when i look on the these sites like camini when you buy there lift they send you manual 4x4 hubs i think thats what there called. so when we lift these do we have to in stall these?? i have the controls for 4H and 4L in the cab??

It is highly recommended that you install the manual hubs because the way these trucks are set up is fairly stupid. Instead of manual or auto-locking hubs, all we have is a cap with splines inside it, so it is a "permanently locked" hub. This means that it turns the CV shafts and wears out the CV joints, which will be accelerated more when you put a lift on your truck.

So, by putting the manual hub on and setting it to "FREE", your CV shafts do not spin with the wheel, thereby saving you wear and tear, and also netting you slightly better fuel economy.

x2
It's a good preventative maintenance idea.
In bad weather if you think you'll need it lock it, and then from inside decide when you need to put it in 4wd or not.
If you get a kit without it; and whant to keep the cost down, you can use manual hubs pulled from a Sidekick at a wreckers.

ok . so as long as its in free im safe.so to turn in on i do so out side first, then the inside?

so what really makes up a lift? bigger springs, good shocks/struts, w/ spacers if needed, what am i missing besides the arms. just thinking it might be better deal to get them all individual, well not really a better deal but better for the long run.

ok . so as long as its in free im safe.so to turn in on i do so out side first, then the inside?

Yeap, and you can put it in 4x4 just in case you decide later to put it in 4wd.

I just have OME springs and R.R. spacers.  It would be nice to get those Calmini A-arms, but they only sell them as a package deal (from what I hear).  I've bought my stuff bit by bit, which seems to cost a bit more if not in price then in shipping.

Depends on what you whant in the end and your wallet.  It's like a push/pull.  Lift then tires, then drive train, then more lift because of tires still rubbing???