Alright... So i had a cranking but no start problem one morning, went out with my fsm and did some diagnostics, got down to a burned out igniter inside my distributor... (no movement of tach while cranking)... so i ordered a new distributor, i put the new distributor in using the instructions from the kick fix site...

1. bring #1 to 0degrees TDC on compression stroke (i can't blow air into the spark plug hole)
2. Mark #1 spark plug tower on distributor body
3. Install rotor on disty the correct way (rotor pointing toward long flat side of shaft)
4. Slide distributor into engine making sure rotor lines up directly with mark for #1 spark plug tower.
5. Install cap and wires (i know it spins counter clockwise, and i understand the firing order)

After i do all this i try to start but still have nothing(not even on test fuel), and no movement of the tachometer while cranking???
I put a timing light on the #1 wire and check timing while cranking and the timing is so far off i can't even see the timing mark on the pulley when the strobe flashes???
I have checked and re-checked EVERYTHING... Cam Timing, timing belt, valve lash, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, i have checked for shorts going to and from the noise suppresor, and also for a shorted noise suppressor... i have checked all my grounds and everything appears to be good, i don't understand what i could be doing wrong, all i can wonder about now is if it is my ecm somehow, but like i said i have the fsm and it doesn't point in that direction when i'm out checking things out, (i can get it to connect with my scan tool, and it seems to be sending voltage everywhere it needs to be)  ANY help or ideas would be GREATLY appreciated, thanks guys

Put the timing light on the #4 spark plug and see if the timing mark
is visible when you are cranking it, if it is you have the plug wires on
at 180* out, at that point the easiest thing to do is swap all the wires
to the opposite post from where they are.

If the timing mark still doesn't show, you could put the timing light lead
on the coil wire and see if the mark shows up, if it does then, you need
to figure out which one it is and use that post for #1

Wild

ok, i had some help last night, so this is what i did
i pulled the bolt holding the distributor so i could adujst the timing a long way, then while she was cranking it i finally got the timing to be close to perfect by advancing (rotating clockwise) the distributor so far that now the slot where the adjustment bolt goes is off the hole so it can't be bolted in...
after getting the timing right i pulled the cap to see where it was firing in relation to my mark for the number 1 cylinder, and it is firing AFTER it passes the tower, just off the trailing edge of the rotor???
so i pulled the disty again, and advanced the rotor 1 tooth on the camshaft in hopes it would fire a little earlier... no dice
now while my girlfriend was crankin on it i had to advance the distributor TWICE as far as the first time, and it STILL fires after it passes the tower???
so i pulled it one last time, moved it to where it was originally, then retarded the rotor on the camshaft by one tooth... now it fires close to perfect and i can bolt it on, but every time it is firing after it passes the tower, that just doesn't seem right to me... i have good spark off the coil tower, but weak spark at the plugs, not even strong enough to ignite test fuel. i suppose it could be the cap and rotor itself, but those are pretty much brand new and look good, so i'm hesitant to buy new ones... I'm running out of ideas now, any more help would be great, thanks

Check the rotor to make sure the flat in the mount hole is
really lined up like it's supposed to be, because it sounds
like the rotor is on in the wrong spot, you might need a
new one, just a thought

Wild

Yeah, I'm with wild, the rotors can be put on in several positions on these things. Really a confusing way to do it, I've put mine on incorrectly positioned in the past and it sounded just like the issue your having.

Hell, I had a rotor in my old 8V distributor melt, I got no
idea how that happened, but it was causing a jump to the
wrong cylinder and popping under boost, not good at RPM

Yeah, definitely take a look at the rotor position on the disty shaft.  There are 3 flats on the shaft and the one that the end of the rotor is supposed to be lined up with is the one where the disty shaft "wall" is thinnest.
I bought a sidekick once that was doing the exact same thing yours was.....firing after it passed the tower on the cap and the disty was turned clear to the edge of its adjustment range.  I got to looking at the rotor and noticed it would fit on in all 3 positions.  It ended up being off a position.  I removed the rotor and put it on in the right position, moved the distributor to the center of the adjustment range and it started and ran perfect.  I then used my timing light and precisely set the timing (the disty will be right at the center of the adjustment range, when everything is set right).

If all of that checks out, or doesn't make a difference, then I'd look at the lower timing belt pulley/cog to see if the keyway is worn/damaged, from the big center bolt not being loc-tited and torqued properly.