Oh.... Still confused...

My 3 speed Auto has torque convertor
lockup, but I don't know what made it
work, and it has not worked for years
as far asd I can tell

Wild

the lock-up is controlled by engine temp and the brake peddle not being pushed. There is also a pressure switch inside the transmission that prevents lock-up below a certain speed or in first/second gear. There are only 2 related wires going to the transmission, one is 12v and I have it wired through a relay so it looses the 12v if I apply the brakes (to keep it simple I disregarded the engine 'not warmed up' signal, its not that important), this will allow the solenoid to actuate when the (internal) pressure switch closes. The other wire is a signal to the computer telling it the lock-up has occured. I dont think it means much, its probally useless like the '5th gear' signal on the samis and trackers. I used it to light up a light so I know its on, it dosent have to be hooked up at all. Its pretty common for the lock-up function not to work, the solenoids jam, it wouldnt be a big deal if you didnt even hook it up

i think your wrong.

correct me someone if i'm wrong   but i'm sure torque converters work on hydraulic pressure. fluid from the tranmission flows into the converter spinning turbines inside, and lockup occurs when the pressure forces both turbines to spin at the same speed. so if you had a 3500rpm torque converter that means at 3500rpm both turbines would spin at the same speed giving you lockup. i think the electrical connections to the tranny are for kickdown.

no ?  

i think your wrong.

correct me someone if i'm wrong   but i'm sure torque converters work on hydraulic pressure. fluid from the tranmission flows into the converter spinning turbines inside, and lockup occurs when the pressure forces both turbines to spin at the same speed. so if you had a 3500rpm torque converter that means at 3500rpm both turbines would spin at the same speed giving you lockup. i think the electrical connections to the tranny are for kickdown.

no ?  

no, your wrong
the electrical connector goes directly to the solenoid that allows hydraulic pressure (trans fluid) to lock up the converter. The kick down is controlled by a vacuum line and cable going up to the engine. I just had mine totally apart to rebuild it. I am talking about the 3-speed, the 4-speed is electronically controlled by the computer and its kickdown is electronically controlled

ok

thanks

Thanks Zooky,
  The most it ever did was lower the RPM by
about 200-300, I never noticed the difference
in fuel mileage, maybe now with the turbo and
bigger tires, witht eh 5.83s I would get a little
better mileage, would be nice to see if it helps
more now I have the power to pull it.

It seems to be an electric or electronic, I'm not
sure which, that would dis-engauge when I put
my foot into the throttle, and you could get to
a point that was annoying when it would kick in
and out over and over very quickly, if I could wire
it so I could control it that might be an idea, until
I stoped and forgot about it, that would stall the
engine I think, like not pushing in the clutch ??

Wild  

i think your wrong.

correct me someone if i'm wrong   but i'm sure torque converters work on hydraulic pressure. fluid from the tranmission flows into the converter spinning turbines inside, and lockup occurs when the pressure forces both turbines to spin at the same speed. so if you had a 3500rpm torque converter that means at 3500rpm both turbines would spin at the same speed giving you lockup. i think the electrical connections to the tranny are for kickdown.

no ?  

Yes, and No

Yes Torque Convertors are a hydraulic actuated thing,
but in this case the lockup is an electric thing, not related
to the hydraulic pressures of the Torque Convertor.

 Trust me, I've done the manual to auto thing, and vice versa, to a pair of kicks, you don't want to do that!
There are so many physical differences between the two trucks, like the wiring, transmission tunnel, console, computer, brake pedal assembly including switches, etc.
This is a nightmare swap! I think that it would be an easier swap to put a GV v6 into a kick than this!

    WELL ITS JUST A THOUGHT AT THIS POINT BUT LOTS OF GOOD INFO OFFERED THANKS     MATTY D.  

Oh.... Still confused...

THE REASON I WAS THINKING THIS IS THAT MY WIFE INJURED HER RIGHT WRIST LAST APRIL, WHICH WE THOUGHT WOULD HEAL.IT HAS NOT STILL NO STRENGTH IN HER RIGHT WRIST . I ORIGINALLY WAS LOOKING FOR AN AUTO. BUT COULDN'T FIND ONE . SO I BOUGHT THIS TRUCK NOT KNOWING THAT HER WRIST WASN'T GONNA HEAL. EVERY NOW AND THEN I NEED TO TAKE HER VAN WHICH LEAVES HER WITH NO WHEELS . THERE FORE THIS CAME ABOUT AS A THOUGHT, CAUSE I HAD IT FOR SALE FOR A SHORT WHILE , AND WAS GONNA START OVER IN AN AUTO. KICK. BUT PEOPLE THINK THAT THE LIFT, TIRES, ETC. ARE CHEAP CAUSE THE ONLY OFFERS I GOT WERE BARELY BOOK PRICES.....HOPE YOU AREN'T CONFUSED NOW    MATTY D.  

what about taking the lift and stuff out?

stu

YA why not? buy one with an auto, swap evrything over then sell it as a stocker. Thats probly the only reason to keep the stock stuff around.

OOOPS TO LATE FOR THAT  :-/  BUT ALL IS GOOD I CAN DRIVE IT  

Should keep the wifey away from the toys anyway ;-)