Ok. I am trying to get my ring and pinion out of my beast. I have removed the yellow circled bolts. Now that leaves me with one BIG bolt in the center. I tried to loosen, to no avail. Although I am new at differentials, I am thinking that the axle circled in green probably has to come out before the bell housing (The thing with the BIG bolt on it) will pull off. Am I correct? So  how do I get the inner axle out of the Diff? I tried hammer, prying with a big screwdriver, but it won't separate.

If I am doing this wrong please adivise.

I hate to say it, but I'm pretty sure you can get your 3rd members out without unbolting all that stuff out of your rig...

Instructions from Autozone:
http://www.autozone.com/N,314700/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008856e

You have to take all the bolts out of the third member(the yellow ones) then you have to remove the axle, to do this use a pry bar and it will come out, don't be scared to pry on it. DON'T remove the large nut on the pinion it does net need to come out to get the third member out.

ok, just pry it out. K, thank you for your time. I will try that.

Here is a pick of my old one that I am trying to pull the ring and pinion out of.

You could remove the third with the axle housing bolted in the trackick.....but it would be a big PITA.  Much easier to remove the front axle assembly (like you have done) and take it apart.

Yes, all the bolts that you circled in yellow have to come out (there should be 8 of them).  Pay attention to the bolts, because 2 of them are different than the other 6 (the 2 "oddballs" take a 14mm wrench/socket to remove them, so it is pretty obvious which ones they are).

The axle circled in green has to come out too.  The axle can sometimes "stick" in the housing, use a block of wood up against the 3 holed flange, to protect it, and use a BFH (big F'n hammer) to smack the wood block really hard and the axle shaft will pop out.  Stand with your foot on the side of the thirdmember, to keep the axle housing from sliding when you are smacking the axle flange.

The big nut on the end DOES NOT need to come out to remove the complete third.  It holds the flange on the end of the pinion gear and only has to be taken off if you are changing the pinion flange, removing the pinion gear, or replacing the pinion bearings (basically anything to do with the pinion).

IIRC, you are just swapping complete thirds out, so simply remove the 8 bolts that hold the third in the axle housing, remove the axle shaft, then the third will come out (it may be kinda "stuck" in the axle housing....since it has sealant on it to keep the gear oil from leaking out)......if it is stuck, just turn the axle assembly so the pinion flange is sticking straight up in the air, stand on the long axle tube and  grab onto the pinion flange and rock the third back and forth and it should pop loose......if it doesn't use a block of wood against the edge of the thirdmember (just under the pinion flange) and gently, but firmly, tap it with a hammer.

It's a little late but as the broken axle ass. seems to be out of the rig and the donar axle ass. is complete why not just swap the whole dang thing? Make it a heck of a lot easier and faster cutting out a few unneeded steps.

It's a little late but as the broken axle ass. seems to be out of the rig and the donar axle ass. is complete why not just swap the whole dang thing? Make it a heck of a lot easier and faster cutting out a few unneeded steps.

I agree, I've just done the same swap.  Take the two front mounting brakets off your old diff and put them on the new one and then pop it in.  The only reason to keep your old pot would be if it was a steel one from and XL7 (which it looks like it is not), or there's something wrong with your doner pot.

When taking your diff out the passanger side axle will just pop out if you remove the tire and unbolt the strut form the top.  Just lean the strut outward; while watching the brake line, a second pair of hand or rope to stop this from stressing the brake line is good.  If the end of the axle (round green part) doesn't just pop out, give it a couple of taps with a screw driver and hammer (BFH not needed here ).

Check out the Shift-On-The-Fly Removal article for the Vitara, same process (except they try and keep their steel pot) just a different reason.  It'll give you a good idea of what you'll be doing.

PS I read the torque specs for bolting on the 3rd member on the pot are 36 ft/lbs.  I busted a bolt trying to get it that tight, I checked my old diff and they came out below 25 ft/lbs.  Be carefull not to over tighten, its a f|removethispart|@*n pain to try and drill a bolt out of aluminium.  Maybe the specs I read were for the Vitara steel pots, or my torque wrench is screwed.

When taking your diff out the passanger side axle will just pop out if you remove the tire and unbolt the strut form the top.  Just lean the strut outward; while watching the brake line, a second pair of hand or rope to stop this from stressing the brake line is good.  If the end of the axle (round green part) doesn't just pop out, give it a couple of taps with a screw driver and hammer (BFH not needed here ).

PS I read the torque specs for bolting on the 3rd member on the pot are 36 ft/lbs.  I busted a bolt trying to get it that tight, I checked my old diff and they came out below 25 ft/lbs.  Be carefull not to over tighten, its a f|removethispart|@*n pain to try and drill a bolt out of aluminium.  Maybe the specs I read were for the Vitara steel pots, or my torque wrench is screwed.

To get the passengers side axle assembly out you do not need to lean the strut outward (or even take it loose).  Once the drop brackets are unbolted from the axle housing and the 2 bolts are taken out of the crossmember and the 3 bolts are taken out of the drivers side axle assembly, the whole axle housing assembly will slide to the drivers side, allowing the passengers side axle shaft to slip out of the housing (I have removed probably 50+ of these, so I know it works).  To get the passenger side axle out of the housing, simply take a flat screwdriver and pry between the green part of the axle and the axle housing, the axle shaft should pop loose without damaging anything and the axle housing will drop out (it usually takes a little bit of moving and shifting the axle housing around to get it to drop out, but it will come out).

If you were checking at what ft.lbs. the bolts broke loose when removing.....know that the "break loose" torque is lower than the tightening torque.  For example, if they are tightened to 35 ft.lbs., it does not take 35 ft.lbs. to break them loose to remove them.

If a steel bolt breaks off in aluminum the easy way to get it out is to take a nut the same size, or a size smaller, as the broken off bolt and place it on top of the broken off bolt.  Then take your welder and fill the nut full of weld, concentraing the weld on the end of the broken bolt, the weld should weld the nut and broken off bolt together, plus the heat from welding should help the bolt loosen up.  Wait for it to cool a little bit, then simply take a wrench and turn the nut and the broken off bolt should come with it.  I have removed a lot of twisted off bolts in both aluminum and steel using this method.  A lot faster and easier than drilling and trying to use an ez-out....in my experience.