, the fact that the wheels are farther out from the springs by an inch per side means that they have more leverage to act against those springs. This is a benefit off road because it helps coax some travel out of the IFS, but it's a disadvantage on-road because it will work against you for the same reason.

I think your misconception of suspension spacers adding to the spring rate may come from different vehicles with different IFS setups. I know in a previous truck of mine, a 2004 Tacoma which uses a coilover "strut" with upper and lower A-arms, ( versus our vehicles which use a separate coil and strut and only a lower A-arm), if you added a spacer inside the coilover assembly, it would stiffen the ride because it was basically preloading the spring, similar to what happens when you crank up torsion bars on an older IFS Toyota. However, there was also a style of spacer called an over-the-top spacer which didn't install inside the coilover (no need to disassemble the coilover), but just bolted between the coilover assembly and the frame mount for the coilover. This would give lift but no difference in spring rate because all it is doing is moving the spring mounting point lower relative to the rest of the chassis. This is exactly what the spring spacers in our Suzukis all do. All you are doing is moving the spring mounting point down. You could put a 9" spacer on there and it wouldn't be one iota stiffer than a stock setup. Check out Whitfield's rig on Zuwharrie if you don't believe me; he basically did just that, lowered everything down 9 inches.

Does anyone have a 5 spoke alloy wheel to sell me for a spare?  eBay wants like 60$ for one.  Which considering shipping isn’t too bad.

Check the local u pull it places, they usually have some around.  And Goodyear's have pretty stiff sidewalls, so you can rule that part out.