My 95 Tracker's been fut-fut-futtering as of late, like it's missing, idles rough, the power isn't there until it "kicks in."

This especially happens first thing in the morning (think wet South Florida dew), but then it usually gets better after about 10, 15 minutes of driving. Sometimes it's okay when I get in at lunchtime, but sometimes not. Same thing when I get in at the end of the workday.

I don't know the first thing about mechanical work, but with the current economy and the state of MY personal economy (lousy), I figured I would do some stuff myself. First, I researched my parts via Advanced, go to the store, but they don't have the distributor cap I want, so he pulls another.

I can see it's the wrong cap right away--doesn't have the center connection, but it's coming up in the computer as correct for the vehicle . I say forget it, I'll go to Pep Boys later for the cap. So he just sells me the plugs (no gap Bosch) and cables.

I go to Pep Boys, open my hood, and notice that no way the center (non-spark) cable I got at Advanced is going to reach. So I get another set of cables at Pep Boys where they give you TWO center cables (one at the length I need), and I get the cap. But two different routers are coming up as correct for the truck, and they both look like they'll work, but one looks "righter," the wider one. Any hint on this mystery?

Finally, I bought those little packets of the greases (or whatever you call them) for the top and bottom of the plugs, and now I just have to make sure I have a long enough socket to remove and install the plugs.

This can't be TOO difficult, right? As long as I make sure I'm replacing the right length cables for each plug?

Help--cause I'm more than just a little nervous. And if this doesn't fix it, what's the next possible culprit?

Thank you for walking me though my paranoia. And if Jeff gets on a plane and does this for me, I'll buy another set of spacers from him.

I don't know too much about Track/Kicks but, do yourself a favor and buy a repair manual, everything you could want to know about a tune up is usually in the 1st chapter. As for your cap and rotor dilemma, I had an 85' Toyota 4X4, built in Nov,84' at some point Toyota changed the distributor for 85', whenever I had to change cap and rotor I told the parts guy I needed 1 for an 84'. Perhaps yours was an early or late production vehicle as was in my case. Good Luck.
Norcal

So far, it's a total disaster. The cap and rotor were an exact match, so no problem there.

I made my diagram, replaced the cables with the exact ones, but plugs 2 and 4 wouldn't go in. After a turn or two, they torqued too tight. Also, the spark collars on the cable seemed too long, preventing contact, so I trimmed them down a hair until I felt it click.

But she won't turn over, with two new plugs and two old ones.

Next attempt is two get the two new ones in there, but this isn't rocket science. What's weird is that the new ones are 5/8, and the old ones are bigger, but the depth appears the same. Should this make any difference? That nut is just to install the plug.

HELP!!!

Double check your plug wires, be sure they are at correct location on your cap. Which motor do you have, I assume you have the 1.6 16v 4 cyl? And what "nut" are you refering to?
Norcal

Thanks for replying--and fixed for now!

It was the contact in the rotor--the little moon-shaped aluminum/metal disk. It comes from the factory in a certain position, and has to be pulled up to make contact.

So she's starting fine, running smooth, but this with the new Bosch 2 titaniums in 1 and 3, and the old ones in 2 and 4. The Bosch won't screw in there. (The nut I was referring to is the nut you turn to screw the plug in. The Bosch is 5/8, and the old ones are bigger. I think 11/16.)

I just pulled into someone's driveways who always does work on his cars, and he said my engine should take NGK plugs. (Or NJK?) But I don't get it--what's the difference?

And that couldn't have anything to do with those plugs not fitting, right?

Additional Edit: The old ones are 13/16.

Cool, NGK would be the plugs he is referring to, as long as the plugs are the same thread size it really doesn't matter the manufacturer. Compare your old plugs to the new ones, check to see if all of your old plugs are the same model/part #, they can be a little tricky to get in if they are properly lined up with the threads, take your time, don't get mad and DON'T cross thread! Be sure to use a spark plug socket, the rubber piece inside will hold your plug in the socket and will make it much easier to align.
Norcal

I just used a regular socket, and I'm going to leave it for now until I get to friend of mine in know to help me get them in there right. But is it coincidence that 2 and 4 won't thread in?

And as I edited above, the old nut was a lot bigger--13/16.

Check the threads in the head itself, make sure they are clean an free of any apparent damage. I don't know why # 2 would be difficult, but # 4 on a Sammi is sometimes tricky.
Best of luck,
Norcal

I appreciate you hanging in there with me!

At least I didn't blow up the neighborhood.

Glad to offer some help!