Ok, its decided, thought it all out and Jeff's lift bits are best, get me what I want and quality I want for least $
I have now seen the strut mounts and see how the flip works, ok that looks real easy!!!

Most peeps say however that an additonal 3/8" is needed on top of the flip and use a header collector flange to do it.  anyone know the size of those flange's?  I plan to drop into an exaust shop and see if I can figure them out, and maybe still use 2 each strut and some 3/4" spacer pipe welded together to make a 1.5" spacer.  If I need to add the 3/8" to the flip I might as well go that last bit and make the spacers!
Going to go to Pro Comp Rear shocks, they have longer travel and rubber boots for only a few $ each  part number I have verifyed is ES1000 #120510 These shocks are for the Kicks 89-99 2dr and I think 4dr but I was not looking for 4dr so dont hold me to that. They work for stock lift up to 2" lift, they do this by simply being a longer travel shock.  Turns out my clutch is also going, damn.  Anyone ever used the Rhino Pac clutches?  I think unless someone says they are dung thats the way I will go.

Quote from: Dale.E on November 30, 2007, 01:58:07 PM

I am not sure on the flip, I think fabing or buying a spacer is better, tho till I tear it appart to fully see the flip idea in action I guess I cant be sure. 

The flip is the easy part:

Using those spring compressors is ANOTHER matter. (A PITA, which is why I paid my mechanic to do it.)

By the way:

Depending on your new rear replacement shocks, you may or not be able to use the new bolts that come with them--the bolts are too big and there's not enough steel around the truck's mounting holes to drill them out wider. So now, using your old bolts, they may be too SMALLl for the new shocks, and will clank around--not fit snug in there. So you'll need to jerry-rig some little insert sleeves to sit in the shock's mounting hole.

All depend on your truck's year and what shocks you buy, and you won't know until you get to work on it.

Fortunately I have access to a spring compressor as and my mech is a good buddy.  He just adjusted my clutch replaced my thermostat and bled my brakes all for 30$ yesterday at his shop! I regularly get great breaks there.

Most peeps say however that an additonal 3/8" is needed on top of the flip and use a header collector flange to do it.  anyone know the size of those flange's?

with a strut flip, you need something to compensate for the "lip" the stock strut mount has. I've used washers, I think an flange is a better solution (but my stacked washers never let me down either).
As to size? ... I *think* a stock SBC flange is what ya need, but easiest is to pull one of the strut tower strut mounts, go to a NAPA and have them find the one that fits.

  I plan to drop into an exaust shop and see if I can figure them out, and maybe still use 2 each strut and some 3/4" spacer pipe welded together to make a 1.5" spacer.  If I need to add the 3/8" to the flip I might as well go that last bit and make the spacers!

if ya can fab the spacers yourself, I'd say do it.
I expect that an exhaust shop tho will give ya bunches of blank stares.

Turns out my clutch is also going, damn.  Anyone ever used the Rhino Pac clutches?  I think unless someone says they are dung thats the way I will go.

I can;t comment on which clutch ya should get ... there are good aftermarket clutches (centerforce and I think petrowerks has a good one too).

But, if you're going to be dropping the tranny ... go ahead and do tcase gears too. It's spendy ($650 from trailtough), but is by far the best $$$ you will spend when you put it into 4lo. (it's an easy install if you're careful).

I can;t comment on which clutch ya should get ... there are good aftermarket clutches (centerforce and I think petrowerks has a good one too).

But, if you're going to be dropping the tranny ... go ahead and do tcase gears too. It's spendy ($650 from trailtough), but is by far the best $$$ you will spend when you put it into 4lo. (it's an easy install if you're careful).

I want the centerforce but its fair bit more expensive, well over 100$ more.  The RhinoPac appears to be OEM plus a little bit if you get me, so just a bit better than stock, as this is still a light duty toy not going full out 33's etc I think it will do me for many years.

I would love to change the t-gears but damn that is outside the budget, way outside.