Good catch fordem, thanks for that correction.   I should have stated that the lower part of the strut pivots with the spindle, but with the two bolts holding it to the spindle, it can't rotate 360.  It moves back and forth in a small arc (to turn as you stated).  That was my point about the lower strut.  As far as the shaft... it protrudes through the strut mount which appears to be just a bushing on my Trackers (and which also frequently seizes to the shaft requiring it to be replaced with the strut) and then is secured by the nut on the top.  Given the above, I just don't buy into the concern of the screw-on strut extenders becoming "unscrewed" during vehicle operation if they are properly seated when installed AND the actual extender/s used are well machined and made of a quality metal.  The quality of the strut extenders being the key.  That said, I am driving on BDS extenders which I do intend to replace before long.  Whether I go with Dave's (Bits4Vits) or have some machined locally, I do intend to replace them.  Knock on wood... no failures yet though. Hope I better stated my thoughts.  Thanks.

nprecon - I fully agree that quality is a key point.

However - something else crossed my mind after I made that post, on the struts I've replaced there has always been a way to hold the strutrod  so that the nut can be tightened - either flats on the end of the rod or a hole to take an allen wrench - neither of which would be accessible when you're installing a screw-on strut extender - seems to me there's no way to ensure that the extender is properly attached.

Hello!!

check these strut spacers too!!

http://outdoorauto4x4.com/b/22762/1/grand-vitara-xl7.html

nprecon - I fully agree that quality is a key point.

However - something else crossed my mind after I made that post, on the struts I've replaced there has always been a way to hold the strutrod  so that the nut can be tightened - either flats on the end of the rod or a hole to take an allen wrench - neither of which would be accessible when you're installing a screw-on strut extender - seems to me there's no way to ensure that the extender is properly attached.

the screw on ones have a flat on top as well, but,  all Ive ever used was an impact gun, it bottoms out on the steel bushing inside the rubber mount, trust me, its tight.....

-Lance

i've been running the bds extensions for 2yrs and have had no issues other than installing them, had to use heat to thread them on.  popped 3 strut mounts since using this setup.. have not front bump stop extensions though..

the screw on ones have a flat on top as well, but,  all Ive ever used was an impact gun, it bottoms out on the steel bushing inside the rubber mount, trust me, its tight.....

-Lance

I think we're looking at the same area, but different locations - what you seem to be describing is the external thread at the top of the strut extension, where it passes through the mount - yes you can get that tight - where I'm looking at is the internal thread at the bottom of the extension, where it attaches to the strut - there seems to be no way to hold the strut itself, so that you can tighten the extension to the strut.

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I think we're looking at the same area, but different locations - what you seem to be describing is the external thread at the top of the strut extension, where it passes through the mount - yes you can get that tight - where I'm looking at is the internal thread at the bottom of the extension, where it attaches to the strut - there seems to be no way to hold the strut itself, so that you can tighten the extension to the strut.

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ooohhhh, thats what your talking about, all ive ever done is use vice grips (lightly) on the shaft, but you also need to heat up the extension part first, they are somewhat of an interference fit, once they cool down after being installed they are tight.

 

Also Red Locktite works.

sir lance, I still think the reason the screw-on strut extenders need to be heated to install or the strut shafts polished is because the strut extensions are not machined properly.  Poor quality milling.  The last set I installed I took them to my neighbor and he measured the inside with a micrometer and found they were several thousandths out of round.  He milled them "true" after measuring the strut shaft diameter and they screwed right on... smoothly I might add.

sir lance, I still think the reason the screw-on strut extenders need to be heated to install or the strut shafts polished is because the strut extensions are not machined properly.  Poor quality milling.  The last set I installed I took them to my neighbor and he measured the inside with a micrometer and found they were several thousandths out of round.  He milled them "true" after measuring the strut shaft diameter and they screwed right on... smoothly I might add.

that would not suprise me at all, come to think of it, ive used about 4 differend sets (on sidekicks and gv's) and every set fit a little different that the other.... but i know this, if i ever have to change out a strut, they will be a bitch get get off lol

ooohhhh, thats what your talking about, all ive ever done is use vice grips (lightly) on the shaft, but you also need to heat up the extension part first, they are somewhat of an interference fit, once they cool down after being installed they are tight.
 

I can't help but wonder, how many people have had premature strut failure due to tool marks on the rod destroying the seals.

The vice grip marks would be at the very top of the shaft, very unlikely this part of the shaft would recede into the strut housing to even get close to the seals.

The vice grip marks would be at the very top of the shaft, very unlikely this part of the shaft would recede into the strut housing to even get close to the seals.

Change would to should and I might agree with you - it all depends on where the person doing the install grabbed the shaft.