well I don't feel comfortable doing the timing chain on my 2.7 that I will be putting in my 2002 2dr as I have never done one and don't want to screw this up so want a mechanic to do it. The motor will be pulled and it will be easy to access. what I would like to know is how many hrs to pull chain and re-install  I just don't want to pay to much

I believe Mitchell calls for 11 hours of labor to do a timing chain on a 2.5 liter engine, but that's as measured in the truck.  If the engine is already pulled and mounted on an engine holder, I would think it would be AT least half that labor time. 

I'd think it could be done in four-five hours since the mechanic wouldn't have to drop the front diff or drain and then pull the radiator and then reassemble the same.  All he would have to do is remove the intake, valve covers, remove the two-piece oil pan and pick-up, then the front timing cover and go at it.... then reassemble those parts.

So five hours at $75... about $375-$400 for labor?  That would be my guess anyway. 

Did you say you had a new water pump to install into at the same time?

ya new water pump, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets and maybe oil pump if it doesn't look good

I would definitely make the time to take the time to replace all those components with QUALITY parts before you slip it into your truck, Beagle-t.  It will be money well spent in the long run and a LOT of aggravation saved after the fact.

ya I'm definitely doing chain and water pump and gaskets for sure. and i'm buying a 2 book 2001 fsm before I remove everything I already removed most of everything out of the 2002 even wiring harness is out just a couple little things left

The drive train I swapped into my Tracker had 30,000 miles on it, but had been sandwiched in an accident.  The water pump was very stiff and felt like it was dragging, so I replaced it.  My timing chain and guides had no wear, so they were not replaced, but new water pump was much smoother.  With motor on engine stand I I had everything except timing chain swapped out in one day.  Having been squeezed put stresses on water pump and front timing cover, and the cover cracked when tightening it back down (I had found another motor with a spun bearing for $50 so had that to replace it).
As your motor is running good, I don't see you needing parts for it, but if you do, those parts are available. 
As for changing out the timing chain, unless you have a mechanic that has changed out a Suzuki V6 before, I would be more confident in your doing it with photos and a FSM, than just another good mechanic.  (And then I still have the spare motor to double check alignments for you).  I also have both 2003 XL7 FSM's you could use, I do think the wiring is different, but mechanics of motor should be the same (I think shipping books is very reasonable).

ya motor runs good but has chain rattle when it has been sitting for more than a week for a couple of sec.. Once I get the FSM for the 2001 and read on how to do it I might be more comfortable and confidante with doing it. The reason for doing the chain and waterpump is I don't want to swap this in and find out in less than a yr waterpump goes or chain breaks, the leaky oil pan gasket is the problem where it loses oil enough that I don't feel comfortable with. don't worry BRD I will be asking questions to you when I start installing, and thanks for the use of your FSM but i think i will grab a 2001 service and wiring diagram 

They also are known for an oil leak between the to block half's where the oil passage go's to the top of the engine you mite want to take a look at that as well .the timing chain is not hard to do if you have it out of the car .

that's good to know I will be looking at all possibilities where oil would come from as I think the valve covers leak and I know that the oil pan does too. Its pretty dirty while in the truck so a degreaser bath will be the first project once its out

there is an oring in the oil passage on the oil pan but I would think that you will find that the oil leek is at the block half's.

to me it looks like its coming from the oil pan, I will find out in 3 weeks as it will be pulled out and sit on a engine stand to get a bath

My suggestion is that if you can run the engine now, you wash the engine now and then run it - unless I'm very much mistaken that leak is an "under-pressure" only leak, and figuring out where it's coming from with a clean engine on a stand will have it's challenges.

My suggestion is that if you can run the engine now, you wash the engine now and then run it - unless I'm very much mistaken that leak is an "under-pressure" only leak, and figuring out where it's coming from with a clean engine on a stand will have it's challenges.

An excellent point you make there, Fordem.

ya should try that ....but there isn't a lot of room to give it a good bath, when I crawled underneath it seemed to me that it was dripping out of the driver side at the oil pan. I haven't had it on jack stand or ramps to fully see but will definitively try to clean some of the oil/dirt mixer on it. And it really isn't that that bad (the oil mess). that will be the next step before I tear it out

I would support the engine and pull the driver side engine mount of and clean it and then start the engine up and let it show you for sure where it is leaking .