I have learned a heckuva lot from ya'll in the past few months and thanks to all those who take time to reply.  One thing I still cant find are the gear ratios in tcases?I own a 95track & 96kick both auto3sp. both 4x4. None of the cases Ive looked at anywhere are marked.Can anyone fill this hillbilly in on some info.....thanks...

After doing a search on this sight I found that most cases are geared 1.82:1. Thanks again to users who are always ready to help out. If anyone knows any or all tcase ratios other than this please let me know... THANKS

As far as I know the t cases were all the same ratio. I will be putting some lower gears in mine over the winter.

Derek

These threads might help:

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=1323.0

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=11249.0

Hi range is 1:1, low range is 1.8:1

Upgrade Options:
Getting a new tracker gearset or Kicker 3. The new gearset is cheaper, but only reduces the low range. Hi-range reduction will remail 1:1. A Kicker 3 puts a Samurai T-Case behind your tracker T-case. The Samurai T-case has a hi-range reduction of 1.4:1 (40% lower!), I forget what it is in low range, but trust me... you won't need to worry about it... because if it's now low enough, you just engage the Tracker T-case and get another 80% reduction - practically doubling the low-range of the Samruai.

Kicker 3 is for those of us running BIG tires. Forget it unless you're wanting to run 33"+ tires.

Thanks Jman, my configuration is simple...1.6,3spd auto,5.12s,33s.If my calculator is correct that gives me a crawl ratio of 22.364. Which for me is fine for this one, but my next one will be on 38s. For more ground clearance...

38? Wow - I'm not even sure if I want to go bigger than 35" on my 4-door 

That said, the Kicker 3 will correct to a 37" tire. Most people run 35", or gear down the diff / case a little more to get the engine to over-rev anyway to make up for rotational mass. I'll be running 4.88 diffs, and both t-cases will be stock. With an automatic, we can get away with it 

It will a complete toyota drivetrain set-up. I know a lot of work, why not build a toyota truck,why does anyone do it? cuz they want to I guess. It will be fun and give me something to do this winter...

I really do mean this in a nice way... but...

I think using a toy drivetrain is a waste of money and time. In fact, it's counter-productive. You're throwing out all the advantages of the Suzuki, and replacing them with all the problems of a Toyota. A Toyota on 35" tires WILL break axles, birfs & rings. A Suzuki won't, because it's MUCH lighter, and has less power. A suzuki with 35" tires will be reliable, with a complete toy drivetrain it won't. You're going to add at least 1000 lbs to you zook... for what?

I really do mean this in a nice way... but...

I think using a toy drivetrain is a waste of money and time. In fact, it's counter-productive. You're throwing out all the advantages of the Suzuki, and replacing them with all the problems of a Toyota. A Toyota on 35" tires WILL break axles, birfs & rings. A Suzuki won't, because it's MUCH lighter, and has less power. A suzuki with 35" tires will be reliable, with a complete toy drivetrain it won't. You're going to add at least 1000 lbs to you zook... for what?

Dude You are so way off base on that information... 1.6L mated to a Toy Trans and Axles ROCKS.. Toys hold up to 38's all day long STOCK,  Zuk axles maybe a 33 if you are lucky.

Not quite all day long with stock birfs. 

sami axles are tooth picks compared to toys.

Defiantly agree with rockrat

Maybe I'm mis-understanding "drivetrain" then. If you're talking t-case to wheels, hell - that's basically what I'm running. Toy axles are awesome, and arguably the best upgrade for big tires on a zook. I also like the Aussie locker - which isn't available for zooki stuff  :'( I thought he was meaning trans & engine as well, which puts a lot of weight + power = stress on everything else. If you go this route, look to get a toy IFS box & a bigger power steering pump also. I've not got experience with either, but I prefer the Kicker III setup (dual suzuki cases) over toyota, as it gives a lot of gearing options & hi-range reduction. To my knowledge, toy cases are 1:1 in hi-range?

Not sure on the birfs - some seem to think they last fine, some say they break. I know Chromoly birfs & inner axles range from $200 to $700 depending on how much stronger-than-stock you want 'em. I've read the ones from Bobby Long (Longfields) are as strong as Dana 60  But expect to pay a premium for that strength.

Kick case and Toy cases are virtually the same except the Toy is stronger, They are both 1:1 High range box. Toys are 2:28 low. They have gearing options of 4.1 4.7 and 5.1. Yes a Toy motor is an anchor. GREAT ENGINE BUT HEAVY.  I am a Toy fanatic but for power to weight Ratio I still go 4.3 before a toy motor.

My favorite crawling video...
check it out



Amilla

 My friends,I hardly think the weight of a Toyota motor is any concern,when i'm going to be running 38's.Both Zukis and Toyotas are made in Japan,I've owned both,and when it comes to what breaks and what dont,27 years of driving 4 wheel drive vehicles has tought me that you dont need alot of motor to get anywhere, just the right combo of drivetrain that matches the size tires you are running. Toyota in my opinion done just that, 22years ago.22re,5speed,gear driven tcase, and as far as the axles, just dont hit the skinny pedal no more than you have to!