I had my head redone and now after putting it back together I can't get it to fire up.  The engine turns but no back fire or even an inkling that it wants to fire.  Pretty much it just turns.  The timing light shows spark and firing.  I have aligned the notch on the bottom pulley to 0 degrees and the top crank pulley to the "E" and the distributor\rotor to fire at #1

The head shop did take my cam bolt off so it could be the valves are not closed but I don't know at this point

I know it is hard to diagnose with my description but any help is appreciated

thanks

I work alone most of the time so i pull the number one plug out, stuff a piece of scott towel in there real hard and crank it till you hear it pop out, pull your cap and line the rotor up to number one wire with the crank turned back to 0.

What vehicle are you working on? Does sound like you may have the distributor in the wrong notch though.

I had my head redone and now after putting it back together I can't get it to fire up.  The engine turns but no back fire or even an inkling that it wants to fire.  Pretty much it just turns.  The timing light shows spark and firing.  I have aligned the notch on the bottom pulley to 0 degrees and the top crank pulley to the "E" and the distributor\rotor to fire at #1

The head shop did take my cam bolt off so it could be the valves are not closed but I don't know at this point

I know it is hard to diagnose with my description but any help is appreciated

thanks

If the cam pulley "E" mark is up (12:00), then your rotor should be pointing at #4 tower.  If it is pointing down (at 6:00), the the rotor should be pointing at #1 tower.
My guess would be you either have the distributor in wrong, or you forgot to plug something in on the wiring harness.
With the cam pulley in the position in the attached pic, your rotor should be pointing to the #4 tower.
Notice there are also 2 positions that the cam pulley can be installed.  But only one is correct.  The key/pin in the end of the cam goes in the slot that is opposite of the proper "E" mark.

I'm going to recheck to make sure everything is plugged in

I reset both bottom to 0 and top to E with slot like the picture

I was setting the rotor to #1 so I will set it to #4 and see what happens

I know it is getting spark but it just doesn't seem like the cylinder ever ignites

Could the valves cause this if set incorrectly with the cam?

Thanks

I'm going to recheck to make sure everything is plugged in

I reset both bottom to 0 and top to E with slot like the picture

I was setting the rotor to #1 so I will set it to #4 and see what happens

I know it is getting spark but it just doesn't seem like the cylinder ever ignites

Could the valves cause this if set incorrectly with the cam?

Thanks

If you have the cam pulley on the cam, like in the pic, then it is on correctly. 
If you were setting the rotor (distributor), to #1, then that is your problem.  Set it to #4 and it will work, as long as you have everything else right.
You can have the distributor set wrong, and you will still get spark.  The problem is, you don't get spark at the right time, so the engine won't run.

I'm on the same page with you now so tomorrow I am going to give it another shot and report back how well it runs

Thanks again

Seems the timing is the least of my worries.

I checked compression today and I have no compression in any cylinders

I could really use some help and hope I didn't screw up too badly

Any ideas?

Seems the timing is the least of my worries.

I checked compression today and I have no compression in any cylinders

I could really use some help and hope I didn't screw up too badly

Any ideas?

Are you sure your valves are set right?

perhaps it's time to pull the front cover off again to ensure the timing mark on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket line up correctly.
this would be tdc#4 (so distributor rotor would point at plug 4).
turn engine over 360deg. and it's tdc#1.
good time to check valve lash also.
you got a manual for this? i refer to mine regularly.
i bet you'll be fine if you get the valve timing(and ign. timing) right.
most of this is easier if you plull the plugs first- it's easier to turn over.

I'm second guessing myself so I am going to take a step back and re-read the FSM, Thanks Ack, and then as Rascott suggested

Remove it again for another look to make sure everything is aligned and no valves are bent - I have read from Bentparts that it is nearly impossible to do but if my timing marks all line up I'm going to have to remove the head again and spend another $30 for a 3rd gasket

If your going to pull your head back off check your valves on the bench.all you have to do is make sure the valve you are adjusting is off the cam lobe. Good luck   We've all been frustrated with valves and timing issues before. The last one that got to me  had the key way on the crank welded up and moved 180 degrees to the other side of the crank,they just didn't bother to change the timing mark on the pulley. Made me quite illvtill I figured it out.

I'm second guessing myself so I am going to take a step back and re-read the FSM, Thanks Ack, and then as Rascott suggested

Remove it again for another look to make sure everything is aligned and no valves are bent - I have read from Bentparts that it is nearly impossible to do but if my timing marks all line up I'm going to have to remove the head again and spend another $30 for a 3rd gasket

My guess would be your valves are not adjusted correctly.  I would look at those very closely, before I would pull the head again.
Unless you had the valves way out of adjustment, I don't see it being a bent valve issue.

A humongous thanks to all

As usual the board rocks

I reset the cam and crank according to Sky's picture

Equally important I set the valve lash with your help

I am still having an issue with the distributor timing - I set it to 12 and put the rotor at the #4 cylinder but it didn't want to start

After playing around with the distributor and trying to get it precisely where it needs to be I have had my Zuki running.  I took the adjusting bolt off and moved the distributor about 2" forward and it runs so now I have to figure out where that would be at 12

Thanks again and I will be on the trails again soon