Does anyone know the moog part # for their camber bolts or a good alternative?I'm getting ready to do the suspension and body lift . I would like to have the camber bolts  as I'm changing the struts at the same time and I want to be able to move the top of the tire in through the camber adjustment.I don't like the top of the tire out look .Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated as the bolts are $28 here each!!   |removethispart|@$%XZ#!! yes I said $28  I have seen them at parts places in the US for $12 so I figure I could have them shipped here for cheaper ! Sometimes the parts guys here have you by the nuts and they know it !
Thanks!

specialty products company- pn 81250
www.specprod.com (haven't looked here)
i got them from my local brake supply shop. they fit many cars ("vehicles w/12mm strut bolts").
the box of 2 cost |removethispart|@ $28?
richard

I found Eibach # 581270k for $35 they are for toyotas but I'm not sure if they will fit.My local Canadian tire wants $28 eack but he has ones that he can get fior the fron $19 each but he has to order them I'm not sure if they will work either!

if you would rather not spend the money on the camber bolts you can slot one of the strut holes on the strut to allow for proper alignment.  if you prefer bolts make sure the cheap ones are the same grade steel as the pricey ones.

Here's how I did mine:
Remove the top bolt and push in the top of the knuckle with an air hammer till it hits the strut body.


Then grind out the holes in the strut with a good metal cutting bit in a good dremmel so the bolt goes back through. Clean it up so you can slide it back and forth.  You can put a washer in, and once it's lined up at the alignment shop, you can tack weld the washer so it doesn't move.  Some struts are designed this way from factory.

i did the same thing as uncivilized when i put my lift on.....been like this for a lil bit over a year, and no issues with anything working free or anything....i've even jumped her a couple times, and my camber is still right on! i used lock tite on the strut pinch bolts, and cranked them down as tight as i could get 'em....i didnt use an air hammer to position it either, just left the bottom bolt inwith the nut off, and i put a scissor jack under the ft. hub and lifted the hubtill it wouldnt go anymore, and then womped out the holes, and mashed it all back together! the bolts are more accurate....but this is the simplest! and its still alignable

just a thought.
i considered the slotting method.
i opted for the camber bolts because i could imagine my alignment guy having to "beat" things into spec. i have been using him for twenty five years and wanted to present him a reasonably professional job.
the bolts were inexpensive (and easier than the slotting).
more secure |removethispart|@ holding the setting, although i'm sure if you tighten the bolts enough.......
i would look at this differently if it was strictly for offroad use- i was able to eyeball my camber adjustment pretty close, i was more surprised by how much change the lift made to the toe.
richard

Slotting the holes in your strut is still reasonably professional, like I said some struts are slotted new out of the box for certain cars, it's not a hack job. Cheaper camber bolts are not made as good as the Moog ones, so stay away from eBay.

I'm ashamed to say I have a dremmel, but don't know what all the bits I have are supposed to be used for. All I ever used is the cut-off wheel. Can someone post a pic of the proper bit to do the carving for this job?

An inexpensive low rpm dremmel may not do the trick, I used an air dremmel with a metal cutting bit. It kind of looks like a pinion gear with a pointy end. The cheap bits don't cut long, they just wear down.
Looks like the cone shaped ones in the bottom row.

You could try H&R Triple C Camber bolts, that's what I used.