So, what you're saying is BOTH:

1) The starter does nothing when you turn the key -- No clicks from up front, no spinning, nothing.

and

2) You attempted to push-start the truck (in 2nd, I trust) with the key "on" and, while the engine spun, it didn't fire.

If both of those are true, I'd lean toward ignition switch, battery cables, or battery.

If the motor didn't even turn when you attempted the bump-start, then it sounds seized.

Beercheck,

1.  Starter does nothing.

2.  I did attempt on pushstart the truck.  But.... not in 2nd gear....  Why specifically 2nd?  I pushed this very same truck on an old motor in 1st gear, it worked.

Jzap,

I bypassed the clutch saftey switch, it didnt do anything, so Im assuming its still good.  otherwise its still wired up together.

And how is it possible this engine could be seized?  I mean I rebuild it.  everything is to its torque spec, and im able to rotate the crankshaft.  Ive rebuilt a few 1.3 and 1.6 motors with success (maybe I F**ked up on this rebuilding process?) lol, but nothing like this.... the electrical BS.  if its the battery cables.... I wonder if Im grounding the battery wrong.  Where do you exactly ground the neg cord from battery?  I just want to make sure im grounding them right. 

I had the battery checked by Les Schwab again yesterday, they said its still good.
So, Ill look at the battery cable and ignition switch.

So have you just replaced the motor and now it won't start?

The battery ground goes to the upper starter bolt, and then there are some grounds from the engine to the chassis (and some other grounds from the chassis to the frame).

When you turn the key to ACC does the check engine light illuminate?

Beercheck,

1.  Starter does nothing.

Good.  Just wanted to make sure it wasn't trying to turn an engine that wouldn't turn, thereby SEEMING as if it was doing nothing when, in fact, it was doing the best it could.  If the solenoid isn't even clicking once, that's a good sign.

2.  I did attempt on pushstart the truck.  But.... not in 2nd gear....  Why specifically 2nd?  I pushed this very same truck on an old motor in 1st gear, it worked.

2nd gives you a better shot.  You don't really need to turn the engine over very fast to bump-start, but you do want at least a couple seconds of engine crank, especially if it hasn't run in a while/ever.  1st gear will try to spin the engine up real fast, but the compression will kill your speed real quick, leaving you with one very short, all-or-nothing bump.  In second (or even 3rd if you've got a pretty quick push), you may well get a few seconds worth of no-clutch turnover, giving the mixture a chance to get into the cylinders.

... and im able to rotate the crankshaft. 

Then it's not seized.  Whew.

The thing is, the starting circuit is the simplest thing on the truck.  You can run power right to the starter and it should turn.  Simple electric motor.  Someone earlier mentioned using a screwdriver to short the circuit right there at the solenoid. 

I once had a car where the starter went out.  At least, that's what I thought.  Went to Autozone and bought a new/remanufactured one and installed it.  The car still wouldn't turn over.  Had the battery checked again.  All good.  Had the old starter checked again.  Definitely bad.  Removed the alternator and had it checked.  Tested fine.  Finally exhausted every other option and took the new/remanufactured starter back and made them give me another one.  Put it on and...presto! 

You definitely NEED to make sure that starter is working.  Then cables.  Then ignition switch. 

If you are getting voltage to the starter solenoid you should hear it click even if the starter is bad. If you do not hear a click when you turn the key to start, Pull the small wire off the starter (the one that activates the solenoid) check for voltage there when the key to start. If there is no voltage there start tracing the wiring back. That circuit is probably fused I would start there.

Update:

Finally found the problem..... it wasnt anything close to what we have discussed on this forum.

APparently the previous owner had an aftermarket alarm installed and removed it.  And left a mess.  I seriously thought that wiring "mess" had something to do with the stereo.  Occasionally it would disable the ignition system.  This time it did for good.  I had a suzuki mechanic to look at it.  (former suzuki mechanic).  He took my tracker away and said he will find the problem.   Removed the wiring mess... now its all good.  Im hella grateful for the mechanic.  hahaha  I was just on the verge of giving up.... if it wasnt for my wife....

Bam, now its all running.  Damn.

I am having this problem, I just unhooked the alarm wires, and there was a little box that I think was the ignition interupter. Well while I was down there my screwdriver hit some lead wire (that someone had pigtailed into the ignition hot wire) Did I fry my ignition? When I turn it on NOTHING. No click no power. By the way 94' tracker 8v

On the passenger inner fender by the battery are some big fuses. Check those one of them will be blown.

Sidekicks rock... Thanks so much. The fifty amp fuse in there is blown. Hope thats it.

Thats it, I have blown it changing an alternator before

Now it just clicks under the dash. Two little relay looking boxes are both clicking. Nothing past those.

Ok I finally got it figured out. There was a black an yellow wire haning off. It turned out to be the solenoid relay wire. Thanks for everyones help. You really saved me some $. Which I need right now. Thanks to eveyone on this site for all your input, and feedback you guys are great.