Any updates on the passenger CV situation?

I think I've got a plan to make it work. After much reading, the GV center has a 10 mm offset to account for the air actuated clutch inside the diff, so the passenger stub is 10 mm longer and the driver side axle is 10 mm shorter compared to a vit or a sidekick. A 125 mm stub shaft for a vit would need to be 115 mm for a GV. Mine is 126 mm so I have to cut 10 mm off.

The combination of the passenger side outer CV and axle with the driver side inner gives an axle that is almost right. Without the lift I don't think it would be safe to run it, but as the lift gives 10 mm extra length, it should be good to go.

Here's where I am stuck: I'm not sure that a 115 mm stub will clear the mounting bolts of the diff bracket. To test this I will need to get a new stub made, or fab one myself.  I have to find a shop that does that kind of work and find a inner passenger cv or reuse my old one.  I might have to countersink the lower mounting bolt, which would be a pain.

Anyhow I will look into it this spring as I also want to get a hidden winch plate and winch, maybe a dual battery set-up, all the wiring and maybe some kind of way to override the air actuated diff to be able to do 2wd low range.

still have the vibration?

Still having the vibration. I though that the 1/2 inch driveshaft spacer fixed it but it's the weight in the vehicle that did the trick. I will have to cut the rear springs to 29 cm as the guide says and add some more weight in the front (winch) to balance it out, hoping that it will fix everything.

I think I've got a plan to make it work. After much reading, the GV center has a 10 mm offset to account for the air actuated clutch inside the diff, so the passenger stub is 10 mm longer and the driver side axle is 10 mm shorter compared to a vit or a sidekick. A 125 mm stub shaft for a vit would need to be 115 mm for a GV. Mine is 126 mm so I have to cut 10 mm off.

The combination of the passenger side outer CV and axle with the driver side inner gives an axle that is almost right. Without the lift I don't think it would be safe to run it, but as the lift gives 10 mm extra length, it should be good to go.

Here's where I am stuck: I'm not sure that a 115 mm stub will clear the mounting bolts of the diff bracket. To test this I will need to get a new stub made, or fab one myself.  I have to find a shop that does that kind of work and find a inner passenger cv or reuse my old one.  I might have to countersink the lower mounting bolt, which would be a pain.

Interesting. I am running into a similar issue. I just did the shift-on-the-fly elimination by swapping my XL7's diff internals for those out of a Sidekick, and came across an undocumented parts difference between the CV axles. The XL7 uses a slightly larger CV joint and halfshaft, so I was not able to make the hybrid CV like they tell you to in the SOTF elimination instructions on the main page. I think for my purposes it will be adequate to run a Sidekick Sport CV axle at a very slight strength disadvantage, but I was hoping you had figured out how to make the 3-bolt flange work on the passenger side WITHOUT any track-widening mods so that I could just run a driver's side CV on the passenger side. So far I don't know of a single case where a driver's side CV has been successfully installed on the passenger side on a 2nd gen, with or without widening. I believe we are both caught at an "impasse".

To make the driver side fit without any widening, you will need to shorten the CV axle from the middle section and make a 115mm stubby out of the XL7 inner cv. Then you should end up with a 2 part CV axle with the stock length. The inconvenient thing about this is increased CV angles and parts availability. There is no way to fit a stock driver side axle in the passenger side of a 2nd gen as is. Either you have to make a hybrid CV and have some kind of widening mod or cut the CV to make it shorter. I wish they didn't change the axle length going from sidekick/vit to grand vitara. Would've made all these mods easier.

It's sad, for the amount of work and messing around, it's almost more worth your while to convert the CVs to Toyota ones using a kit like this one: http://www.zukparts.com/Suzuki-Vitara-to-Toyota-Hilux-CV-Conversion-Kit

(that is from a NZ website so when they say "Vitara", you should hear "Sidekick")

I am heading to a well-reputed local welder tomorrow to have the longer Kick stub welded onto the bigger XL7 cup. I won't be making a 3-bolt flange setup though, just keeping the same crappy design and hope I never blow a passenger CV on the trail.

Anyhow I will look into it this spring as I also want to get a hidden winch plate and winch, maybe a dual battery set-up, all the wiring and maybe some kind of way to override the air actuated diff to be able to do 2wd low range.

2WD low range is as simple as inserting a switch into the circuit - either between the 4WD switch on the transfer case and the 4WD controller or between the controller and the pump.

If the switch is between the transfer case switch and the 4WD controller, it prevents the controller from knowing when 4WD has been selected so it never turns the pump on, if it's between the controller and the pump, it will prevent power from reaching the pump - either way, the pump is not turned on so the freewheel clutch never engages to send power to the wheels.

This seems pretty easy to do, I will look into the circuit diagram to see where the connectors and wires are located, great idea!
That conversion kit seems very nice, I would really like to get my hands on one, but it will have to wait a couple of years   , maybe I will do it at the same time as installing a front air locker or LSD, I have heard that the stock CV's break often when using a locker in the front.