That is what mine is doing, right about 2000 at steady rpm and not noticeable when under load. Mine cleans up to a minor miss above that. It occasionally does the bog like yours. I wish I could help but I can't find my problem! It has to be a sensor or computer as far as I can tell. What distrubutor cap are you running? Have you check to see if you are getting spark jump?
Thanks
Kj

Hey redkick, you might try unplugging your TPS and see how it runs!

I did disconnect it. It ran worse, particularly because the tranny must receive shift point info from it. It would shift to 4th ASAP. Still looking for part # TH392 for less than $225. Hoping to find one at the junkyard.

maybe your mass airflow sensor it will cause it to bog out

Have any luck yet? Yours being an auto would make it more difficult! I'm just driving mine unplugged it runs decent but I'm sure it would run better with a new one.

KJ,

I just ordered a used TPS online for $70 (comes with the throttle body too!). I'll let you know how it runs when I have replaced it.

I'm wondering if I can successfully port the throttle body?

KJ,

What reference did you use to check your TPS? I am beginning to think that my Haynes manual is misleading me on either connector terminal guide (with their labeling of ABCD) or parameters for the various measurements. Or my replacement TPS that I bought responds almost identically to my old one...

Ugh.  Replaced it anyhow.  Will see if it runs any differently.

I just went to the library and checked out their motors manual for engine performance. Turns out the Haynes manual I have gave the wrong instructions on which posts to connect to when testing the TPS.

The good news is that I now have 2 good TPSs and 2 good throttle bodies.

The bad: car still bogs.

Will keep looking into it....

Any luck yet? None here! I used kick-fix.com to set mine but no luck. I'm going to try the other tps I have and if that doesn't do it I'm going in after the timing belt!
Kj

My 96 was a bit slow around 2K as well.  Talking with Wildgoody about it he ran his about 2 degrees forward of what the factory recommended, as do I.

On a 96-98 the diagnostic plug is up next to the passenger side headlight.  At 800 rpm stock the timing is around 8 degrees, I run mine at 10.  Or 7 with the diagnostic plug enabled.  Engine runs great now, lots more power on take off.  Mileage is still a bit lower then I like though, as I was getting 27 mpg with the old engine.

If your running 5 degrees of advance at idle your probably around 3 degrees behind the curve.  One way to find out where it is supposed to be at with 96+ models is to get an ODBC II scanner.  It can tell you what timing the computer thinks it is using, then just tune appropriately.  Not sure if an ODBC I scanner does that.

I ran mine up at 10 deg. But it pinged a litlle so I backed it down to 8. It turns out that it is a lean condition! I think it might be the freshly cleaned and inspected egr that was good. It makes sense now! The egr that was in my supposed low mile junk yard engine was froze up so I took the egr out of the old engine and cleaned it up, it tested good. About 600 miles later, while driving thru town it started sputtering and missing. I went on kix-fix.com and did his tests. I unplugged the MAF and it ran better. I then unplugged the ECT and plugged the MAF back in. The sputtering went away and ran better with more power. The fellow on kick-Fix said it should run really rich this way! It doesn't though...maybe a touch but really doesn't seem to!! Sorry for the long winded reply! Thanks for helping!
KJ

If your running 5 degrees of advance at idle your probably around 3 degrees behind the curve.  One way to find out where it is supposed to be at with 96+ models is to get an ODBC II scanner.  It can tell you what timing the computer things it is using, then just tune appropriately.  Not sure if an ODBC I scanner does that.

You can get ignition timing from an OBD1 scan tool:

http://www.rhinopower.org/Rhinoview/Rhinoview.html

I just put a jumper between 4 and 5 on the test plug and set it at 8 degrees. I finally found the problem. The modulator isn't getting enough pressure thru the egr port to close the modulator vacuum port. No codes! Not even now, after plugging the outlet of the vsv. Runs good now and until I can see why it isn't getting the pressure. Kick-fix.com said a lack of back pressure in the exhaust could cause it! I can't thank everyone enough!
KJ

KJ,

Glad you got it fixed.  Where did you get this info on the modulator, etc?

Thanks

Redkick,

I got the info on kickfix.com. It seems I poked around a little and came
across it. Lots of good info on there.

Kj